Breezy_Pete

It's not visible in your picture, but look in real life, in daylight, to see if there are actually contacts in both sides of that fuse position, that would touch both sides of a fuse if it were there. I think I can see a pair on the right side as pictured, but left end is in shadow. If only one end of the fuse would make contact, you can be very confident that there isn't a fuse missing there. Even if there were, I very much doubt it would have anything to do with a one-sided heating problem.

Check the obvious fuses for the permanent 12V feeds to the window motors. Also the less obvious fuse 11, which is an ignition switched feed to driver's side one. Ideally verify both of those feeds at the motor connectors on driver's side relative to the thick brown earth wire in the 8-way. Ignition switched one is a black/blue wire in the 6-way connector. If that all checks out, which I expect it will, you need to replace or repair the driver's side window motor. Its faultiness is making both windows not work, and C/L not work via key in that door. PM me for repair option if you wish.

FSII pads are very different in shape between inner and outer, part numbers from LLL diagram/table.

@LesCM19 difficult to see what's going on from your pictures, but if I were doing the job I'd make sure to get some correct bits on there and remove a whole lot of rust before fitting any new bits. Especially where pad ears touch stuff.

For FSIII calipers that's true. But... It is an M8 allen head bolt (6mm key reqd) through parallel stainless tubes on FSII. Tubes and bolts (and rubber sleeves) different lengths between upper and lower positions.

Did well.

Oh, previous bodger.

Make sure your hex bit/Allen key engages full depth before applying force to minimise risk of rounding them out.

Haynes isn't helping you here!

It's a 6mm female socket in the end of the guide pin bolts you need 6mm Allen key to undo. Rubber stays where it is. Look at Google images of the bolt part numbers (different lengths, upper and lower).

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/6/615/615015

LLL is handy for catalogue info, to look up the correct part numbers of any mk1 bits https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/

FS II calipers don't have caps over the ends of the slide pin tubes.

Motor will sort itself with normal 1-touch reset.

I think the majority of 5 year olds can probably draw better than me, with a pencil or probably a computer. 😁

😆 I was a bit new to photo editing when I did that!

Even fatter!

I've got a dimensioned sketch somewhere of the carrier rivets, but it's eluding me just now. The steel pins are fat though, maybe as much as 1/8th inch, 3.2mm? I'll keep hunting.

Whereabouts are you?

For your specific one, I would guess it would be near the rear of the car, with just one wire going most of the length of the loom.

No more than the broad hints of which general area of the car as far as I know, e.g. this sort of thing from a randomly picked page of a Citigo WD.

#39, 10 Amps for cars from built May 2011, by the looks of it. #41 before that.

That bubbling is definitely not normal. There should be a trickle of liquid coolant, which speeds up when revved. That was when engine was a operating temperature, was it? I wonder if the water pump might have lost most of its talent for pumping somehow? Any chance the coolant mixture has become too weak through topping up with just water, and you've had some ice form in the system recently, that has then damaged impeller blades of the pump?

Fix it or move it on?

@htm139, yes that generation with that connector arrangement seem to suffer with moisture/condensation ingress and 'greening' of the contact surfaces down there.