Breezy_Pete

9mm 12-point socket is what you need for the sensor screw, I think. Not sure whether a deep-reach or normal one is better, never done it.

Black/blue feed, brown/red earth.

Are the reverse lights working? Will look at wiring for a 2012 mk2 now.

Sounds a lot like a sticking heater flap motor, V68. VCDS scan of the HVAC module will probably show a confirmation fault code. VCDS Lite, the freeware version is adequate when used with a suitable cheap cable.

All sorted then. Gotta be something else worth spending that money on, surely?

Any skoda dealer should be able to get one if you're determined not to attempt to mend what you have. Why are you not trying to get the spark-plug-changing dealer to fix it for free? Seems almost undeniable that they broke it?

Is this what yours looks like? 03C103474AD VENT HOSE New genuine part | Deutsche Parts (deutsche-parts.co.uk)

Diagrams in ETKA are often mildly misleading/overgeneralised, if that's what you're looking at?

A bit of warm air might be all you need to get the remnants of the old grommet out? £6.41 plus a bit of postage from lll, or about the same from a Skoda dealer for the grommet, gotta be worth trying, no? Whole item 8 assembly appears to be £82 by comparison.

Look about 3/4 of the way down this page And this chain is not simple, but from VAGa - Skoda Fabia RS, 1.4 liters., 2012 on drive2

Hmm, I wonder if the broken off piece is part of an adaptor, the rest having hit the road or undertray. The parts diagram refers to an 8A item that isn't listed in the table, but might be the last '8' - 03c103638b One of the google images for that number could possibly be some of what's stuck in yours.

Actually, looking at your second image, it appears that the hose is OK, but the plastic nipple it attaches to has broken off inside it? What is/was that nipple part of?

Part of item 8 here, it seems LLLParts

I have no further ideas then, except to recheck all connections using the diagram that varooom kindly supplied to you.

This problem may be caused by corrosion of connections, I think. I may have read about this somewhere on this forum, but not 100% sure This page shows the brake switch as item 10, described as a 'repair kit'. brake fluid - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) If you poke that part number into oemwolf.com, it shows as superseded to 5G0698459, which on this page helpfully has a list of kit contents.,VAG 5G0698459 repair set for brakelight sensor Audi, Seat, Škoda, Volkswagen genuine OEM part kit (oemwolf.com) Note there is a four-pin connector included. Is there any sign of corrosion on the pins of the original switch, if you still have it?

There are more than this, and most of those will only be powered under certain conditions. The only one that you should always see 12V at is pin 92. This feed should also be found at the connection '85' for relay no. 1 in the e-box. All the other feeds are dependent on ignition switch position and other factors. The feed from cabin fuse 1 to pin 87 of engine ECU should only be powered when ignition is on. The connection between ECU pin 69 and terminal '86' of the relay no. 1 must be pulled to ground/0V by the ECU to energise the main relay (no.1) which then feeds power to pins 3, 5 and 6 via fuse 13, which I expect are the ones you have probed?

Double check cabin fusebox fuse 1 (10A), and under-bonnet fuses 10 (5A) and 13 (30A). Which pin/pins at the ECU connector did you find lack of power at?

I'm confident enough to say that test isn't worth doing, actually. The car can't tell the difference between an unconnected trailer light board and a blown indicator bulb unless you tell it there may be a trailer connected via that coding change.

I don't think it would do that double speed thing, but try it by taking out one bulb from trailer board.

Engine ECU pin number 21 in the info I'm looking at, not sure why the disagreement with your diagram.

PM me if you'd like to consider a repair by post. I'd replace the original wiring in the 'flex zone' with extra-flexible ones of appropriate gauge, solder joined and sleeved beyond, in the door area. In terms of part number, there are usually enough variants to make scrutiny of the part number label on your existing loom preferable.

It's the other (white/green) wire you need to check, the one to the engine ECU from pin 1 of the brake switch connector, I think. If you can confirm your engine code I can tell you which engine ECU pin it goes to.

It's a requirement in theory, either an auditory or visual confirmation, so you can tell if one's failed. In practice, I don't think they test towing electrics of the 7-pin variety at MOT IIRC. Won't work if it's an LED lightboard btw, unless you add some resistors in parallel to make them look to the control unit like proper bulbs.

Perfect. If you look in the owners manual you'll see there's a second warning light that should work when you have a tow connected, giving a visual confirmation that the trailer indicators are working (when they are). Should be a dead easy VCDS recode of the onboard supply control unit to enable it. You just add 1 to the existing coding.

Which ECU pin number did you follow to the brake switch connector? Wire colour?