Breezy_Pete

Message me with your VIN and I will check for you. I think you're right to be concerned though, the third character in the part number being a 1 rather than a 2 makes me suspect LHD.

All CBZB are SOHC, so I don't understand your question.

For your engine, fuse #17, 15 Amp rated is the supply to check with ignition/contact on. I wonder if this has been checked at some time in the diagnosis, and put back in the wrong position?

Photograph the current layout of the fuses before removing any, as a reference in case of "wait, which slot did I pull this one out from?" moments.

Don't have access to circuits right now, but pretty sure one side of the solenoid should have ignition switched 12V on it. Check cabin fuses one by one, especially ones that may be marked ambiguously on the fuse card or in user manual.

Is the indicated mpg anywhere near true? Ours wasn't, it was about 30mpg optimistic

Well worth a look. Access better from beneath, but in my experience, you can get enough space to remove undertray and get enough access to investigate with just one side (UK nearside) of the front of the car jacked up and supported safely on an axle stand. One could possibly improvise by parking with nearside wheels up on a kerb instead.

Let me know how much you'd want for it, if you do decide to offload it.

Had similar on our Roomster with same engine. Gave a different fault code as well though. After a lot of faffing about replacing things that didn't help, it turned out to be oil contamination in the wiring/connectors of the loom for the pre-cat sensor. I'd seen it when changing sensor, but dismissed it as unlikely to cause issues (unlike water in there),;but I was dead wrong. It's a thing, have a look: Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf

I haven't looked at ours up close, but I was more thinking about the bottom edge.

5 wires is correct. It's a so-called wideband sensor that allows for finer control of fuelling than standard 4-wire versions If there's lots of oil about and you find it on the pins of the mating loom connector, make sure it's all cleaned off before fitting new sensor, or it may not work at all, or not for long.

No, it's a 'manicat' which the front pipe bolts to the bottom of. It'll be failed flexi, for sure. Someone at Pirtek might be able to help with the PAS pipe.

Possibly the sealing between windscreen and bodywork?

Sounds almost like immobiliser but can't imagine why that would only affect warm start. I think with low cranking speed it wouldn't start at all. Not sure on that though.

Yep, red light is oil pressure.

For oil pressure warning, disconnect the the single wire plug from the pressure switch and see if it has oil inside it. If it does that's a solid indicator of failed pressure switch.

Low cranking speed can cause failure to start warm in these I think. Try charging the battery and see if that helps. Does the battery light correctly illuminate when you turn on ignition?

Fuse 9 or 11 on battery fuseholder, depending on exact build date. The 5 Amp blade fuse with a thin red/violet wire coming off it. Try removing that the next time you see unexpected fan running.

In that case it has a fan control module hanging off the nearside chassis leg, close to where the bottom hose attaches to the radiator. Your symptoms suggest that a relay within this is sometimes sticking on instead of clicking on and off according to radiator thermoswitch control input. You could prove that this is what's happening by disconnecting the smaller of the two plugs going to it while the fan is running. If fan keeps running, module is faulty. Access isn't super easy though, much better from below with undertray removed. There's a fuse you could remove to demonstrate the same thing, one of the blade fuses in the battery fuseholder. I'll try to find which one. Those blade fuses hide under a plastic cover, to the right of the strip fuses as you look from in front of car. One of the 5 amp ones, from memory.

Does this car have air conditioning?

Apparently this car has a wiper module, rather than a wiper motor. So only three wires, permanent 12V (which ought to be full battery voltage), earth and a LIN data connection to the BCM/onboard supply control unit.

Hi Myles, I have just sent you a message relating to this.

I think the inlet manifold is your vacuum source. Only diesels have tandem pumps as far as I know. I think since the only gas flow here is from servo towards engine, the oil must be brake fluid. Source of that must be master cylinder I reckon.

Rear shocks for this VIN are showing as 5Q0 513 029 KF, which was dropped Sept 1st 2023 and replaced with 5Q0 513 029 RR. RRP is £119.50 + VAT each, from Skoda in UK currently.

Might it be brake fluid rather than engine oil?