Breezy_Pete

G62 here, I think: Inadequate cranking speed can inhibit hot start on some diesels, not sure if BKC is one of them, nor the solution.

Does the car have air conditioning? If so it has 2, according to parts catalogue, one identified as G62 (typically located on engine itself on a coolant flange). The other is G83, known as radiator outlet temperature sensor, typically mounted in a connection to the radiator bottom hose. Both are part number 06A919501A. What problem are you trying to solve?

Examine the connector that goes onto the driver's side window motor, looking for corrosion of (any of) the contact surfaces. The lock and unlock signals from the key being turned (and held turned) go via the window motor module. Unlocking is signalled by a microswitch in the lock connecting the yellow/blue wire at pin 3 of the window motor connector to 0V via a 180 Ohm resistor. Locking connects the same wire directly to 0V, via another microswitch. I suspect that a poor/corroded connection may be affecting the window motor's 'view' of these actions.

Do they go back up again when you lock it? (with no sustained holding of the turned key).

FSII part numbers are all here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/6/615/615015 Some 1.2 htp Fabias have 239mm/FSII, others 256mm/FSIII. Without VIN look-up it's not possible to tell which any given HTP has without measuring discs or looking for FSII or FSIII markings on outermost side of calipers. FSIII is relatively prominent/large font compared with FSII.

They are 6mm on the FSII calipers with the 239mm discs.

I've bought and fitted a few secondhand genuine from ebay without any problems. Even just to avoid changing a CV boot!

Next tips for you. If they're anything like the last ones I did, when you come to reassemble it, you'll think "how the 'heck' do I get those two screws back in there and started without cross-threading them.?" (tool access being blind and indirect/angled on mine). The answer I found was to leave the old sump sealant in two rings round where those two screws came through, cleaning off all the rest to apply fresh stuff. The old sealant then holds the screws in position, inserted enough to stay put, ready to carefully insert the tool into and delicately start to engage once the sump is in place. Other good one came from Haynes manual. Cut two long screws off headless, or a length of M6 studding maybe 20mm long. then hacksaw a screwdriver slot in one end of each (for removal). Use these as location pins in two opposite corners of the block to make it easy to put the sump in perfect alignment on the first attempt, with sealant already applied. Fit a few of the other screws and then replace these two with real screws.

That's not ringing a bell as the terrible one, but read reviews in case I'm wrong.

Where did you buy it from? One of the cheapest suppliers has a terrible reputation and reviews. Can't remember the name just now, but I think I'd recognise it if it matches what you say.

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Are you losing any coolant? In round numbers, for every litre of fuel your engine burns, a litre of water is created as a product of the chemical reactions. Most people don't believe this. Petrol and diesel are hydrocarbons; compounds primarily made of hydrogen (H) and carbon (C). When burnt in air they combine with oxygen (O2) to make carbon dioxide (CO2), and water (H2O). The only place they emerge is from the tailpipe. It's usually hot enough that the water part is steam, which you can't see. While the whole exhaust system is warming up, you may see it in the rear view mirror as condensed water vapour. If you do enough short journeys it may build up in the exhaust system as liquid water, which following drivers may see dripping out of your tailpipe as you accelerate away. People who say " Oh yeah, that's just condensation that builds up overnight" have not understood what's really going on.

Yeah those brushes, especially one them, are way too short.

1J0973702A is correct, I believe. May or may not be same as what you've found.

Let me see if I can confirm/deny a match via parts catalogue.

Have you tried percussion on the back end of the tool? That can help sometimes. Also worth trying the counterintuitive technique of initially attempting to tighten the screws ( prior to applying torque in the undo direction). Can break corrosion bonds more easily that way.

There will be part numbers moulded into the casings of both plug and socket parts. Both will begin with 6Q0 97..., I think. May need magnification!

Find your engine code, then find your plug options here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/697/9/905/905000

Hello Josh, I've just sent you a Private Message with my number in it. 👍

Should be fine.

Probably also worth replacing the rubber boot complete with mounting frame, as this damage is clear evidence of water ingress into those non-sealed connectors. Refreshingly inexpensive: Skoda Bellows 6Q0959843K - LLLParts

Think it's this, Jonny: Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Flat Contact Housing With<Br>Contact Locking Mechanism 6Q0972716B - LLLParts Repair wire part number handily shown in the table too, by the looks of it.

On the 6Y. series the VW-group part number (6Y2959802A for your car, nothing else will do) and the SK258D4DLS (or whatever) is always on the same label.

Mk1 Fabia can have 6Y2959802A if RHD and all four electric windows, but if used in a LHD Roomster the switches will operate the wrong window. Rather rare anyway. Polo in LHD form will have 6Y2959802A if all four windows are electric, but up/down may be reversed (please check the numbering on yours to confirm). LHD VW Transporter T5 also had 6Y2959802, but never the four electric windows suffix-A version.

Yes, the part numbering of the 6Y... motors is unusual. That bottom line can be very important to avoid LHD (LS)/RHD(RS) mix-ups, and brand/model mismatches. Mk1 Fabia facelift has the only version of this part numbering format which is logical and consistent with VW-group norms. (Where the third digit is 1 for LHD, 2 for RHD; and the 9th digit is 1 for 'fits left side of car' and 2 for right side). All subsequent/other applications have this logic reversed, due to different mounting of motor modules and regulator mechanisms.