Breezy_Pete

What year is the car?

Wiring isn't shown as going through the door connectors, so definitely in the main bit of cabin somewhere. @varooom would be my goto guy for this type of research.

Wiring diagrams show G179 as external to the airbag ECU, but unhelpfully don't give any clue about location. Has a two-pin connector.

This is the thread that I was referring to, and that @Warrior193 very kindly helped us find: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/493951-help-69-plate-10-tsi-se-manual-clutch-gone-after-2721-miles/

There's a similar story on here somewhere where the OP got an independent auto engineer/inspector involved, who was able to demonstrate that Skoda's diagnosis was nothing better than a guess. When further disassembly/inspection occurred it was shown to be plain wrong, and a faulty from manufacture clutch was shown as the most likely cause. That's all from memory, I'll try to find the thread for you tomorrow if no-one else does first.

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I don't know much about crankshafts, which image has five main bearings?

Could also be AH. I just can't see dots where dots should be to make that last letter read as an M?

Click on the various engines here for comparisons of bore size etc. Specs for all Skoda Fabia I versions (ultimatespecs.com)

You'd definitely not want that one if it is really an -AN, that could be quite different.

To my eyes the last letter of the part number engraving might be an N rather than an M though? AUDI A3 VW GOLF PASSAT 1.6 TDI INLET INTAKE MANIFOLD COOLER 04L129766AM | eBay ?

If the part number is the same, it's the same irrespective of brand.

Yes, thank you @varooom. I was able to confirm using OEMwolf.com that B>N, N>Q, H>Q, and strangely unalphabetically S>Q (where '>' is intended to mean was replaced by). But that site isn't up to date enough to cope beyond Q.

@varooom may be kind enough to confirm/deny whether those other numbers from the skodaparts page are all supersedences of one another.

Searching for that suffix Q part on Skoda Parts.com gives the following part numbers listed along the top the page Škoda part number: 04L 129 766 BA 04L 129 766 AM 04L 129 766 B 04L 129 766 H 04L 129 766 N 04L 129 766 Q 04L 129 766 S Intake Manifold Škoda 04L129766BA (skoda-parts.com) I think that indicates that all are interchangeable. What's the part number of the one currently on the car?

Try removing cabin fuse 35 and see if it still goes off.

It wasn't me asking that, scroll back up...😆

Nice when something goes smoothly without a hitch. Slightly makes up for all the times when a job takes three times longer than expected. 😁

Seems like it may be easier on LHD, without the pollen filter housing there. Please let us know @d3ntin.

If the 30A fuse in the battery fuse holder is bringing 12V on a red wire to pin 2 of the thermoswitch connector, and you are linking pins 1 and 2 of that connector with a thick wire, then both fans should start on their slow speed. The wiring is the only other thing involved. Direct power path highlighted by added red lines:

Judging by this page, I'd say it doesn't. Scroll down about 3/4 of the way and see that there are two diagrams titled 'exhaust gas recirculation' but only for diesel engines. LLLParts

Items 27/28/31 show the location of V68 LLLParts It doesn't move between LHD and RHD cars, there's just different stuff outside it in each case, pollen filter on RHD, possibly less stuff on LHD, please let us know. RHD unit (possibly from Polo, can't remember). So picture where the pollen/cabin filter housing would be on a mirror-image of your car, and look just a little closer to the centreline than that.

Liking your style there. 👍

The two front door control modules have CAN bus communication, but the rear door modules are only connected to their same-side front door partners by LIN bus, not to the CAN system. So if a front door controller falls over due to e.g. that big fat red wire breaking, the same-side rear door unit won't be controllable from the front because it won't be getting instructions over the LIN wire.

Another possibility is a cracked solder joint on the connector from the instrument cluster circuit board. Try giving the whole area a bit of a shake by hitting with your palm on top of the dashboard, see if the reading on the fuel gauge changes.