KeithCheetham

Anyone else remember the Peugeot 206 advert featuring an elephant! Peugeot 206 - Elephant Sits On Car - Advert Commercial - Bing video

Bit of heavy reading, unsure which immobiliser you will have. VCDS will not read the instrument console code - I used VAG Pin on my 2008 Mk2 TDI Greenline. Also there may be a requirement to match the keys to the new cluster. Someone may be along soon to clarify actions required - I have yet to swap my cluster, on which the fuel and outside temp gauge do not work so cannot advise actions required. Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki Immobilizer III Immobilizer Swapping (Instrument Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki Immobilizer III Key Matching (Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki Immobilizer IV Immobilizer Swapping (Instrument Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki Immobilizer IV Key Matching - Ross-Tech Wiki

Never removed a bumper - Mk1, Mk2 or Polo 6C

The clue is in the original post - "stopped working" - which indicates they did work so the OP must know how to work a switch.

Just as a final close out, you mentioned coolant loss. Was this through the actual sensor or this still an ongoing issue. Another thing to clarify is you state "the engine started right up" suggesting it would not start prior to the sensor change - is this correct as conflicts with above. This will help people identify if over temperature signal stops engine starting as a failsafe.

No Sep, I always go and buy that inferior quality - in the opinion of some people who do not know what a British Standard and quality control are - cheap diesel from Tesco to get the clubcard points for cost reduction on roadside recovery, which I have needed once in the last 15 years when a gearbox bearing on my 1st 1.4TDI collapsed rendering the car immobile at a far from ideal position on the road over the Pennines. The main reason for the lengthy reply was the usual posting of "my car has an issue" full stop, with no history or facts to allow a purposeful reply. This is not a harsh reply to the OP but I quick outline of what is required for support.

Has the drop in economy been long term or over a short time. What time of year were you "getting" 55mpg, as summer vs winter can have an effect especially if short journeys - reportedly summer and winter grade diesel fuel but unsure if these will give different economy - and is your drive route generally the same. My 1.4 TDI Greenline shows a slight difference in economy through the year which is checked with the brimming/zero trip method, I have always had an issue with water temp readings as viewed through Torque never really being stable or reaching 90 deg,C which a new thermostat has cured so will review over time if this effects economy - 90C reached regularly now even over short journeys as I live on the edge of the Pennines so regular hill climbs. While this will not assist in comparing with previous reported economy via dash, to measure more accurately fill tank to brim, zero trip, use most of fuel in tank, re-fill noting litres to brim again, note distance on trip and re-set. Miles travelled divided by litres added multiply by 4.545 to give mpg. Obviously a few tanks will allow trending. On mine last trip reading 297 miles divided by 28.3 litres fill times 4.545 equals 47.7 mpg.

A Fix It Again Tomorrow is not a good example for similar problems. It is like comparing apples and pears, or in this case peaches and durians.

The fact that there is no lid will negate the foil wrapping - there may be some cool air through the ducting when driving but this will be mixing with warm under bonnet air. The idea of talking to someone like Darkside is to obtain info on any limitations in the induction system based on rolling road experience - as Sep advises you may add un-necessary costs but experience is better than guestimations. If you cannot locate a lid, try duct taping the opening to fully enclose the system and give maximum cool air, maybe the previous owner thought extra induction noise would give another 50BHP at the McDonalds car park bragging fest.

Suggest you talk to someone, such as Darkside Developments, with data to back up claims rather than personal preferences. Level of tune will dictate airflow required. Also assume that no lid on airbox will result in warm air being drawn into filter, rather than cool air through original ducting up to airbox.

Not a problem, it is just that without giving full details such, as the mention of electrical contact cleaner, the average DIYer will not carry out repairs that will have the best opportunity of working, especially as most people think WD40 is the magic wand of all repairs.

Just a simple statement of facts based on RCA methodology I have used onshore/offshore worldwide as an engineer in the pump industry. Unsure if a product containing silicone or PTFE would be suitable in electrical connectors as it may form a minimal non-conductive barrier to metal/metal contact hence the use of an electrical contact cleaner rather than Plusgas in this application - my fibreglass pencil will not access the pins or sockets to give abrasive cleaning.

I have had a problem with my Mk2 Fabia O/S rear lock which would not unlock. Removed inner panel and after feeling around lock it worked. Tried a few times and was intermittent so removed lock and sprayed with Plusgas where accessible - I will not use WD40 having come from heavy industry where this is considered a cheap domestic "do everything badly" product - and re-build. The lock worked but again became intermittent but found wriggling the electrical plug restored operation. I then used an electrical cleaner on the plug and socket and fitted removed a few times after which operation was continual. As this was a rear door I could not carry out a key in lock test, but the fact that you get operation from the internal switch could be that you are giving a signal over a greater length of time than a radio signal may, allowing the signal to operate the lock. As said this is a different scenario but may offer another option. Sep has suggested the best starting point as you can try the lock before fixing to location, which will ensure you are not chasing a ghost. It may also be worth "manipulating" the bellows while using the remote, or inspecting the wires in the bellows to check for broken or damaged wires.

Seps suggestion does not require batteries in a remote as it is a manual operation actioned by twisting a key in a door lock.

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How has he identified this, and can he clarify "weak". Has he also "offered" a guaranteed resolution so you do not end up with him trying different things.

@TSIspirit may not have the skillset or tools to carry out this work himself so component prices - paid or individually charged before any mark-up - will be controlled by the garage carrying out the work for which he may not get a full breakdown from the garage at quote stage. The overall price and a basic understanding of work being carried out should be suitable for all posting respondents to base replies on.

Leaking may have contaminated the shoes, or they may required changing due to wear so it is hard to estimated a cost, plus location in the country and main dealer vs VAG specialist vs local general garage can all effect pricing. Suggest you give price and work scope on here when more details are known as this may assist in getting a general consensus on pricing. The long travel may just have been indicative of adjustment being required as the self adjusters on these cars are not ideal, I often find myself manually adjusting the shoes to get the best pedal travel.

This would suggest that the steering is generally stiff with the slight tyre pressure loss compounding the issue, as putting air in the tyres cannot change steering assistance. The assistance level can be changed through VCDS, but I am wondering if you have no assistance due to component failure as even without PAS steering "weight" changes when the car is rolling. Also, rear tyre pressure has no effect on steering assistance - how much pressure are you loosing, over what period, and which tyres. Have you checked the PAS fluid reservoir level - this is located under the battery resulting in not many people checking. Please clarify the exact issue.

Hence the words "If you are competent" - there are those who can, those keyboard warriors who think they can, and those who cannot. I have done this on both my 1.4 and 1.9 TDI Mk1's so fit into the "who can" category.

Or about £15 to DIY, for a lead and free software, if you are competent and accept it could all go badly wrong.

Generally a limp mode is just a limited revs of about 2500, under which the car performs normally, but you are not able to increase the revs above that point. Splutter suggest something else is going on, hence the "reverse" mod comment and requirement of knowing how it was modded.

What exactly have you done, and where was this method detailed as being suitable. If you "reverse" this method it may fix this, and what are you expecting as the result of a EGR modification. One of the VRS engines has an "anti-shudder" tied to the EGR which can cause further issues if not done correctly.

See comment at bottom - starting point, does car run which I have assumed it does not, others may read it different. Agrre - see comment at bottom I think everyone is going off at tangents, including myself , based on what we perceive to be the current state. My understanding is that the car will not start up. Doe's the engine actually turn over - hopefully not seized up. Agree that this test will remove the level sensor from the possible issues, but probably needs professional intervention to identify leakage through pressurising the cooling system, sniff testing, or possibly identifying signs of leakage from a running warm engine. Your low level issue may have cleared itself, but still having signal latched, through thermal expansion of liquid bringing level up slightly or splashing of water around header. I have found this myself when weather extremely cold. As I was on my way to work and could visually identify level was minimal amount under low level, I did an ignition off restart to clear dash warning after driving 5 minutes and re-filled later in day. Bottom line - does car actually run. @cash3005 suggest starting point as get car scanned with dedicated software such as VCDS possibly by locating holder of software local to yourself listed in posting on here.

As far as I am aware, this header tank sensor is only a warning of low level with no calibrated level resistance so will not cause a failure to start. The 140 degree C in your original post may cause a failure to start as the resistance of the sensor may trigger this action, but you need to have this temp confirmed which Torque will do with the ignition on but the car not running - what programme is reporting this and giving you the temp as not all programmes are fully compatible with the Skoda, and there may be error messages that cannot be reported without a compatible programme. We need to understand the given facts - it looses water but that is an ongoing issue that should not stop starting as theoretically while not sensible it should be possible to start a car with no water in a cooling system - you have stated that the car has water in it which should cover the header tank sensor if filled correctly. By unplugging and re-setting you may have erased codes that a compatible reader may have read from a stored memory, so that will be a backword step as there will be no historical info.