Breezy_Pete

Yeti appears to have a quite different fuse panel.

I suspect the situation is the same as described here, with your car having the wires/fuse sockets in the necessary positions 'halfway down' Fuse 40: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520005-👋-how-to-cut-power-to-the-cigarette-lighter-when-the-car-turns-off/?do=findComment&comment=5815406

Check cabin fuse 3 (5 Amp), especially if the car doesn't have A/C.

Cheap and easy fix, fortunately. Your red/green wire may possibly go to a different position (No. 4, I think) than in the video, but hopefully you'll see the same crack problem at its location. Halfords have a selection kit that includes the correct 40 Amp one: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fuses/halfords-assorted-oto-strip-fuses-30>60-amp-fuse133-705310.html

Fit a relay in series with the feed wire to it, with relay coil powered by an ignition switched 12V.

Ta, so check engine bay fuse no. 14 (10 Amp), which supplies the coil of that relay amongst other things. Then cabin fuse no.49 (25 amp) which is power that the relay switches to the fuel pump. If both of those are OK it may be that the engine ECU isn't grounding the other side of the relay coil 'cos it's unhappy with something.

I'll pop back to the circuits for a look-see. Engine code would be handy.

Location 1b houses what's described as 'fuel pump encoder'.

Interesting, thanks for posting. I see from the few other posts by @poloSDI that he/she had a 2006 Polo (for example this one), so if this thread relates to that car you were right, ASY! 😁 A good example of why it's always a good idea to tell the world exactly what car/engine code you are trying to work with when asking for help.

J533 shown like this on the relevant circuit for your build date (12 Oct 2010). J519 is the Onboard supply control unit/vehicle voltage control unit. In some of the later versions it is shown as a separate unit, presumably what your images above show.

Yes, that's why I said it. 😁 If you let me know the VIN of the car, I can find out the date of manufacture and be more certain.

The version of circuit diagram I have suggests that both front and trunk sockets are fed by Fuse 40 (20A), which is permanent 12V. @nickytheshaft do you have a 20A fuse there, or not?

Yeti is probably very different, especially in 4WD version.

Fuse 21 (10A) feeds the brake light switch (NO) for the lamps, on a red/black wire, pin 1 of connector at switch. Feed to bulbs is the black/red on pin 4. This black/red from the downstream side of the NO switch also connects to inputs of ABS module and engine ECU. Fuse 32 (5A) feeds the brake pedal switch (NC), for the engine ECU's info on 'pedal-pressed', on a thinner blue/red wire at pin 2. Connection to engine ECU is via the black/green wire on pin 3. NO = Normally Open (no connection when foot off pedal) NC = Normally Closed (always connected except when pedal is pressed)

Within the vehicle voltage control unit above your clutch pedal, I think. It appears to have Climatic A/C, not Climatronic, judging by the dials and the word under the fan speed knob.

All (except suffix B for some reason) interchangeable according to the list of equivalent part numbers (in grey, below main item title) here: Front Bumper Reinforcement China 6Y0807109C (skoda-parts.com) Parts catalogue currently specifies suffix C for 2007 mk1. Not sure where D comes into it.

Fortunately, due to your post, confusion should be short-lived.

If I were you I'd grab a handle from a mk2 Octy at a scrapyard to try. Or buy a cheap secondhand 1J2... one online. The C81 at the end of the part number is just the colour code; functionally irrelevant.

Perhaps it is on mk3, but @hogun pen llyn asked about a 2012 car, which is maybe a mk2?

For RHD the part number starts 1J2 where LHD would be 1J1... Full current part number is 1J2 823 533C C81 at £21.10 + VAT from Skoda.

Good on you. That and the suffix-A part are interchangeable according to this page: Battery Cover Škoda 6R0915429A (skoda-parts.com)

Not at all, but it would be handy confirmation if there is a part number perhaps on the underside. 👍

Pretty sure Keith and Urban have given the correct info.

Pop the list up here, people will be much better able to offer advice with the additional information.

Yes, good sketch. I would also check for continuity from fan control module to that green plug/socket pair, and from the ECU to there also. (Not just short circuit to earth; fault codes can be misleading in their wording sometimes) Not sure which part of the loom goes to which, but if you leave green plugs mated, you can probably probe into the cable entry at that point. Pin numbers at ECU and FCM are in an earlier post, above.