Breezy_Pete

Dunno, sorry.

Can you message me with the VIN? My way of finding VIN from reg no longer works. I suspect you may have one of the next generation of belt-driven 1.2 TSIs rather than the chain-driven version these guides are showing.

Should be fairly easy. Be careful to pull the old one away from the door squarely once the 3 Tx25 screws are out. They go into plastic pillars which can crack away if the thing gets on the wonk on its way off.

Hi Tom On this generation of window motors there's a tendency for moisture to condense on the circuit board. It collects between a plastic connector body and the surface of the board, and tends to corrode copper tracks and sometimes form new and undesirable connections between pins of the connector and the ground plane. These may vary in their effects with temperature and humidity levels. This type of board damage can be repaired, but takes enough time to make it not really economically sensible whilst secondhand prices are relatively low. Try to match the second line of part number label, probably SK258... in your case, as well as the main VW group part number. Most ebay sellers overgeneralise applicability. Ones with VW240 or VW750 as that second line will be from Polos or T5s, and will send the glass in the opposite direction to switch commands if used in Skodas.

Not sure if you're responding to first set of diagrams or the correct one I just posted? If the former, look at the latter. Simple (red/green) wiring between BCM and release switch, via 10-way connector pair that's physically located behind left D-pillar trim, I believe. Earth side of release switch seems to go to rear wiper earth connection. My money would be firmly on a wire break inside the bellows, double check now that you know to look for the thin red/green, (or the thick earth to rear wiper, brown). Check rear wiper for function/non.

This is where I should have been looking! E234 is the switch you mean. V12 is rear wiper motor module. Brown wires are earths, J519 is BCM.

I'm finding the diagrams a tad confusing actually. The switch I'm looking at may be the wrong one, it may be a feedback switch within the lock motor unit rather than the release switch. F256 here: V53 is lock unit motor. Box with 83 inside it is a feed from fuse 45 Box with 431 in goes here, (box with 441 in), so the earthy side of the luggage compartment light, not the feed. Check fuse 45 if you haven't already. Will try to find release switch if it's a separate entity. J519 is BCM

First wiring diagram I've looked at suggests that the feed for the switch is shared with the luggage compartment light. Is that working at present?

What year is the car?

Have you checked for wire breakage within the bellows where wiring enters the tailgate?

No relays in the circuit. Would need to know when in 2010 it was built to show you the right circuit, but I don't think things changed a lot. I'll message you to start a conversation within which you could share your VIN. That would allow me to find the car's build date and so which circuit is most appropriate. Basically there's an ignition switched 12V and an earth to two of the four connections to the rear wiper. Then there's a pair of inputs that control what it does, wash/wipe or continuous intermittent wiping. These inputs also control the screen washer pump motor, so it would be diagnostically useful to know whether front and rear screen washing are working as expected, or not. The circuit board within the rear wiper motor can show a variety of faults, from burnt out components to cracked solder joints.

I could fix your windows with a repair to the circuitboard of driver's side front motor module. Location of Portugal makes it trickier though. Message me if you want to figure something out.

Might be the anti-shudder valve stuck in closed position. May be able to see, or get phone camera to look, with right angle hose removed.

OK, well cam sensor and charge pressure and EGR solenoid valves are all fed from that fuse 28 10-amper on blue/black wires, so check that the fuse isn't loose, and doesn't have corrosion on its contact blades. Also check your air pipework coming towards engine from airbox. Wiring diagrams show a heater element N79 described as "Optional equipement" [sic] which is a little heater element to prevent freezing of a breather pathway, I believe. These have been known to cause partial or full short circuits. If you find a 2-way connector with blue/black and brown wires, in that area, disconnect it and see if that restores feeds to other items. Take a photo of the location if unsure.

Some info on where to find it here: Engine code and why it's useful to know - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA

Do you happen to know whether your 1.9 is engine code BSW, or BLS? Both were available from May 2009 on, but have different wiring in places.

Have you checked fuse 28 (10 Amp rated)?

Pop the bonnet and look for leaking fuel. No smoking!

It looks a bit like a fuel tank. Expect possible fault codes to do with fuel or EVAP system.

Yeah, well that last reply of mine is some well out of date crap! 😆 Circuit for high level brake light in your car looks like this: I think you said that if you stick 12V up pin 7 of the 10-way it works well, so I have to speculate that either the BCM isn't giving the right output on pin 9 of T73c, or there's something wrong with the wire between there and the 10-way connector on the left in luggage compartment.

I'll check later, but I believe it's usual for all brake lights to be parallel connected off the brake light switch output.

@qwackers98 Please share the VIN with me so that I can look up best wiring info for you. I'll start a private message conversation with you for this purpose. At first glance, the fuse for the brake light switch is no. 13 in under-bonnet fuse box, 7.5A rated.

Yes, worth a look at passenger side too. Wiring diagrams refer to G179 being driver's side, but the connector the wires go through on the schematic is described as "T28a 28-pin connector, on the left A-pillar" which would clearly make sense for a LHD car, but not for a RHD. It could be that the wiring diagrams are just wrong for RHD cars, or it could be that G179 and G180, (its passenger side counterpart) actually do stay in left and right doors irrespective of LHD/RHD. Wire colours from G179 are shown as green going to pin 15 of A-pillar connector and brown going to pin 16. For G180 these are red and brown respectively. It would be handy to get confirmation of what colours you see in those positions on nearside and offside of a RHD vehicle. Pinout of connector shown here, viewed on mating face. The fact that they are at opposite, extreme ends of the long connector perhaps adds to the likelihood of strain and breakage.

Check for broken wires in bellows between A-pillar and driver's door.

Either, as long as it meets the 507 00 spec.