Breezy_Pete

The Skoda emblem has its own number, 06A 103 940K, but the silvery bit it sits in doesn't seem to, even though it comes off easily. I binned mine years ago when it seemed to be rattling. Scrapyard seems the obvious choice to find a cheap replacement.

Eating just now, but it sounds like you need a repair to driver's side motor module. I will message you shortly.

If you mean the round one, there's a rectangular cap, just visible in your pic, that needs to be carefully prised off with a blade, to reveal a screw beneath it.

Only power feed I can spot at a glance is directly from ignition switch, on a pair of black wires, pins 1 and 2 at airbag module, no fuses or relays. Hard to imagine those having a problem without other more dramatic issues presenting themselves. Earth connections are shown as one that's mechanical, through one or more of the mounting fasteners, IIRC, and a couple of others according to fitted equipment on brown wires from pins 46 and others. Pin 15 of the diagnostic (OBDII) connector appears to be marked on the airbag control module wiring page (pin 3 of airbag module connector) as mirroring the ignition supply to the module, so would appear to be an easy way of checking that's getting there. Switch ignition on before hoping to see this!

I'd be really surprised if there was any problem with power to that module. I'll have a look at wiring diagrams in a sec. Neither cruise control nor locking systems have anything to do with that module, as far as I know; although an airbag fault may have impacts on those functions for safety reasons I suppose. Any work done recently anywhere near any airbags? Door loom wiring in bellows checked? Yes, I would say the centre console was already out, and maybe some trim from under steering wheel too, for my pic. Looks like location is identical, as expected.

This generation of motors has a couple of frailties, one of which is moisture/condensation related. This can give all sorts of misbehaviour depending on where the moisture has had its effects. The relays can go bad with contact burnout too. If it reliably clicks its relay when up or down is requested on the switchpack, it could be that the relay contacts that convey power to the motor are somewhat cooked, and making contact but not always a good enough contact to let enough current through to start the motor spinning. Last time I saw this (click but no glass motion) scenario it was an almost severed earth wire in the door loom bellows, but you say you've found no fault there.

Search this phrase, it brings up several options: "vw door won't open". Substituting Skoda for VW may bring up others. One connector or two on window motor?

There are a few videos on YouTube that address this door unopenable situation. Have a look, but I saw one that the algorithm chucked my way just yesterday, so I may be able to get to that easily if the laptop is only 'asleep'.

Is your driver's side motor a 6Y1959801 part number, or the later 6Q1959801F. Former has two connectors, latter just one. Either way, the 'key angle' signal from driver's door lock goes via the window motor, on its way to the central locking control unit. This is so that the windows can be triggered to close when locking (by holding the key turned), or opened when unlocking. I suspect the rear door fault is unrelated to the window problems.

This is on a mk1 Fabia, but you may well find it's in a very similar position. To understand the picture, you have to know that down in the bottom right corner there's just a sliver of the footrest beside the clutch pedal on a manual transmission, RHD car. Photo is taken from driver's footwell looking forward at about a 45 degree angle. Black housing immediately above the airbag ECU contains heater matrix. Spanner is just holding back the carpet and sound insulation beneath it, for access and photo. You can just see two red-painted dome nuts that hold that side of it to the transmission tunnel; probably a third (and maybe a fourth) on the left/other side. Ignore the wiring to the front of it, that's added for another purpose, nothing to do with airbags and no connection to them. Various trim panels may well need to come away before you can see even this much. What's the problem you're trying to solve?

Or carefully de-fluff the edge with scissors and a lighter.

Yep, crank sensor is 'orrible to get to. Even with intake manifold off, it can be problematic if the alloy block has corroded with that white oxide which can tighten the fit of the sensor to the point of being a right struggle to withdraw. Oil pressure switch couldn't be much more accessible though: Can't personally see how it could be relevant though.

That part number shows as a 2kW Valeo part in partslink24. The 2kW Bosch unit listed next in the table is 02M911024X. I don't know if they are interchangeable.

This must be it:

Down between dipstick tube and oil filter housing, I think

Red light is usually/always oil pressure, not level. Different sensor.

All genuine part number info can be found here, especially if you already know disc diameters. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

Yes, that thing. 14-way, not 16 like I said before. Soldering iron and solder sucker, pin by pin. The two 0V pins (leftmost two of your pic, I think) are tricky, as they go onto ground plane without thermal reliefs. I use this type of sucker; fundamentally similar to most designs but the flexible silicone nozzle add-on really helps. Repair of tracking involves peeling away damaged stuff, sometimes quite a lot of ground plane, then repairing any open-circuit tracks, and re-lacquering over the top. Can take a while, hence it often being worth the gamble of replacement by random ebay units.

A few examples

It's possible you have sorted it, but I'd be surprised. Here's a little vid I made recently on getting the thing apart without damage. Without the little 'push' there's a real risk that the brushpack gets pulled out of position as you try to withdraw the motor shaft from the plastic housing, often cracking away bits of carbon brush or even completely dislodging them. 6Q1...F disassembly.mp4 Posting this too late for you but just to spread awareness to others who may read this now or in future. Images of board damage under the connector housing coming up in next post.

Sorry, missed your post this morning, I would've given you some tips on getting things apart without damage. The brush dust can be considerable, but in my experience is never responsible for misbehaviour. You have to desolder the 16-way through hole connector to find the moisture trap I was describing. I'll add a photo or two next time I'm on my laptop.

@goatus the VIN was only to allow me to confirm that you have the later version of 1.2 TSI. You have done that yourself, so I can't really help further, except to say that this later version almost certainly has a different arrangement of PCV-related pipework, valves and connections. So trying to reference the earlier 'how to' threads is unlikely to assist you much.

Please let us know how you get on.

Close enough, I think. SK250... does indeed mean it was originally in a mk2 Fabia. Only thing that may not work perfectly is one touch opening/closing if the glass height is different between these models. Direction of movement will be correct.