Breezy_Pete

It's a fair point with limited/individual disconnections, but at the level of 'all strip fuses and blade fuses removed from battery fusebox', none of the car's controllers can possibly be awake. The only thing left with any power is the starter motor, as far as I can see.

Get well soon mate. I had my first cold in 2.5 years last week, still not 100%. Again, be very careful if disconnecting the main positive feed to the starter motor, that one is not fused at all, it's direct to the positive battery clamp, so it's the most dangerous one to have waving about loose unless battery negative clamp is off the battery post.

Be very careful if you have the battery connected still when you do this. Although there is a fuse as mentioned above, it's a high rating (150 or 175A) so you'll still get an alarming spark if you short it to anything earthed.

No, that's the starter motor feed. Alternator cable goes to the first of the strip fuses, number 1.

There are a bunch of strip fuses, and some blade fuses in the fuse tray above the battery. The blade fuses hide under a plastic cover. Try those, one by one.

Ah, OK. Polo 6R is a generation newer than what I've ever looked at.

My interpretation of that part of the wiring diagram is that the solid black part shown will be present regardless of A/C or no A/C, but the dotted section from the firewall connector (T11b/9) onward to the HVAC unit (T16c/3)* will not be fitted. I was unaware that there was more than one variety of Climatic system, I've never seen a wiring diagram with more than one. *False assumption about where F268 is. Apparently only present in 'heating only' variants of the system.

Yep, mine has it, including little hidey/storage compartment that I found for the first time this summer. 😁

If that light doesn't come on with ignition, that is further evidence of a problem with the alternator excitation circuit. Search for posts where @RicardoM or others have given info about this circuit. I don't have any wiring diagrams for Felicia, unfortunately.

Disconnect it, turn ignition on, measure voltage at end of wire relative to alternator body/battery negative.

Alternator is not starting up. Check that green wire, it is probably not giving the alternator the 'wake up' current it needs.

It will be hanging from the left chassis leg, just near the bottom corner of the radiator. Follow the wiring back from the fan motor.

On a recent car with battery management module it's a bad idea to remove batteries to charge them, because that added charge will confuse the system by being unaccounted for.

Measure voltage directly at the alternator with engine running. Red meter probe on output connection, black meter probe on alternator body.

You did release the carbon brushes as you installed the new regulator? if you did, my next suspicion would be a breakage or bad contact of that green wire.

These two pages show which engine codes each cam suits: Camshaft EngineTeam 038109101AH (skoda-parts.com) Camshaft (camshaft) 1.9TDI EngineTeam 038109101R (skoda-parts.com)

This is what they say in the bit I cropped out of the previous screenshot in order to get the rest of the text in. Probably does have height advantage too, I guess.

Gravity, oil flow and big old drain holes from head to sump.

DOHC. This is from an SSP for a very different engine, but I expect the arrangement is about the same mechanically:

Ah! good spot.

@Crasher, please let us know where it came from; it sounds as though you have seen this happen before? Roller rocker arms have needle bearings I think, but this maybe looks too big to be one of those? @Pmnr121 could you take a pic with it sitting along a ruler?

Bulb tell me the unit rate is going up 20% and the standing charge by a penny a day. If the government give me £67 a month for the next six months I'm better off than I was, cos that's much more than 20% of what I'm currently paying. This makes no sense.

I don't know what it is, but I suspect the engine needs it. Would advise not driving it until identified/replaced.

I don't really like that sort of bodgy wiring into fuse terminals, Difficult to see what's been done there cos of the red tape, but fuse 26 is the one for rear wiper. That is usually an ignition switched supply. People generally use these slightly less bodgy breakout fuseholders for such additions. You retain the original fuse for the original consumer and add another suitable for the added item(s). There may not be sufficient headroom to get the fusebox cover back on though, others with mk2s may be able to comment.