Breezy_Pete

Interesting one yesterday. A 6Q2937049F unit sent to me for relay replacement. I didn't notice when taking this photograph, but here it is possible in hindsight to see the effect of damaged/cooked relay contacts just from visual (or tactile) inspection. Zoom in on the relay just next to where it says Siemens VDO on the edge of the board. See a raised bump next to the O of Omron? Was much easier to see the damage related to both sets of relay contacts once the relay was extracted: New relays are smooth and flat across that top surface.

Depends on year, engine and equipment options, if you pop up a photo of your panel when you get to it I can tell you what the fitted ones do, probably. Likely to only be a few.

😁 Not visiting fuel pumps as often is about the biggest plus point I can think of just now.

Wire brush? But wait, I seem to remember you bought a pack of four plugs, so you already have a new spare? I meant dates on the coilpacks actually, they almost look too clean to be original.

Can't see any sign of a VW group part number on the old plugs, so won't be factory original. Also they don't look too bad other than a fair amount of gap increase. Clean them up, adjust the gaps to be like the new ones and keep as emergency spares. Any date codes printed on the top face of those coils?

Do you mean the glowplug relay? If so it's in position 9 on the relay panel.

The part number you quoted is correct for brake light switch, see here https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RO/481/9/945/945050 erWin Skoda does not offer part number info by the way. Genuine switch recommended, not vastly expensive (£20.88 retail, inc VAT at Skoda dealership currently), and very straightforward to fit. Just twist and remove old one, twist other way to fit new. Older versions required pedal to be pressed whilst doing so, or some such palaver. Reverse light hack sounds cunning, and not in MOT so could remain indefinitely.

Always in that position, but what's in the way of seeing and touching it varies considerably with engine type.

No worries. I think one of the other threads you posted in may have indicated the specific location of the relevant pin. If not, I can re-find that info for you. I believe it will be possible to get enough access without removing the dial needles and flexible bezel, instead just lifting/bending this bezel out of the way.

Me too. Thanks for posting.

Don't be shy, tell us what it is if you know.

Highly likely to be a cracked solder joint where the green connector is soldered to the instrument cluster circuitboard.

VCDS Lite (freeware) is adequate for your car. Download from ross-tech.com. Needs a KKL/ FTDI cable to interface between car and laptop. Very cheaply available. Test compression of each cylinder before doing much else.

It's all one part, 6Y1959801 for a 2007 RHD mk2 with just front windows electric. Repair probably cheaper than replacement. See link in my signature.

Blower fan thing is normal, it's the car automatically switching to recirculation mode to reduce the chances of breathing your own exhaust. Tends to kill the servo motor eventually so that recirculation doesn't work when you want it to. No idea about the radio. Windows problem is probably your driver's side motor module failing.

Failing in a way that might cause a battery drain. Some reports of scorched connectors if I remember rightly. Possibly water ingress related?

You can download the official workshop manual at erWin Skoda, although you will have to pay (8.4 euro) for an hour's access. Find repair docs in pdf form via the Individual vehicle information tab on the homepage. Download link will not appear until fee ('flat rate') paid. Document D3E802E70C0-1_4_132_kW_TSI_engine.

Message me your VIN please, it will make it quicker and easier to look up.

LLL parts is a handy reference currently for parts info and prices, as they sell parts. Prices may not match Skoda dealership ones exactly (could be less even), but will give an idea. Quite (but not completely) up-to-date compared to many online offerings: VAG - 8Z0601165CZ17 - LLLParts

True

Locations and fuse values, yes. Stickers/cards and owners manuals are all a bit generic to capture the fine detail. Very difficult to say how any given car's fusebox should look precisely, unless the first owner photographed it before anyone had a chance to change anything.

Such noises are often caused by a small stone getting caught between the dust shield and the inner surface of the disc. Generally will fall out again once they've worn down a little.

I think you'll find that brand new pads look like this.

Odd that the card is wrong, despite seeming to be the correct one for the car (no later part number than 1Z0 010 768E exists for a mk2 Octy as far as I can see).

No worries. Rear wiper failures are pretty common.