Breezy_Pete

Open circuit problem sounds like a blown fuse.

No, I asked if mixing was how you were proposing to get 40-50% ethanol fuel.

No I haven't tried it, and I have no idea how far you could go. Do the experiment yourself.

There are two main types of oxygen/lambda sensor, one with just four wires which is what yours has both pre- and post cat, then there are wideband ones with five or six wires that are a bit more controllable, giving engine management more flexibilty. Earlier versions of the 1.2 12-valve had these more expensive 'better' sensors, but since about 2006 just the cheaper four-wire ones.

Yep, no wideband on a 2009 BZG. I guess you are proposing to mix partial refills of E85 and E10 or E5 to get your suggested 40-50% ethanol. But why not just try it with increasing levels of fill/mix with E85 and E10 or whatever the standard petrol is there? If it starts running badly you'll know you've pushed too far in the direction of ethanol. Carry a spare 5 litre can of 'good' petrol so you can adjust the mix at the roadside.

I finally got around to checking this just now. with 13.8V main supply to the module, I see almost exactly 13V at the two switch input pins (left window switch on pin 1 of 6-way, right window sw on pin 7 of the 8-way). When I lift either switch partially up the voltage at the corresponding pin goes to 6.8V approx, when pulled fully up as far as it goes, 3.3V. When pressing down on each switch I see 1.3V at the corresponding pin, when fully down it is 0V. These voltages will scale with the supply voltage, so will all be higher with engine running than just with ignition on, except for the 0V one.

People will post whatever they wish to. Has battery charging come up yet, I don't read everyone's posts? 😁

I think they are blind holes, and that's why the threads don't get corroded (no water access in from far end). Aftermarket versions, but a couple of examples in ebay listings: NEW SEAT IBIZA MK3/MK4 FRONT LEFT STEERING KNUCKLE WHEEL BEARING HUB (W/CARRIER) 5060952960659 | eBay (256mm type) NEW SEAT IBIZA MK3/MK4 FRONT PASSENGER SIDE HUB STEERING KNUCKLE (288MM DISC) 5060952963810 | eBay Bit harder to see on this one, but a genuine one i'd've thought judging by condition: 2010 SKODA FABIA 1.2L Petrol PASSENGER FRONT HUB 6Q0407255S | eBay

Top right of your post there are three dots, click on that within half an hour of posting and you'll see an edit option. The half hour is a guess, it may be more/less time. It's infinite if you have Freedom membership.

Pay the small sum required to stick it in the classified section.

The wiring diagram for driver's side looks like this. J386 is the motor module. Below it in the diagram is the switch panel. F220 is the lock module. J393 is the central convenience control unit. The fault on a mk1 Fabia is almost always inside J386.

Hello Hotno987, yes I am. I'll send you a private message to discuss further. I see you have Oxfordshire as location so we can possibly avoid posting things to and fro. Talk to you shortly.

Have you checked fuse 49?

When you unlock with key in drivers door lock, do the other doors all unlock, or just that door? Is there a keyhole in passenger front door? If so, see if C/L operates if you lock or unlock with key in there.

No, just the two. In that case maybe the shroud is missing over the intake orifice. Not sure mk2 is the same as mk1, will have a look on parts diagram next time I get up.

Leakage through the cabin air intake can only really happen if the scuttle drains are blocked.

I will check later on my test rig, but I think it's probably normal for you to see the voltages that you do there, until you start pushing/pulling the switches, at which point the voltages will decrease to either zero, or somewhere in between 11V and zero depending on which way and how far the switches are moved. You will probably find that the middle one and possibly the lower one of the three pins that you have measured at zero volts show a voltage if you put the car's lights on. That's the feed for the LED lighting of the switch panel. I've yet to see any motor modules that have gone intermittent because of brush/commutator problems. It's no doubt possible, but the usual failure is with the electronics module above the motor.

10mm length on the parts diagrams, could well be tapped deep enough for longer though. The heads usually corrode to buggery and might need chiselling round, but the threads are usually clean within the bearing carrier, in my limited experience.

Do you know whether it was manufactured before or after May 2004? According to wiring diagrams that's when the change from one to the other connector happened. Not sure if that does or doesn't coincide with when the Facelift happened?

This.

I see a positive in you being able to tell yourself and us what is really going on. I think taking steps is better than not taking steps, whatever direction they seem to be going at the time. Feel free to pop round and shoot me for exceeding decent limits of psychobabble.🙂

Someone needs to take a legal 'baseball bat' to this whole "never seen this before" horse****. So utterly disgraceful it needs punishing.

MOT isn't interested in the backplates, they can be completely absent from that point of view. Retaining screws are an M6 thread, 10 or 12mm long will be plenty I think.

@Tech1e is what I said above wrong then? I'm confused.