Breezy_Pete

See if the oil on the tip of the dipstick smells of petrol. Pressure is generally measured by removing the pressure switch and screwing the test device in there instead. Not sure on pressure criteria, but should be checked with oil at full operating temperature (80+C). See what numbers are at idle and at 2k rpm. Should be able to find specs tomorrow. Could just be a failing pressure switch, look for oil oozing out of/through it. Engine performance problem may be unrelated.

I have a bag of switches and a refurbed latch available, see posts above. PM me.

Find the blue wire that's broken, and rejoin it. Or post the car down to me ..😁

Read the sticker on the boot floor to see what your gearbox code is. Post a photo if unsure, please.

On mk1 Fabia there's a very common fault with some thin wiring that causes the alternator to not start up at low rpm, not seen many references to mk2s suffering the same, but worth checking. It also causes the battery light to not come on with ignition, which is the very easy check for such broken wiring. Without knowing what your mechanic's talking about with the 'electrical switch' I have no idea how you might repair that. I don't know the Stirling area, I'm in Oxfordshire.

If the battery light does not come on with ignition (read linked thread above) there is a problem.

No, I think that's untrue. Does the battery light come on when you switch on the ignition? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/401778-battery-light-and-associated-problems/

Generally a fault with the driver's side window motor module. I have a repair service: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/

Are you in the UK?

Yeah rad replacement is quite a faff on these. Be careful of rusted torx head fasteners, there will be some. Time spent cleaning/scaping out their heads so that tools don't slip and round them off will be an excellent investment.

Does the aircon work? All your close-up photos are showing refrigerant pipework associated with the aircon circuit, not engine coolant pipes. Which engine does the car have, please?

Single

Skoda dealership should be able to get the correct part for you.

Genuine are only about £15 and zero faff to install.

I guess there was no sign of water ingress or corrosion in either rear light cluster while you were checking bulbs? Does the high level brake light work OK?

FSIIIs won't be on a Fabia vRS, because on mk1 Fabias those are only used with 256mm discs.

Fuse 28 is probably the one to be checking thoroughly. And make sure fuse 2 is clean and tight in its socket.

They aren't LED brake light bulbs, are they?

Forget that, reading glasses weren't on, one moment while I find which one I really meant please.

Is cabin fuse 25 intact, with clean contacts?

What year is the car please?

For the ABS stuff, check all four tyres are same size. If it's an ASR warning light and it comes on after 10 mins driving, easy problem to solve involving a broken wire or two.

It's not super-clear to me why they need a ban, when they surely have the freedom to just not buy them? Some of the reasoning isn't daft tbh.

I tend to use extremely fine grade wet and dry paper, lubed with contact cleaner, gently. Catch you tomorrow. 🙂

Coding is only needed in terms of configuration details, 2 minute VCDS job. Happy to do that for if you don't have such kit, and maybe you're local-ish?