MikeTheThinker

Thanks @MicMac, you have just solved a related problem for me I have several (redundant) gas cylinders that I wish to decapitate and use as open heavyweight drums. I've left them inverted and open to atmosphere for several weeks and had been going to fill them with water before attacking them with a whizzer. Your CO2 suggestion will be so much easier and a great deal less messy!

Here's a LINK to the parts catalogue for your car showing the assorted options for a fuel tank for a 2008 Octy. If you can work out which one is correct for your car you can then go to skoda-parts.com and search on the part number. The detail entry will include a drop-down showing all the Skoda vehicles that use that part.

Take a look at skoda-parts.com, autodoc.com or aliexpress.com. Bit more for shipping but good suppliers.

Plenty of headlamps offered on fleabay. Going rate for new 100-120, used 50-70. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=driver+offside+os+right+2014+skoda+fabia&_sacat=33710

Try this one: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB/Detail?model=Octavia_5E&edition=11-2015&market=&manualLang=en

The bumper differentiations are in the plastics and lighting. The underlying metalwork is common to almost all mk2 Octys with only minor variations as per the parts catalogue. You can see the bumper plastics variants below. Note that there are minor variations by model year and PR codes so do check: 2011 Octavia mk2 1ZB standard front bumper 2011 Octavia mk2 1ZB RS front bumper 2011 Octavia mk2 1ZB Tour front bumper 2011 Octavia mk2 1ZB Scout front bumper

In simple terms; dunno But I'll investigate.

Piccies of the router in situ (yes, it's a very temporary installation whilst the flood work at home gets sorted). The network cable is to be used anon for direct connection to a file server project I'm working on. Router type is a Technicolor DWA0120. BTW Router is upside down for convenience of the wiring but I don't believe that should cause a problem.

As mentioned the router us currently tastefully set on a plate rack by the stairwell so about 2m high. There is almost line of sight (via an open doorway) to the desk where I usually make calls but even if I go upstairs to try for a better signal the location is always extremely precise. If I move the router upstairs that would take it further away from my normal workplace and add 1 or 2 brick walls and a lath and plaster floor to the signal path.

Thanks for the comments. Where I am at the moment is a 1930s brick 2-storey semi with broadband via Shell Energy (don't know who's service they are reselling) and their wifi box - which looks very much like the EE one we had at home. Home is a single floor 1965 detached bungalow. Both locations suffer from borderline mobile signal so I'm relying increasingly on wifi connection for mobile calls. I'm finding the locations for workable signal to be painfully exacting - within 150mm movement - and also variable depending on the weather, phase of the moon, local tide heights, pollen count etc. etc. Holding a mobile conversation - even via WhatsApp - for more than a couple of minutes is akin to a mountain goat's balancing on a rocky point over a chasm - you daren't move a muscle. Wifi for static computer equipment seems fine. I have always tended to move about or wander around when on the phone so the current restrictions are irksome to me but far worse for either myself or my co-conversationalists when trying to maintain a discussion about just when the damp contractors will have signed off on our house post flood or just what is in scope for the kitchen stripout team who want to start work yesterday. Do I sound frustrated? TFRB! To return to our normal service here I've tried moving the wifi router around within reason - it's currently above head height on a plate rail - but it doesn't seem to make much difference overall. I'm using a 5GHz band and a check on wifi signal strength and other local services doesn't indicate overloading or swamping from other consumers. Connection here is fibre to the green box (DSLAM?) and copper for the last few metres. Download speeds run around 40Mb/s. Oh, and mobile service is via EE.

A long shot this but can you find a part number on the dipstick? If so you should be able to check it's the correct one for your motor.

Here's a view of our 2007 1.9tdi mk2 Octy with the plastic bumper removed. Note the bucket is not an original factory fitment

You could use Allen bolts but the torque needed is going to strain a hex socket head a little. I used normal hexagonal head high tensile bolts, which worked fine. As a hand assembler you don't need the millisecond time gains from having a self-centreing machine driven bolt. Do use a good and unworn socket, though, as you may get slip and smear with a cheap or worn socket on a hex head at high torque values.

I appreciate the gesture but there are others on here who are far better informed than I. My forte is finding information, which I do where I can and time permits. I've had many occasions where this forum and it's members' wisdom have helped me out over my 12+ years of membership, so I give back where I can.

Try a breaker. Unless the front end has been stuffed the bumper bar should be fine. You're looking for 1Z0 807 109 C I believe. Piccy HERE. Note that to remove and replace the M6x20 bumper bar mounting bolts (see HERE) you'll need an XZN or triple square bit which are used a lot on VAG cars. I know the parts cat says they're Allen heads but the ones I've seen or removed have all been XZN. The bolts are high tensile and should be replaced and properly torqued up. NB the parts cat links I've used are no different than the ones MicMac gave you, just a different webhost.

This toob shows you where & how ...

IIRC it's the external temperature sensor and it plugs into the back of the bumper bar. I'll try to remember later to look up a diagram for you.

I would suspect wear somewhere (oil pump?) that is masked by the thicker fresh oil but as the oil ages and thins the problem recurs.

Whilst spending time in my temporary home and also back at my real home the mobile signal coverage is best described as "fickle". My phone is set up for wifi calling but that means I seem to have to find an approximately 150mm zone, stand on one leg and don't dare move by more than a few mm or I lose the call. To put it mildly, it's frustrating. And yes, I have put it rather less than mildly on a number of occasions too! A friend wot reckons he noze fings says a Mesh Wifi would be the dog's danglies here, but whilst I've played with wifi repeaters in the past they didn't give me a uniform signal zone as the phone has to swap wifi signals as you move about the house. Any suggestions of what to do (and not to do) out there, please? I'm on a pension so I'm not looking at the gold-plated end of solutions

I tried to see the wheel size but couldn't work it out from your photo. It looks like a 15 or 16" ...

VW Touran I believe.

May be useful to know that the part numbers for an '07 preFL door (diagram HERE) is the same as that for a FL '08 door (HERE), and I suspect the part numbers are consistent for all the mk2 Octys.

From your description it sounds as though your car is a petrol model. What model and what engine?

May I suggest you treat it as you would treat wheel studs/nuts after refitting; check them after a couple of hundred miles for tightness and - especially in this case where there is only one fastener holding things together, and not four or five - continue to check at appropriate intervals. Regardless of your success in managing to overcome the cross thread do keep in mind that the strength of the connection is now and never can be up to the level of the original undamaged part.

Take a look at this LINK for skoda-parts.com which shows the bolt in question plus a list of all Octavias it fits (and it looks like all mk2s).