Breezy_Pete

I don't think vcds will have any visibility of these modules. Bellows wiring breaks are extremely common in the mk2 Fabia, start with visual inspection on both sides.

Fair enough, but he probably just needs one M8 bolt of the right length.

@Carlston that autodoc kit looks completely wrong judging by the picture. Wouldn't trust it at all. And you gave him all the part numbers I had already, except the bolts he actually needed. But still better than sep's effort. 😛

If you do opt for replacement, remove old one(s) then run the pump for a sec before fitting new, in case there's any bits of debris loitering in the last bit of the pipework.

That diagram is just showing how to remove them, not an adjustment. In my experience replacement every few years is worthwhile. Should only be a few quid each, e.g. Skoda Water Jet 5J0955985 - LLLParts

239mm set-up shown here: floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com) Two different length Allen-head (6mm tool) bolts going through two different length stainless tubes, no rubber/plastic closure caps on this version, unfortunately. Part numbers for all the bits including pads shown there.

The car won't have any of the wiring to work window or lock, I think.

45mm/1.75". You should learn to work these parts catalogues mate, it's not that hard. Just look at the coupling pieces ("dual clip") for the relevant engine code: exhausty bits for a 2001 fabia

Did you try this?

Hello David, yes I could repair yours or send you out an exchange unit, whichever suits you best. I'll send you a private message imminently.

Yes, it could go to te fusebox, but I found it easier just to splice it into the appropriate wire at the brake switch connector. The other wire can go direct to the correct engine ECU pin, but won't be long enough as supplied, cos it'll only be intended to reach to the inside bulkhead connector. Nothing to stop you extending it though.

Check cabin fuse 3 is intact first, it should be a 7.5A rated one; then with ignition on, measure between pins 1 (black/yellow wire) and 2 (brown wire) of the sensor connector hoping to see 12V. That, if seen, confirms that 2 of the 3 wires are intact. The third one from pin 3 ends up at the instrument cluster, pin 11 of the 32-way connector there.

Do you have access to a multimeter?

The splits usually can be found in the areas where the hard plastic pipe attaches to other things like the non-return valve. Areas marked in pink, feel all the way round them with fingertips as well as checking visually.

@wodgey The wire from the fuel pump relay (position 4 in the relay holder) to the engine ECU starts at a contact labelled 4 or 86 under the relay, and goes via an inaccessible connector deep behind the dash to pin number 80 of the 81-way connector at the engine ECU. The wire is blue with red stripe all the way. Here's a view of what I guess is the mating face of the ECU connector in question, with pin 80 marked in red:

Perfect, just the CBZ was needed, thanks. There's apparently a four-way connector pair 'front left of engine compartment', through which this wire passes, so that's probably the next place to look after ensuring that the alternator connector is fully 'home'/clicked into engagement. The other wire from the alternator connector also goes to this four-way, along with two wires from the control solenoid of the aircon compressor, below the alternator. From that four way interconnect it's continuous all the way into the control unit in the cabin from which it starts. Left in the description of location is left as viewed sitting in the driver's seat facing forward, so right as you look into the engine bay from in front of the car. I haven't spotted such a connector in the photos above, it may be that you need to look from under the car to see it, possibly.

A fault, I think. The recirculation motor/potentiometer modules are renowned for failing on pretty much every mk1.

Seen first on clubgti.com, seemed too handy not to propagate further: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/38656239/audi-vw-renoks/5 Could be handy if you break one, and want to replace, but can't see a part number on it.

Hello Matt, yes still fixing these. It tends to make little or no difference to postage costs whether you send the whole motor module or just the Temic bit. I'll send you a PM to discuss further. 🙂

It's the one going to that alternator connector, so follow that back wherever it goes. If you can tell me your engine code I may be able to find some info about intermediate connectors it may pass through, using the wiring diagrams.

Dunno on your engine, often in front right or rear left corner of engine head, but not always. Generally the only single-wire electrical plug to be found. If you can tell me your engine code (letters ahead of engine number on V5c) I may be able to find the location out (usually just by scrutinising images in ebay listings of that engine code).

Different pipe ODs. vRS is 55mm, other diesel engines (and 2.0 petrol) 50mm; other petrol engines are either 45mm or 38mm. Adaptor pieces could be used instead of the usual parallel dual-sleeve connections though, to adapt diameters.

Oh, I'm mildly surprised. I fixed a Golf with same problem yesterday by changing the equivalent fuse, which by coincidence was top right, after I started checking them from bottom left... 😆

Have you checked cabin fuse #22? Top right corner, 7.5A rated, I think.

First of the item 13s here I think Kharl, M8x48 long. drive shaft; for manual gearbox Fabia (FAB) 2002 year Skoda EUROPA 407020 (7zap.com) According to this listing they are quite a high strength rating, 12.9 Bolt, propshaft flange N91108201 TOPRAN, FEBI BILSTEIN, MAPCO OE part number in original quality (onlinecarparts.co.uk). Not sure if genuine ones are same. XZN head fitting.