Breezy_Pete

Will try to look up what those other wires do tomorrow some time. The wires break because that section of the door loom has to bend back and forth each time the door opens. Mk1 Fabia had a much better design where the bellows has a vertical dogleg, meaning that there's a combination of movements including twisting, which is less harsh on the wires. Almost everything Skoda have made since then seems to just take the shortest route straight across, and they all seem to suffer from premature loom failure as a result.

The bit of the car that the front door hinges bolt onto.

Check for broken wires in driver's door bellows. Specifically a grey/white wire into pin 5 of the 28-way connector at A-pillar.

Right answer. 🙂

Were the bolts dry or lubed?

You say with engine running it's charging at 14.62V, are you able to check that while on the move? If you really do have a start/stop battery in, and tge car coded correctly for it, that voltage should fluctuate, a lot, while driving.

I'm not convinced that is the original battery. I'll start a private chat with you to request VIN. Cheers.

I'll try to give you some tips on checking cam sensor wiring later, cos that code suggests an electrical/wiring/contact problem more than a mechanical one, I think.

Always try to leave it in a gear that means if the handbrake does slip a little, it turns the engine the normal way, not backwards. So if you're nose down the slope, leave it in 1st. If the engine is turned tge wrong way, it tends to squeeze residual oil out of the hydraulic chain tensioner, making a chain jump more likely when next started.

Message sent.

By the way, you say It does, throughout most of the modules. It's the primary communication system. Pretty much everything "intelligent" except the window motors use CAN to talk to one another. But diagnostics is via K-line, even though CAN wiring is present at the diagnostic socket. Someone with better VCDS knowledge like @PetrolDave may be able to explain that to us.

I'll message you, you'll be able to reply. What you're seeing may exclude a fuse issue, but there's no harm in checking them.

Ask the mechanic what fault codes are triggering the EML. That is crucial information. Is it the 70bhp twin cam HTP, or 60bhp single cam version? Do you park on a slope, and leave it in gear, by any chance?

On that basis I don't see a reason to worry.

Not really sure how you could tell whether fake or real.

@Msmaciejo what made you think that a thread about hardened bolts was a sensible place for your question?

AAA but that's just my eye for detail. It makes the appeal of a secondhand one of that part number quite a bit more... I was thinking of trying to look at the one in our 2012 Roomster, part number 1K8 951 605 B according to partslink24, but superseded by the part number shown above, 1K0951605F. It went off without obvious cause quite recently at home, though it was very windy at the time. Just bought one from Silverlake via ebay for £28 that appears to have a 2024 date code on it. 🙂

Has it ever been mis-fuelled with petrol, to your knowledge? How many miles done to date?

Roomster and mk2 Fabia are electronically the same as mk1 Fabia until about February 2010. VCDS lite was/is able to talk to their diagnostics system over k-line. From March 2010 full VCDS is needed. However, full VCDS will work with all of the above. As mentioned though, to do an autoscan you have to select chassis type (5J) manually. Often, a lack of comms with a module suggests a blown fuse, and ABS has a few. If you wish, I can tell you which fuses to check (will need VIN, message me with it).

@isetta I think for A you would ideally use VCDS to remove the alarm from the Gateway Installation List See https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txzhjGfTqqI For B, with all modules 'asleep' you should see around 20mA (0.02A) of quiescent current. If there's a flashing LED indicating deadlock active, you'll see that 20mA fluctuate up and down with the flashing. To get the car to the state where it is fully asleep you tend to need to leave it for around 30 minutes with no activity.

I'm not sure that there is an obvious fuse for the washer motor, it's fed directly by two pins of the BCM (7 & 8 of the 46-way connector).

Access pump connector (often via full or partial wheel arch liner removal, don't know for your specific model, others can advise). Check for voltage with one or other polarity depending on whether front or rear washing is being commanded by your assistant in cabin, with ignition on. If voltage is present, replace washer pump.

What year is the car Jim? I'll start a PM conversation with you.

Check for corrosion on the earth (brown wire) loom connector contacts or cluster pin that it goes onto, both rear clusters.

I could probably just hold the damper shafts (maybe with an assistant on the molegrips) cos the original dampers sre definitely not being re-used; but I quite like 'neat' workarounds rather than brutal ones.