travs

Looks good on the final product 👍🏼 The Superb 280 AWD has 340mm front brakes and 312mm rear. As I understand it, all other Superbs (all FWD and the diesel AWD) have 312mm front discs and 300mm rear. Are you sure yours are 288mm? That seems to be Octavia or Mk2 Superbs from a quick google search. Also, as donor cars go, the Golf Gti performance pack has 340mm. The standard gti has 312mm. The Golf R has 340mm. As will the gti clubsport.

Think I worded that badly. What I meant was that I would need at least 49mm bolts (38mm original bolt length plus 11mm spacer) if I was to accommodate the entire spacer addition. The bolts I got were 50mm so were 1mm longer. They’re also black so more subtle. I’ve also managed to get a set of black 50mm locking wheel nuts too.

And the 280 is 193g/kg so would have been £3,300 first time round! Maybe another reason Skoda has dropped the DNFE from the Skoda Mk4 (so far).

I thought you had 306 already going on your first post. Going from 270 was not as easy. I think you needed something from the dealer - some code I can't think of at the mo. 276 was utter garbage - that was the one with Carplay issues, gps location wildly off, profiles not loading, errors with emergency call etc. etc. Once off that everything else is very undramatic. Thanks for the 332 link - nabbed it and will stick on my mega site. Glad all sorted!

You're right good find - its not in his folder view hence why I missed it. Few options there then!

Any links to mibsolution will be broken as that site seems to be down. That's where everyone was getting them from up until now I think. I've created and uploaded 308 and 330 now so download at your leisure. Trav's Mega site

Firstly, I'm talking rubbish - 332 is the one out a few months ago and that's fine. Literally no difference to 330. But I can't find that in my downloads, I must have deleted it. Anyway, you only need 308 as the springboard to all the rest; and then you can skip 324 (the only other one I can remember between 308 and 330). So I have got 308 but I'm trying to find the link to Vegarz FTP site (rather than just the files) as he has a load in there...ok he doesn't. I'll see if I can setup a mega.nz site and then I'll share it

Actually, you're in luck. A chap on here, @vegarz host some and has this link to v330 from his ftp site. MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P33000P_0330 .zip From this post @Dave77 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523535-mib-3-from-0270-to-0330/#comment-5851709

The link is probably to mibsolution but have just found that its down at the moment, which is not good. Best bet is to trawl through the audio electrics and security forum to see if there is anything there to link to perhaps...

I've got a downloaded zip of 308 and 330 I've just found. I've been running 330 for a few months and its fine; no obvious differences between 306, 308, 324 and 330 from my experience. Not sure what's the best way to send it though

If its 2023 then its not a new vehicle. In which case it looks like its "standard rate of VED" which is £195 from the following article: Autotrader article Quoted as: Tax bands for cars registered on or after 1 April 2017If your car was registered on or after 1 April 2017, you’ll have to pay the first 12 months of tax when your vehicle is first registered. After this, you’ll pay the standard rate of tax every year. Standard rate VED for cars (applicable from second tax year onwards): For the financial year 2025-26, the standard rate applicable to all cars is £195. Drivers of a fully electric or hybrid car will also pay £195 standard tax now as compared to last year when they got a discount. The first year VED is graded on emissions so it would depend on the engine as follows: First-year VED in 2025-26: If this is the first time you’re paying tax on your car, the first-year VED rates will be as follows: • Band A: Cars that produce 0g/km of CO2 will pay £10 in VED • Band B: Cars that produce 1-50g/km of CO2 pay £100 • Band C: Cars that produce 51-75g/km of CO2 pay £130 • Band D: Cars that produce 76-90g/km of CO2 pay £270 • Band E: Cars that produce 91-100g/km of CO2 pay £350 • Band F: Cars that produce 101-110g/km of CO2 pay £390 • Band G: Cars that produce 111-130g/km of CO2 pay £440 • Band H: Cars that produce 131-150g/km of CO2 pay £540 • Band I: Cars that produce 151-170g/km of CO2 pay £1,360 • Band J: Cars that produce 171-190g/km of CO2 pay £2,190 • Band K: Cars that produce 191-225g/km of CO2 pay £3,300 • Band L: Cars that produce 226-255g/km of CO2 pay £4,680 • Band M: Cars that produce anything above 255g/km of CO2 pay £5,490 as the first-year rate

Oh and yes longer bolts for spacers (sorry for missing that earlier). The existing bolts for mine were 38mm long thread so added the 11mm to get 49mm. The ones that I think came with the spacers were 50mm. You definitely don’t want to skimp on that!

Could do - although if the car doesn’t feel down on power when you’re on the move then the rolling road won’t give you much info I don’t think. Have you tried any type of scan to see if there are any fault codes logged?

Sounds plausible - shows how old my understanding is! Good research 👍

Googled and known issues with waterpump or thermostat housing leaks but if the level is correct, it doesn’t sound like you’re losing water. In which case. I’d thinking about thermostat sticking? It should open and close with the temp of the water but if it’s stuck and not opening fully then the water doesn’t get to run through the radiator sufficiently? Just a massive guess though

I have no idea how the pedal box affects the 1.4 compared to the 2.0 280 - I can believe they’re different naturally but if there is one for the engine, then there must be some sort of market for it. If the car is manual, then there’s probably less of an issue - as @leolito said, some of this is down to the DSG box and how the throttle interacts with that. As for the spacers, it’s far more about aesthetics than handling; it’s an argument that a wider stance could equal more lateral grip but (a) it’s largely setup specific and (b) I have no idea if there is reduced grip in other ways. As others have said there are better more directly relevant ways to improve handling such as rear arb, or stiffer springs 👍

Not if it’s 2016 and that wasn’t a typo. Mk3 only came out in 2015 so it’ll be a fairly early one. Easiest way to tell is whether it has the roundel on the boot or SKODA in spaced out lettering. The front and rear lights have also been changed but that’s more subtle. Let us know how you get on 👍🏼

This one (still pinned to the top of the Mk3 thread

FL is facelift - and there were differences between the MIB and things that could be adapted. So you’ve linked to the VCDS page for the facelifted Mk3. There is one for the non-FL too which might help. Pre-FL was to May 2019ish then FL from there. You def have pre-FL version.

Mine was advised (automated email sent out by Skoda) at the 2 year mark - has been done twice now at about 12k miles between both. Had pictures from the first one and that was bad enough.

I think the problem in this thread is that there is a lack of communal info to answer. There are a few specialists who’ll know but if they’re not on here then you may have to wait a bit.

Will be a shame for the Superb forum to see you move to another model. Good to be staying in the fold though 👍

Have you spoken to TVS about this? Could be something they'd look at; in fact you might find a TCU remap would leave the Sport shift points alone. They're looking for optimum shift points, which may already be the case for the car in Sport and not need to be messed with...

I’m in a WhatsApp chat and someone posted the other day about a grey estate tuned one in Gainsborough for sale on FB if you want to add that to the options list. I can look into it if you’re interested. I don’t know anything about about it and the seller but you can do your digging on that if you wanted?

No probs. The pedal box is very noticeable. It has Eco, Sport and Race (with a +variant for each). I put it in Race+ and enjoy the relative hairline trigger throttle. Spacers - this is a bit of a bigger topic, depending on what you want. The obvious point is to push the wheels out closer to the wheel arch body line; so you want to be sure that you don’t foul the inner wheel arch. You also want hubcentric spacers as these are machined to sit on the hub so they’re absolutely true. Non-hubcentric spacers have a small risk of not sitting quite central and causing vibrations but not sure of the reality of this. the other point about spacers is their impact on performance - whether they improve lateral grip by a wider stance, or mess it up by impacting the scrub radius. But these are probably more relevant to tracking than driving on the road. I went with 11mm because running 8” by 19” and 245 tyres which are a little wider than standard. Others have experienced a little rubbing on 15mm at the rear so I just stayed with 11mm all round.