Breezy_Pete

No, it is far higher than it should be, something closer to 0.02 would be good. No.

Yep, that's the one I was thinking might be absent.

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Check that there's nothing mislocated underneath it, where it's trying to go down into. Airbag control unit only has power when ignition is on, so logically speaking, you don't even need to disconnect the battery; but safer to do so just in case you forget 'not' to switch ignition on.

No problem.

Broken wire in the door bellows, if fuse is good but no 12V at that pin with ignition on. Key in door lack of action does point to a poorly motor module.

Yep that's me, well worth checking for that ignition switched feed, it comes from fuse 11.

I don't understand how that's working, that blue/yellow wire is an input from the lock module. See if you have 12V on pin 2 of the 6-way when ignition is on, black/blue wire. I have a feeling that may be missing.

OK so a later one, I'm a bit confused about which wire you're sticking 12V on to get action, is it on the 8-way or 6-way connector? Wire colour?

What year is the car? Earlier cars had CAN bus to the window motors, later ones only talk to each other by LIN and have no central control. Part numbers of the LIN ones begin 6Y.

Dunno about the rear lock, maybe just another broken wire going to that door?

Can't you just run that wire along the existing loom, out through/near the grommet that takes the loom out of the scuttle into the bay near the ECU, and splice into the fuse wire after following the loom from there? May be hard to do super-neatly, but I'm not that fussy. 😁

If it was me, I'd run in a new wire from the cut stub of the one coming out of pin 6, all the way to near the fuse and splice into the existing wire there too.

I'm confused by that, pin 3 seems to go to the right dipped beam headlight bulb, so shouldn't connect to batt positive? What range is that meter on, in the pic where you're on pin 6, and is the probe definitely getting in there properly, and where's t'other probe?

I'll look up where that pin 3 supply is coming from in a sec, just need to finish making a cuppa.

Not sure if these pics help, took them while in there so they could well be lid features. Wasn't recent so memory is vague. Once the lid is off, each whole connector block is held in by one central T30 torx screw.

There are clips holding each of those lids on, or do you mean the metal panel between scuttle and engine? I'll try to find a pic or two of a lid.

Could also be worth having a good look locally, near battery, to see if there are any areas of wiring abrasion/damage, before getting to the scuttle. Best of luck tomorrow.

Good opportunity to give it all a clean out. Go gently with the trim at the bottom of the windscreen (and getting the wiper arms off come to that, do you have a puller?). That trim comes off upward, perpendicular to the glass, pic:

Just to confirm, fuse 10 on the battery fuseholder, not in the cabin? That wire goes through the firewall behind the wiper motor, bottom left (12 way) connector of the left group (as viewed from engine bay), pin 6. Connector labelled P. Seems much more likely the wire is damaged in the engine bay than the cabin, but worth a look while you've got trim off to see if there's anything obvious near the XS4 connector.

You did reconnect the thin black wire to battery neg first? If so, pull that blade fuse #10 on the battery fuseholder and buzz that wire out to pin 5? No need for ignition to be on, all the battery fuses convey permanent supplies.

See if 5 to 8 measures batt volts (with battery fully connected).

It looks like you're one column out in where the probe is, to me? Try the one to the right of the one that photo shows the probe in.

If you could get test meter probes up the wire entries of the relevant pins with it in-situ, and measure battery voltage, it would suggest both wires are intact. If you don't see batt voltage, try again with a different earth point for the meter, to test whether that skinny earth is at fault. This is the connector at the onboard supply control unit, but it's physically mounted with wires downward, unlike in the image. As we look at it here, pin 1 is top left, descending in columns of 3, so pin 5 is second column middle row, pin 8 third column middle.

That wire ends up at pin 8 of the connector marked XS4 on the onboard supply control unit under the dashboard, above accelerator pedal. Worth also checking a fuse in the battery fuseholder that may be relevant, it is one of the blade fuses to the right of the strip fuses (hiding under a black plastic cover), fuse number 10 (5 amp), this has a wire that ends up at pin 5 of the same connector of that control unit.