Breezy_Pete

Try this one instead: main key with variable code transponder - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com)

This page should have the info you need. Pay close attention to the column where left, right and LHD/RHD are differentiated. For each side of each LHD/RHD version there are three options, non-central locking, C/L with key only, and radio remote C/L. LLLParts

Fuse #40, 40 Amp rated I think? Is it a diesel?, if so there may be a relay involved too.

10 Amp seems too small to be the correct fuse. I'll see if I can find which is the right one, and its rating.

Try cleaning the contacts of the coin cell holder in the fob.

Consider using my repair service, just £50. Send me a message if interested. Details in the Entrepreneurs section.

I can't really see how this relates to your pics, but apparently the relay of interest will be in location 10b as shown here:

I'm just looking into the relay possibility. I have found a circuit, but not yet found the relay location on the relay panel. Bear with me please. Might be a much quicker/cheaper/easier thing to try first.

Might be worth a read of this thread, seems quite possible that you have a similar stalk contact burnout type failure. Fabia II Bandaid solution to High Beam failure TAKE2 - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

Better known as the 'dryer'. Absorbs any water that gets into the system. Tubular feature on one edge of condenser. Not as fictional as the clutch.

5Q0 819 669 is the VW group part number written on that filter.

Why post all that ^, it's not the slightest use to the OP, nor anyone else?

The cigarette lighter socket is permanently powered, the car can never cut power to it.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488477-boot-light-problems-with-fabia-mk-1-estate

As suggested by varooom, inspect wiring in the door hinge area for breakages, if none are found, the door lock module probably needs replacement. The microswitch in the tailgate latch fitting that works the boot light is probably worn out, I will try to find a thread where this is discussed, and link to it.

What year is the car? Sounds a bit like the anti-pinch feature is being falsely triggered. This can happen if there's extra resistance to upward motion. Try this experiment: With window halfway open, gently pull upwards on the glass between finger and thumb, at two places, nearest the back edge, and towards the front of the pane. See if there's more movement at one end than the other. If there is, this may suggest the plastic fitting that attaches glass to window mechanism is broken at that end. This results in the glass skewing a bit on the way up, because one and only one of the lifting points is doing all the lifting.

If the comms wire from the same-side front door module is broken, it might show as 'no communication with rear left door module' or similar, not sure TBH. It's a thin yellow/purple wire I think, but it's a while since I looked at the circuit, and a bit late for me to focus now.

You may well be able to switch the feature off with VCDS.

I don't think that would help you, as the switch shorts those two wires when the door is open, not when it's closed. Maybe the microswitch is stuck in the actuated/pressed state; have you tried giving the area a clout to try to free it?

The NSR or both NSF and NSR? There's a crucial comms wire that goes (only) from front door module to rear one on same side, if that's busted in either bellows the rear module won't get the info it needs (Rear door modules are not on any CAN bus). If the front door is most used of the two on NS, then that's the most likely place for a breakage of this wire. Hence why I suggested checking that one first, well upthread. You said before that there's no power going to the door, but if you've not removed the door card I can't see how you've checked this? Just by assumption because things aren't working? A wire breakage anywhere other than the door bellows seems massively unlikely compared to where it flexes in the bellows.

Mini-update time. Added some more tags to hopefully make this easier to get to from the wider web. Stock levels of exchange units are healthy, of the types listed a few posts above. 👍 If you think you might have an affected car, but you're not sure whether it will have a motor module type covered by these repairs, please send me a message with VIN and I'll do my best to work out which exact module you will have fitted, without you having to get in behind the door-card to see or confirm. Can't remember if I've mentioned this before, but if you're new to this forum and don't know how to send a (PM) private message, try this. Join the forum (not too tricky nor time consuming, and free!), then: On a computer, mouse over the photo of me and Biscuit on the left there, and you'll see a pop-up with options at the bottom including Message, give that a click. On a phone, just tap on my username or photo and it'll take you to my profile which has a button with a picture of an envelope near the top of the page. Lastly, if you're within what you consider a reasonable travelling distance of Radley, Oxfordshire and want help with removal/installation of a motor module, I may be able to assist with, at reasonable cost.

@SuperbTWM deserves the thanks more than I do, for putting us on the right track. 🙂

With windows half open, try gently pulling upwards at back and front edge of each pane Wondering if one of the clips that hold glass to regulator mechanism is bust, meaning the glass skews a bit on its way up, offering more resistance to the motor which is then stalling out. You might find there's a lot more movement where there's a broken clip. Whereabouts are you?

I looked at wiring info yesterday and there seems to be two power feeds to each rear door, but they share fuses, so if offside rear door is working OK then fuses must be OK too. Both are red wires with another colour tracer. Maybe the brown earth wire to NSR door module is bust somewhere. See if you see power on either of those red wires if you put your meter earth on some other earthed bit of chassis?

Go to the link in SuperbTWM's post.