sepulchrave

A lot of stupid people with long memories, back when Skoda had no money and was run on a shoestring budget, then VAG took over and pumped in enormous amounts of cash, my Fabia was probably built in 2002, over 20 years ago and it STILL won't rust.

Build quality on Seats is pretty terrible, Skoda is up there with Audi, VW sits in the middle.

Yeah, so the Polo interior won't fit the Fabia, different body shapes and dimensions, the front seats are the only bit that might fit as long as it's a Polo 9N.

Looks good, I particularly like the Elring jizz, good price? Loctite products can be so crazy expensive.

You're not that bad...

It's not automatic, it's reciprocative, even though I know you can't help yourself.

Oh look, here comes the electrical guy with the auto-contradict setting switched on...

In my experience those who admit madness usually aren't, those who don't usually are. A sort of Catch 22 test if you like...

Wow, the blue ones are stage 3, careful!

I've never heard of a 6V engine that DIDN'T eat its exhaust valves, you don't need to replace the sprocket bolt but most people on this forum operate using the precautionary principle because they're old and mad so you might get conflicting advice!

That doesn't make any sense, if someone doesn't know anything then you needn't take any notice of them since it's obviously not an expert opinion. I suspect the auxiliary belt tensioner or one of the auxiliary services driven by the belt, to confirm, simply remove the belt and restart the engine briefly.

Looking at your annotated drawing you have incorrectly labelled a blue and yellow wire as being blue and green.

That's for the passenger side so it won't work. Buy one for the drivers side and you should have no problems.

I'm sorry but he's missed something, the car is 18 years old and unless ALL those hoses have been replaced, there WILL be splits by now.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17550/P1142/004418 Leaking vacuum hoses almost a certainty. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17584/P1176/004470 Confirmation.

Maybe, nonetheless the undertray still has to be removed which can take half an hour to do properly without leaving a trail of smashed plastic and rounded and snapped fasteners littering the floor...

Ok, do this: Find the tiny triangle or mark on the crank sprocket and turn it to one o'clock, now try inserting the cam locking pin, rock the crank back and forth until it goes in, now loosen all three cam locking bolts slightly so you can turn the crank to the correct position and insert the crank locking tool, now tighten the three cam bolts and torque correctly. Whip out the locks and restart the engine. Better?

Be careful what you watch on YouTube, there are (mainly foreign) cretins who don't show the trail of snapped clips, smashed plastics and broken wires they left behind them to bring you the news of how brilliant they are at fixing stuff just to farm paying clicks from amateurs. There are some faults that can be easily fixed if you know exactly where to look and you don't have to guarantee your work or you don't care about other related failures once the owner has driven away after greasing your hairy palm.

https://www.asttools.co.uk/diesel-pumpe duse-commonrail-enginesettinglocking-balancershaft-belt-replacement-ast4840a-vag-1.2-1.4-1.6-1.8-2.0 All VW engines of that era have a tiny triangle mark on the crank sprocket which you will see has been highlighted in white on the photo in the link above, this must line up in the vertical plane of the block which is at about one o'clock due to the slight slant forwards of the engine.

These: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304508652688?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=i5w-gzacSLy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

I Recently had to replace mine and the prices were SO crazy I ended up buying drilled and grooved performance discs for the same price as regular parts. Barmy.

There's no chance of removing, stripping, reconditioning and refitting a mechatronic unit in a couple of hours. Not possible.

It's the same engine so it doesn't really matter. The throttle body is really a means of shutting the engine down cleanly and for providing some engine braking so I think you may be barking up the wrong tree. The most likely source of the hesitation is the EGR valve or perhaps the injectors. I would start by getting the EGR valve and pipework nice and clean then look at the injectors if the issue persists.

It's a Mark 3 if it's a 2019 car so you're in the wrong forum really, perhaps someone there can help.

Ha, you're lucky, that daft silver box strapped to the offside rear window of new Land Rover Defenders is £877 + VAT, it's for putting your muddy boots in while you're outside so they don't go in the car. You only really see them in London 😂