Breezy_Pete

No, I think that's untrue. Does the battery light come on when you switch on the ignition? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/401778-battery-light-and-associated-problems/

Generally a fault with the driver's side window motor module. I have a repair service: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/

Are you in the UK?

Yeah rad replacement is quite a faff on these. Be careful of rusted torx head fasteners, there will be some. Time spent cleaning/scaping out their heads so that tools don't slip and round them off will be an excellent investment.

Does the aircon work? All your close-up photos are showing refrigerant pipework associated with the aircon circuit, not engine coolant pipes. Which engine does the car have, please?

Single

Skoda dealership should be able to get the correct part for you.

Genuine are only about £15 and zero faff to install.

I guess there was no sign of water ingress or corrosion in either rear light cluster while you were checking bulbs? Does the high level brake light work OK?

FSIIIs won't be on a Fabia vRS, because on mk1 Fabias those are only used with 256mm discs.

Fuse 28 is probably the one to be checking thoroughly. And make sure fuse 2 is clean and tight in its socket.

They aren't LED brake light bulbs, are they?

Forget that, reading glasses weren't on, one moment while I find which one I really meant please.

Is cabin fuse 25 intact, with clean contacts?

What year is the car please?

For the ABS stuff, check all four tyres are same size. If it's an ASR warning light and it comes on after 10 mins driving, easy problem to solve involving a broken wire or two.

It's not super-clear to me why they need a ban, when they surely have the freedom to just not buy them? Some of the reasoning isn't daft tbh.

I tend to use extremely fine grade wet and dry paper, lubed with contact cleaner, gently. Catch you tomorrow. 🙂

Coding is only needed in terms of configuration details, 2 minute VCDS job. Happy to do that for if you don't have such kit, and maybe you're local-ish?

Nooooooooooooo. Why? If it's just about other commitments, no worries. Talk to me about it tomorrow, please. 🙂

One more question to ponder; how dry versus leaky would you rate the cabin of your car, and how long have you owned it for? I think I've come across a similar problem in a car that had condensation corrosion on some of the relevant pins of the connectors to this module, known in wiring diagrams as the Onboard Supply Control Module, and in VCDS as Central Electronics.

That sounds like you've chosen the most appropriate one. I'm not saying that it is the problem, but from what I skim-read above, I think the other one, above clutch pedal, probably isn't involved as it does Central Locking of all doors except the tailgate, and I think you've described all of those as working OK. Have you looked for wire breakages in any of the door bellows? Or signs of water ingress and corrosion of connector contacts?

What is the part number of the module you've bought? There are two modules that are often confused. One deals with central locking and alarm, the other does lots of other things. You've done a great job of investigating the behaviours and describing your findings, but I think it's too late in the day for me to focus enough to interpret them. Will revisit tomorrow.

You may also need to clean up the connections of the high current connections in the charging circuit. The earth wire from chassis leg to mounting bolt of starter motor (the main engine earth) would be my first suggestion for improving alternator voltage numbers.

I think that confirms the breakage of the DFM wire between alternator and engine ECU.