inspectorman

Look for pictures of those part numbers. It looks as if the part is only placed in position from above by gravity, and secured in location by trim clips into other parts of the boot. Work out where those clips are then use a body trim removal tool to release the clip. You may have to remove the lining of the boot, below the shelf support, to gain access to those clips. Take your time and don't force anything. If it won't move, you've missed a clip or there might be a securing screw.

Those supporting pegs appear to be part of the moulding of the parcel shelf support and therefore not individually replaceable. You will need to replace each side. Try looking for 5E6867762 and 5e6867761, maybe. If you dismantle the car first, the part numbers are often visible on the hidden side. İyi şanslar!

I'd forgotten how terrible some of them were. I've even changed carb for a Weber because the fitted Pierburg was so bad. Never went as far as my perfectionist friend who fitted a microswitch and warning light to remind his wife the new (manual ) choke he'd fitted was engaged, though.

Kangarooing not an issue on 2020 Octavias. Seems to have been restricted to earlier cars; and don't forget the anti-stall feature (where the car will increase engine revs slightly if it thinks you're going to stall it) may be confused with kangarooing by some. For those of us who grew up juggling manual chokes with throttle position on cold engines ( and sometimes advance/retard controls as well ) modern systems are a huge improvement. An overnight test drive will answer your question since you will then know without doubt you're starting a cold engine. Try asking the sales person if he / she can demonstrate what version of infotainment software is loaded. A small test as to whether he/she has any clue what they're selling. Buried somewhere down the Car / system setting from memory but may be different in different infotainment setups. Don't forget it is entirely possible to have an up to date infotainment software, but many of the other modules have their own software load which may or may not be properly up to date. These parameters are not easy to access. But a decent service history might give you more confidence everything has been addressed.

Your multimeter - and whatever the ECU is using to measure volts - are not calibrated devices. In addition, you have no idea at what point the ECU is looking to give out a voltage reading. It may even be a compound of four or five different sensors. The main thing is you have a new battery and the charging system appears to be functioning. Cross fingers for the hub magnet / sensor change fixing your warning lights.

You seem to be unlucky - I have never in the past 30 years of Skoda ownership been persuaded to buy the unicorn tears VAG sell for screenwash. But I have mostly stuck with Sonax rather than chopping and changing supplier. Your response depends on how much you value your time. I would be rinsing out the washer bottle with repeated fills of warm water to see if I could improve the flow. Emptying the reservoir should be easy enough with a suitable length of hose to siphon the contents out. Applying back pressure from the hose to the nozzles might also help dislodge anything on the filter. But I am a cheapskate.

Should be fine. Some claim up to 15mm difference is unimportant but I disagree. And it's the easier option - outwards - so no fouling issues. Great price.

H7 or Xenons? Xenons here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_x__hnOffI

"If you are looking at an early Mk4 I don't think it's an unreasonable request to ask a dealer to ensure the firmware versions of problematic models are at a minimum version as part of the deal. If they refuse, then walk away. If they oblige then it's an easy task for them to provide a written document to prove the modules are at the versions they need to be. If it makes the difference between a sale and a 'no sale' I'd think most dealers would find a way to get it done. It's a shame it does effectively come down to this, as people are starting to avoid the earlier cars. I know if I were looking to buy anothe early / first edition Mk4 I'd be insisting the firmware be updated. As others have commented the vehicle mechanically is fine. Good engines, comfortable, economical. All of my issues have been software related - and most other people in this forum too." Absolutely this. I'd even get the VIN and run it through ERWIN as well to see if any outstanding actions are required. It's taken four years and six visits to kill all of the software irritations so far. It would have been three but I couldn't face schlepping up to the dealer at the three year point for the relentless upselling and did the oil and filters myself. Had they been on top of their TPIs I would have been contacted before that.. ""please inform customers immediately/urgently (Bolded and underlined) the customers with the vehicles affected". Fat chance. But - it is a big, comfortable, economical drive with a high spec interior (SEL trim) and it does do what I wanted it to do. So have a chat with the dealer to see if he has any clue about what the problems were, how the dealership coped, and what state the possible purchase is in with regard to those updates. You should be able to work out pretty quickly if you're dealing with a 24 carat bullsh*tter or a genuine guy.

Window switch? Cheap and easy to replace.

Indeed. My post sought to amplfy spcdust's statement about other control modules needing to be updated. I did not claim the infotainment SW version would be changed. Peace and clear skies.

Has this ever been flooded? The corrosion is strong in this one.

Some more information for you. 14 months ago Skoda released a TPI adressing this issue advising that existing customers should be urgently/immediately contacted to have campaign 48S5 carried out on their vehicles. (I leave you to guess whether or not my local dealer did this....) Anyway, you can either check on the Skoda's recalls/campaigns website to see if it's listed , or pay ERWIN 7 euros to get a full breakdown of all sorts of interesting info on your car. But a decent dealer should be aware of this TPI and best of all my dealer didn't charge. They may charge for the update to 1941 or 1969 if they're suitable for your car. The service droid admitted to me that they were delivering 24 plate cars with software faults.... for which no fix was currently available. I bet the new owners are impressed. At least it looks as if there is a fix for your issues.

Given the wipers work when the car is moving / vibrating, I wonder if the bonnet microswitch is playing up? This cuts power to the wipers if the bonnet is open. As far as I know there is no adjustment so replacement is the only answer. Get someone to jiggle down on the bonnet with the car stationary and engine running - and try that.

..and don't forget to tell the dealer to get his finger out and update the mapping database. 5+ years out of date.

Do you not have the interwebs where you live? If it looks like this then your question is answered

The manuals are downloaded from Erwin - 7€ gets you an hour's access to add much as you can. You can also download the exact build spec of your car - this will get you stuff like the important three letter code detailing which brakes you have, for example. Not the most user friendly website but keep clicking.

Looks like the answer is that it comes out with the fascia / bracket that surrounds it.

Is the 250GB USB stick too big? Try with a 32 or 64GB stick.

Ex factory price per tonne gives a price per litre of about 75p for isopropanol. Even cheaper if you buy a lot. Pretty cheap stuff and you will not be putting reagent grade isopropanol into screenwash. Fan jets are pretty cheap and easy to swap. Any loss of function is going to primarily be due to the hardness of the water you are diluting the screenwash with. Nothing in the MSDS sheet is tackling that. The denatonium benzoate - tradename is Bitrex - is deliberately put in to stop the jakeys drinking it. Which points to the ethanol concentration stated in the MSDS being accurate. 10% glycol (ethanediol) will have a mild antifreeze action. I bet the gross margin on the VW screenwash is 80% or more. You would be less out of pocket if you bought a home deionising system to provide really pure water for your screenwash.

Snap. All lighting functional and no warning on the next start. I did have a recent update of something but.. they never say what they're doing.

I don't believe it has a separate part number. Your only option seems to be replacing the whole thing.

I release those tabs with a large screwdriver - just push the clips on the dashboard structure outwards from the lid and wiggle the glovebox past. Then do the other side.

Try 34D864636 - connecting plate for A pillar. Erwin refers to it as "cover strip of wing", and reveals it's only glued in - which explains why yours has buggered off. Scrapyard?