Breezy_Pete

Thing is, the car is doing this all on its own. The perceived pressure in the expansion tank had been there at least approx 48 hours since the car was last used. I think bypassing (or just substituting) the intercooler should give a definitive answer one way or the other for that as a cause of the pressure.

I believe it is pressure venting. It seems to vary, sometimes when I check there is very little release, but this evening it seemed quite a lot (but not much coolant loss). It is probably 4 weeks since I last checked, so only a very slight problem currently. Thanks for your interest. I guess just disconnecting both hoses from the intercooler and joining them would make an interesting test.

I like that idea, because it might also explain the lasting pressurisation (addition of gases whilst running). I also have a spare intercooler matrix I could try.

Wow, a quick visit to that photo collection says to me that you have done a lot to your engine! My biggest concern at the moment is a very slow coolant loss that seems to be accompanied by pressurisatuon of the cooling system that is present even when stone cold. That suggests a serious problem to me, which may mean that a replacement "younger mileage" engine may be a better plan than lots of work on this one. (Almost 270k km done).

I thought you mind find that. Safer for the brake assist system with it all taped up anyway though. 🙂 There could be a few other reasons for hesitation, but ignition system is a good thing to rule out relatively cheaply.

Yes, stick the wire through the firewall anywhere you like (extending it if necessary), then find the cable it needs to connect to in the engine bay. I think on my Fabia I sent it through behind the glove box, near the ECU, and spliced it into the relevant wire coming out of ECU over there.

Message me with VIN if you'd like me to look up the part number.

Got round to this today, only a couple of months later. 😁 Tried but failed to get a decent photo of the misalignment of the cam locking tool when crank was pushed hard up against crank locking pin. But it was definitely off, no way the screw was going in. My best guess is that it was about a third of the (M6) screw diameter out, in the retarded cam direction as expected. I think that calculates out at about 4.5° which isn't far from what VCDS is saying. Engine was warm, but not at operating temp. So I think Easter weekend will see me attempt the re-alignment of the cam sprocket as mentioned a few posts above, amongst other jobs. Front right corner is making a squelchy noise recently, which I think may be the shock breathing its last few gasps. I have everything needed to swap that whole strut out, on a much lower mileage wheel bearing housing, so I may aim to get that done too.

Possible attempt to lower window when frosted up? That might pull enough current to pop the fuse .

Rigid plastic hoses can't collapse under vacuum when they get old and perished. They just crack and leak at the terminations instead. ☹️

Clean up those areas, cover with plenty of tape and see if it makes any difference to engine running.

Check the connector contacts from the cabin loom and the pins they go onto on the rear light clusters. You're looking for corrosion on one or more pins, most likely the earth which will be a brown wire usually.

Message me with VIN after 5 and I can check.

I think the aftermarket ones will as you say omit the precat, which only really affects emissions during warm-up, so not essential for MOT. Both sensor bosses are present on this one, if you zoom in on the images. Not recommending this particular one, there are several similar I think. eBay UKBM Catalytic Converter Euro 4 Fits VW Polo Seat Ibiza Sko...Catalytic Converter Euro 4This genuine BM Catalysts part is manufactured to OE specifications and is offered with a 5 year warranty (General wear & tear not covered). If your part goes faulty at any pGenuine parts have different numbers for manual versus automatic versions, possibly a slightly different set of bends near gearbox? I can look up the correct genuine PN for your vehicle if you let me know the VIN.

Ignition on, engine stopped. That is all I'm seeing. No reference to coolant temperature. (My) Memory failure.

I'm not sure. Maybe I can check on my car soon. I think there are some pre-conditions for the adaptation, like perhaps coolant temperature being >80°C, I can check that this morning in a document I have. Have you checked the steel output pipe at the point it discharges under the throttle body? Blockage there may be preventing any EGR flow.

Keep playing with it, sometimes you just need to do something twice!

Your VIN brings up the part number 6Y2 857 502 BL GRU That's "Exterior mirror (aspherical wide angle) (electric adjustment and heated) primed" and was £124.50 + VAT before it was dropped from supply on Sept 1st 2024. ☹️

Ping me your VIN in a private message and I can look it up for you.

Headlamp washer has its own, separate motor, doesn't it?

A dry/cracked solder joint at the instrument cluster connector might give similar symptoms too, I guess?

I had something like this on a Vauxhall once. Turned out that the mechanical arrangement of the sender unit in the tank had become a bit misaligned or bent so that the wiper contact(s) were losing their pressure against the carbon track(s) of the potentiometer in the tank. A bit of gentle bending of a metal rod to improve the contact pressure sorted it. No idea if the physical arrangements were similar enough to what you have for this to be a plausible explanation in this case. Did you take any photos while the pump/gauge sender were outside the tank?

It should be that ringed one in top row I think, check if it has blown. Wiring info said 15A rating, not 10A.

Message me with your VIN and I will check for you. I think you're right to be concerned though, the third character in the part number being a 1 rather than a 2 makes me suspect LHD.

All CBZB are SOHC, so I don't understand your question.