Breezy_Pete

How many times have you used the car in total since the new Exide battery was fitted? If not many, I still think the car will adapt itself to the new battery in the same way it learnt about the old one. There is/was a member based in Newport with VCDS on the owner's map of this forum, but they haven't been on here for a few years. Nothing to lose by trying to message though: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/profile/158542-greengolf69/

Whereabouts are you @Buttie? I think someone/anyone with VCDS could solve this for you in a short time.

Held in by a single torx screw I believe, but you may well need to remove the metal bracket that screws through the housing next to it (as seen in the close-up photo of the position in the ebay listing linked previously in other thread). How sure are you that it's faulty? My advice would be to disconnect and inspect the connector before anything else, looking for any sign of corrosion on the contacts or damage to the wiring near the cable entry. Do you know the knack of removing these connectors?

Missing a character, a 0 as the third one - I'd expect 5Q0511115AF

First image in this ebay listing here shows it close up. My marked-up screenshot of one of the other images shows the big picture. Just below/next to the radiator hose connection where the pink arrow is.

Sounds like an unusual failure of the cooler. Maybe investigate prices of a secondhand replacement?

1J0 512 109 Not usually fitted in my experience. £4.25 + VAT each from dealers if you do want.

Yeah, I found that out after they sent me the VIN. I suggested the same strategy of looking at blower motor for any telltale brand label. I didn't know the specifics of access though, so thanks for adding.

Not an issue, and I doubt there is such an update available.

I believe it was a feature that was disabled in software. Probably due to customer anxiety about it reading consistently lower than expected (by those who don't understand the planned undercharging).

5 years ago, it seems:

Yep, the thread I saw most recently was coolant inside ECU connector, traced back to wetness inside CTS connection. Mk1 Fabia I'm fairly sure. Maybe 2 or 3 years ago.

Coolant under pressure can get through a faulty coolant temperature sensor that has become porous @J.R.. Thereafter it is confined within the waterproofing of the connector, except via the gaps between the wire strands of the conductors. Wicks along to other end of wire and through into the connected item at t'other end. Reported more than once on here. I'll try to find an example thread tomorrow if I remember.

Coding or not coding a new battery in will have no effect on whether the car will start and run. The rest of it may be down to the start/stop error not being a battery fault, but something else. I hope you didn't pay the Skoda dealer after that nonsense?

Unusual stock update. I have, I think, one of most 6Y1 and 6Y2 types to suit RHD cars available as exchange units (none for all four windows being electric presently though). In addition, I received a unit a while back that suits a Left Hand Drive Mk1 Fabia, so part number 6Y1959801, with SK240DDLS as the last line on part number label. It's a young unit, manufactured in 2017, and looking very clean and tidy. This isn't much use to me so if someone reading has a LHD Fabia (steering wheel on the left), and a need for one of these, please get in touch. Postage/customs will be slow and expensive if you are not UK based, of course. I've done my usual repairs to it as I've had a unit from 2016 arrive non-working not too long ago, so better to pre-empt failure I think. It would physically fit a RHD Polo/Transporter/Mk2 Fabia/Roomster, but at the very least the switches would work the wrong window, and also in some of those applications up would be down and vice versa, I expect.

Partslink24, subscription only. This one's freely available at the moment though, and up-to-date I think - LLLParts LLL let's you enter a VIN, but it doesn't filter the results accordingly.

I think both central locking control unit and the loom junction where this red/yellow wire splits off from are behind the dash near fuseholder, not in the door. Red/yellow is fed directly by the fuse (38) so it might be interesting to measure voltage at both ends of that fuse in situ if it's one of the nice friendly ones with accessible metal contacts on the top surface?

Maybe compare room temperature pin protrusion of the current one with images in listings for new ones? If the current one's pin looks further in, chances are some of the wax has escaped. If not, maybe no need to replace?

Items 24 and 25 here:

This makes good sense. It's more cost, but I wonder if it's worth replacing the thermostat and associated flange while you're at it, to possibly improve head temperatures if the original isn't opening as early/wide as it oughta? The o-ring that seals the flange to the end of the head may have lost its compliance and fail to reseal if it has been removed, which I assume it has?

Regulator and brushpack are all one part I think, can see part of its Bosch part number in your first pic F00M1232...

How many miles on the car? Could just be brushes worn down too far. Brushpack/regulator generally cheaper than a whole alternator. Alt will have part number and rating pretty clearly written on a label on the back end, I'd expect.

Gosh, you're right, I'm the devil.

Sometimes, but also often a different version of the part entirely. I think the suffix E suits D1S xenon headlights, where the no-suffix version appears to be for H7 standard halogens. Judging by what's written on the labels in some of the above photos.

Nice to see you in full 'auto-offence' mode as usual sep.