Breezy_Pete

The VIN may enable me to find the correct wiring/fuse/relay/module info. Different versions of headlights exist.

Unlike what was written in another post, your aim is to push the bottom end of that wedge (where vertical spring is attached) upwards, not down. Use hole in drum and flat blade screwdriver to lever it up while preventing drum rotation.

@brian62c See post/image above your last post in previous page ^.

Green arrow points to it on a UK passenger (left) side, I think. Red ring shows the pivot point that so often seizes.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB

The charger unit is quite likely to be 'water' cooled. Why it would need to be drained to diagnose a fault - as opposed to being replaced - I have no idea though.

If you unplug the 1 wire connector from the switch, is there oil inside it? That's usually a giveaway that the switch is failing. Presumably you mean an external pressure gauge plumbed in in place of the switch? Or?

A good idea I think. Note that there will be items on ebay etc from other brands and models, with the same main VW-group part number (6Q2959802H ?). For full correct functionality in your car, it will be best to obtain one that also matches the part number line that begins SK250.. exactly. Anything that begins VW240..., or VW750... will probably make the window move in opposite direction to your switch commands.

Here's an example with moderate corrosion of the circuit board (the blackened areas amongst the connector pin holes); I've seen much worse. Not really sure why moisture gets in, but it does seem to.

Oh dear, the lock work may have been a mistake. I don't think the door open microswitch is relevant. I think you have probably found the reason for the window problem. If there is green copper corrosion evident on those contacts, there will also be on the mating part on the circuit board, and probably also corrosion of the circuit board itself, under the connector. I will try to find an example photo of this.

Probably, or the wire to the switch is broken. Which engine does you mk2 have?

G62 here, I think: Inadequate cranking speed can inhibit hot start on some diesels, not sure if BKC is one of them, nor the solution.

Does the car have air conditioning? If so it has 2, according to parts catalogue, one identified as G62 (typically located on engine itself on a coolant flange). The other is G83, known as radiator outlet temperature sensor, typically mounted in a connection to the radiator bottom hose. Both are part number 06A919501A. What problem are you trying to solve?

Examine the connector that goes onto the driver's side window motor, looking for corrosion of (any of) the contact surfaces. The lock and unlock signals from the key being turned (and held turned) go via the window motor module. Unlocking is signalled by a microswitch in the lock connecting the yellow/blue wire at pin 3 of the window motor connector to 0V via a 180 Ohm resistor. Locking connects the same wire directly to 0V, via another microswitch. I suspect that a poor/corroded connection may be affecting the window motor's 'view' of these actions.

Do they go back up again when you lock it? (with no sustained holding of the turned key).

FSII part numbers are all here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/6/615/615015 Some 1.2 htp Fabias have 239mm/FSII, others 256mm/FSIII. Without VIN look-up it's not possible to tell which any given HTP has without measuring discs or looking for FSII or FSIII markings on outermost side of calipers. FSIII is relatively prominent/large font compared with FSII.

They are 6mm on the FSII calipers with the 239mm discs.

I've bought and fitted a few secondhand genuine from ebay without any problems. Even just to avoid changing a CV boot!

Next tips for you. If they're anything like the last ones I did, when you come to reassemble it, you'll think "how the 'heck' do I get those two screws back in there and started without cross-threading them.?" (tool access being blind and indirect/angled on mine). The answer I found was to leave the old sump sealant in two rings round where those two screws came through, cleaning off all the rest to apply fresh stuff. The old sealant then holds the screws in position, inserted enough to stay put, ready to carefully insert the tool into and delicately start to engage once the sump is in place. Other good one came from Haynes manual. Cut two long screws off headless, or a length of M6 studding maybe 20mm long. then hacksaw a screwdriver slot in one end of each (for removal). Use these as location pins in two opposite corners of the block to make it easy to put the sump in perfect alignment on the first attempt, with sealant already applied. Fit a few of the other screws and then replace these two with real screws.

That's not ringing a bell as the terrible one, but read reviews in case I'm wrong.

Where did you buy it from? One of the cheapest suppliers has a terrible reputation and reviews. Can't remember the name just now, but I think I'd recognise it if it matches what you say.

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Are you losing any coolant? In round numbers, for every litre of fuel your engine burns, a litre of water is created as a product of the chemical reactions. Most people don't believe this. Petrol and diesel are hydrocarbons; compounds primarily made of hydrogen (H) and carbon (C). When burnt in air they combine with oxygen (O2) to make carbon dioxide (CO2), and water (H2O). The only place they emerge is from the tailpipe. It's usually hot enough that the water part is steam, which you can't see. While the whole exhaust system is warming up, you may see it in the rear view mirror as condensed water vapour. If you do enough short journeys it may build up in the exhaust system as liquid water, which following drivers may see dripping out of your tailpipe as you accelerate away. People who say " Oh yeah, that's just condensation that builds up overnight" have not understood what's really going on.

Yeah those brushes, especially one them, are way too short.

1J0973702A is correct, I believe. May or may not be same as what you've found.