Breezy_Pete

I haven't had to do a V68 but the other one v154 isn't horrible to do. It nearly is though, and really not worth doing in my opinion unless stuck recirculating or you drive past a pig farm regularly. Pretty sure there's a how-to for v68 change on 9N polo somewhere online, and it must be largely the same. Located somewhere to the right of the glovebox on RHD. Access and visibility are the issues, I think.

Check whether or not your outside temperature readout is giving a sensible number, that and the fuel gauge sender share a voltage feed.

Any Skoda dealership parts department.

I think it might be something much less worrying, yes. Really needs further code-reading to see what's still coming up. Does it feel like it's running on only 2 cylinders, or just badly but evenly? I'd minimise driving of it as much as possible. Best to avoid telling garages what you think may be wrong, as they'll tend to just fix/replace that thing even if they don't for one second think that's really the problem. See if anyone on here is close to you for possible code-reading help:

Thank you toot for attempting to bring the topic back from wherever the hell it was. If anyone wishes to discuss what I wrote further please send me a PM, if you can. 🙂

Move on kids, I have. 😁

Only 18 teeth on the crank sprocket though, so 20 degrees of mistiming with a jump. I think that would be valve soup, wouldn't it?

That's good news indeed. Harder to judge from the photos than up close I expect, but first impression of the both-together photo is that they are correctly in step. It's possible that the crank pulley is one tooth out relative to both, but I think that would cause such a big mis-correlation that the engine wouldn't run. Do you have any warning lights on currently? .

The slots should be parallel to one another whatever angle the engine is at. No need to turn it to see.

OK, that's the twin cam version. On the end of the engine nearest the battery there are a couple of removable covers that reveal some features on the end of the cams when opened. These features are slot-like and should be parallel to one another if all is well with the inter-cam chain timing. They are used to fit timing tools such as these into during chain work: If they aren't at parallel angles, some slip has occurred, and you should probably get the garage to inspect for valve damage. The covers to remove for inspection:

I'd guess that it came to be as a theory like this: One or two people fitted blanking plates at the top end of the pipe, because it's easier than bottom end or both. In doing so, they moved about the flexi section of the poor old pipe beyond its aged range of movement and without noticing cracked it. They then developed an exhaust leak as the crack widened. Try the vac pipe, see how it goes. I can't see blanking plate(s) having any advantage over a closed valve.

That would make no sense at all with this engine. It's a major operation to replace either, and only worth considering really if no other engine damage has occurred. However, this is all very premature because until more evidence is acquired, chain slip isn't diagnosed, it's just guessed.

Doesn't make any sense to me.

Never mind wyx, I'll pop you on my ignore list and trouble you no further. G'night and goodbye.

I see the point of car forums as helping others to fix their cars. I see using them to try to promote political or ideological stances as misuse, basically.

As I said, I don't need you to agree.

Just seemed (to me) hypocritical (of you) to bang on about 'FUD' stuff whilst trying constantly to influence people towards EVs and away from conventional cars. I don't need you or root to agree. 😁

Not helpful.

No, hence the 60/70 bhp question. Mk1s were 54 and 64bhp. Not sure if the single cam ones continued into face-lift mk2s though.

So it's OK to try to make everyone feel guilty who may have recently purchased or be planning to purchase a conventionally powered car, if it's a tit for tat attack on another poster?

Can you post a picture of the engine? Both the variants I referred to are 1198cc. Are the spark plugs vertical in the middle of the top of the engine, or sticking out the front at a steep angle? Reason for it being important is that one type tends to suffer much more damage than the other if the chain slips.

Is this a single cam 60bhp engine or dual cam 70bhp?

Possible chain slip. Check alignment of cams under the covers at the gearbox end.

What, like this?

That's not ideal.