Breezy_Pete

Grab a photo of the part number label while you're in there. Do you still have the original module?

They should work once ignition is on too (even without key in lock action), hence the suggestion to check that fuse 11 feed.

That should be right then, unless someone had fitted a wrong part number into the donor car. See edit to my previous post, about checking the fuse 11 supply makes it to the motor module. If the bellows at the a-pillar has been on and off a lot, there may have been water damage to the connectors that it waterproofs, if it no longer fits snugly?

Fuse 11 is also for electric windows in the later version that you have where there are just two connectors going onto the drivers side motor module. It would be good to check that the (ignition on) supply from that fuse is making it to the motor module (black/blue wire on pin 2 of the 6-way connector at the module) Was the secondhand drivers side module you fitted an identical part number? Do you have a photo of the part number label from it?

Check fuse 11, top row, right hand one of the four.

Check the ABS fuses in the cabin, and battery-top fuseholders as a first step. Cabin fuse No. 25; Battery fusebox: strip fuse No. 6 and blade fuse (No. 7) just to the right of strip fuse 6 under a plastic cover.

Do it, it's the right one on your car.

Inlet manifold to head o-ring seals? Did you try your butane near that junction?

Does this BKY have an EGR valve? I seem to remember some do, some don't.

In that case I'd expect fuse 54 to be the alarm horn, if it is a 15 Amp one.

RHD fusebox is a rotated version of that, like this: I would think removing fuse 46 may well solve your problem, and probably easier to do than snipping any wires. Doubt it will have any other consequences. Edit: Does the car have start/stop? If it does not, it might be fuse 54 you need to remove, if it is 15 Amp fuse? Confusing mismatch between what that site you've quoted shows and what the official wiring info says about fuses 46 and 54.

Yes, well near the expansion tank black lump with in and out hoses, with two wires; and yes there's a hose from the crank breather module on the back of the block that comes up to the inlet mani just under TB.

EVAP purge valve hose to manifold and PCV valve ouput hose are other possible sources of airleaks.

You know that will make the brake pedal require a hell of a lot more pushing to get any braking effect, I presume.

Have you checked the brake servo vacuum hose and all its connections for cracks and leaks?

Overheating caused by corrosion of the cable crimp, I think. Does it work when you bypass the fuse as shown in last three photos? The cable next to it, which feeds the cabin fusebox, looks bad too, maybe water has been getting there somehow? Is the cover missing?

I cannot see enough detail from that photo, needs a better lit, better focussed shot please.

No.

I don't think the relay would affect the washers? Have you checked fuse 15? See here: Wipers not working?? - Read this first!! - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA Looks like your issue, see PastyBoy's post in there, quarter of the way down page 1. 👍

Pretty sure I've read this one-sided heat loss as a symptom of the silikat matrix blockage several times on here. Maybe the structure and connections of the matrix are such that when it starts to block up, one lateral side is more affected than the other.

Yes all the fuses in the battery fuseholder are permanent 12Vs. Check the blade fuses just to the right of the strip fuses, under a black plastic cover. Many folk don't realise they are there. Numbers 7 and 9 (or possibly 10 if built late in 2005) are relevant. Fuse 7 (25Amp) has a red/green wire going from it to ABS module pin 25, and Fuse 9 (or 10) has a red/white going to ABS pin 7. That one should be a 10 Amp fuse. Wouldn't be surprised if you find one of those blown, and possibly a corresponding wire damaged/shorting.

The strip fuses crack, they don't blow, so I doubt the wire replacement is causing any trouble. Remind me what year the car is please, on phone so no sigs/profile. There may well be another battery-top fuse.

Yes, if you know where to physically find it. It won't cause any other problems, I don't think. There may be a specific fuse you could remove as an alternative, I can look up which one if you like?

Part number for switch pack assuming manual rear windows appears to be 1J3959857A. About £50 retail for genuine now sadly: 1J3 959 857 - LLLParts With the part number you may find aftermarket ones that are perfectly adequate though.

Last time I bought a genuine switch pack it was somewhere around £35 I think, so not hideously pricey. I have a repair service for window motor modules, so would have given you some cash for your old one, to fix up and use as an exchange unit.