Breezy_Pete

I'd have no concerns driving around with them. They won't get worse now you've got proper plastic caps on. As long as they accept a pump, no problem. 🙂

Any Skoda dealership should be able to get one for you. I can find the part number for you next time I get up. Have you still got the old motor?

Fuse 15 worth checking, if I remember correctly.

Bought from local Skoda dealership before proper diagnosis, and now not required. Still fully wrapped in original bubblewrap packaging. As per second item 2 here: LLLParts Bulky so collection only, or organise your own courier to collect. Located in Oxfordshire postcode area OX14 £80, no offers. That's almost 25% less than retail price. Move fast if interested, I can probably return it if no takers.

Good morning and welcome.

Attached is the indicator chip datasheet. I think it has current sensing of its outputs which is how it knows if something's changed. If you really want everything to work nicely with your LEDs you probably should measure each channel's output current with the correct bulbs in, then add parallel resistors between each output and earth to get the same currents with your LEDs in place. The outputs from the onboard supply control unit going to right and left indicators are from connector XS6 pin 14 and pin 16 respectively. Each feeds its front, side and rear indicator bulb. Indicator chip BTS540L.pdf

As far as I recall, the flashing frequency on this car isn't actually changed by a bulb being busted, it does make the telltale LED in the cluster flash faster (I think?) and the ticking noise double-speed to alert you though. The indicators are all powered by one two-channel solid-state device on the PCB of the onboard supply control unit. All three bulbs on each side are wired in parallel with each other, so the overall parallel resistance of each three is what is monitored. I have to agree that is an utterly pointless mod though.

Agree with the above. I just looked up the relevant ETKA page via LLL parts and the (genuine, new) prices of the alternators had me gasping a bit! There's one or two part numbers that go into 4 figures. 😲 LLLParts

Ah, a petrol, I see that now I'm on a computer and can see the OP's signature. In which case there are a few more emission types tested at MOT. But still plenty of emissions-related equipment that can go faulty, as well as other engine faults that might put on that same light (which is the EML as far as MOT is concerned) without necessarily having major impact on the tailpipe emissions. Needs scanning to identify why the light is currently on.

Is this a 1.2 diesel? If so, the only emission tested by MOT is particulates/smoke. There are various other components of the tailpipe emissions which are controlled by design, and presence and good function of various parts like EGR systems. (But invisible literally and to the diesel MOT test) The fault light you're seeing indicates a fault with such a system. You may have heard of NOx emissions in the context of modern German diesels, that's one of the poisonous tailpipe gases that may be badly affected by such malfunctioning systems.

I'd expect that to be the main engine-to-chassis earth connection, so highly relevant. Localised to starter body area for minimum resistance when cranking.

Replace 2, keep the non-failed original onboard so you can swap it in for any other one that fails in future.

It's a typo. No more, no less. Find some joy in your lives guys.

Should be able to see it (or not if not fitted) via BCM measuring blocks I think, as it wires into that.

In the UK it tends to make a difference.

There's no decimal point though. Specsavers for who?

PAS stuff may be interchangeable, doubt the other bits are.

Door bellows wiring seems to be one of the most conspicuous(ly common) mk2 failure points. Definitely worth inspecting for any door electrics faults. There's some valve in the PCV system on the 1.2 TSI that's made of something too fragile, but pretty well regarded engine generally. 🙂 What year is the 16v?

Good plan. Personally I find a flat screwdriver that just fits widthways under the latch is best for releasing, then twisted gently through a small angle to lift the latch in a very controllable, limited way. Minimises danger of breaking it.

Are you following the suggestion about pushing the connector body firmly onto the switch before trying to release the latch, that's the 'secret'? Look up youtube videos on "VW connector removal" if you can't picture what I mean.

Uncover the wires by cutting back tape and conduit where my blue arrow points, that's where you need to find the wires that need reconnecting to the switch connector.

It's discussed a lot, but no one ever presents any evidence of what these changes to the 'charging profile' might be, or definition of what eventually might mean (i.e. it could be 5 drive cycles, it might be 50, or some other number, it's all guesswork).

Ah, were those pictures not your car? Yes, access may well be easier from below. It might be easiest for you to buy a replacement connector with wire tails pre-fitted, then join them into the loom.

Just here where my blue arrow points to:

The other end of the blue wire is in the black tubing surely?