Breezy_Pete

Hello, this sounds like the wire to the starter motor solenoid has broken. Depending on which version of 1.2 engine you have, this may be visible from above if you look vertically downwards to the right of the front of the engine.

No idea, sorry, just going off wiring diagram.

Great shout @xman: the image here shows it quite clearly as just that: Rear Crankshaft Seal with Flange Germany 036103171B (skoda-parts.com)

If main, front interior light is working, it's not a fuse issue. Both fed directly from BCM. The switch, with red/white and brown wires may be the issue instead.

It should be in the position shown here, in the yellow ring Below is an image intended for other purposes originally, which I have edited with red rings to show the holes above the LEDs, one or more of which may have been closed off to mask the emissions light: You might be able to see by lifting the overlay as shown here, but more diagonally, between the fuel gauge needle and speedo needle, or you may have to carefully remeve the speedo needle to get a view of the relevant hole. .

Someone may have obscured it to help when selling it. I found a small ball of black tape above the LED in the plastic bezel within the instrument cluster some time after buying my Polo. Can't remember if I took a photo, will try to find.

Can you not just fit the broken bits of the original, with a little help from sealant to hold together?

The part number I quoted matches what's on the part number label of that one, so yep, should be correct. The number on the black bit is just for the electronic control unit; a subcomponent of the whole.

1K0 614 117 H ABS unit with control unit MK70 TEVES PR:1AC+7K0 according to partslink24

VIN will make it way easier.

Might be worth conferring by PM about the possibility of repair, depending on what price(s) you find.

If you want it to work right, match not only the 6Q1...part number exactly, but also the next line which will be SK250D2DRS on yours, or possibly SK250DDRS.

New-new, or new to you?

Try unplugging the window motor.

Sorry for slow response, partner got hold of me for a succession of "I just need you to..."s The spring does appear to be a match for yours, with red, yellow, yellow paint splodges (you should be able to check that by jacking up that corner of yours for a look). Can't read the label on the shock absorber, so can't tell you anything about that except that yours should be 6Q0413031BL, if original factory fit. That pictured strut is from a car with FS111 brakes (you can see it cast into the outer face of caliper), which yours are not, so the wheel bearing housing which everything bolts up to is different, having integrated brake carriers. Yours has a separate brake carrier part, not interchangeable. Not going to be useful to you.

I will look up the relevant info shortly. Haven't quite made it out of bed yet. 😀 PM me a link to the listing if possible, there may be some useful info in photos.

Zero attempt to turn over can point to a broken wire going (not going) to the starter motor solenoid. This is the thinnest wire going to the starter motor. If wire appears to be intact - even with a gentle pull - unplug it and inspect for corrosion of the connection.

No, can't help more than that, except to say look at the rubber boot over the connector and see that there is a tab on the top surface that I believe should be pushed downwards while pulling the top of the boot away. The connector then has an orange latch that must be rotated a full 90 degrees to release the connector. Wires will need yo be carefully moved out of the way. Hinge screws are a 13mm male hex needing a normal socket to undo. Check strap has a single M8 XZN fastener at one end, to release it. Others will have to guide you on loom extraction.

Quite unlikely to be exactly the same, but quite possibly 'same enough'. Compare visible part number stickers on struts, and coloured paint splodges on springs. If your part numbers or splodges aren't readily visible, send me your VIN and I can look up what your existing part numbers/colours are.

First of the item 34's in the table here then? Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

According to scan it's an AZV code engine, not ASV. If I get a chance this evening I'll view the rest of the scan and circuit diagrams to see if anything leaps off the page as worth investigating. Could be the throttle-body/anti-shudder valve sticking in shut position sometimes, off the top of my head. Ever cleaned that out? On second thoughts, that wouldn't create the same electrical chaos as you're seeing, just the reluctance to start.

Check your oil temperature on arrival at each journey end, if that's something that can be displayed. My commute is similar and it never really quite gets to full operating temperature (coolant or oil), especially in winter. Coolant gauge might show normal temp achieved, but VCDS says different.

Must be someone nearer @jammyb2009, but I'm in OX14 area if you want.

No problem, I'll send you some contact details via private message. 👍