Breezy_Pete

Not sure if these pics help, took them while in there so they could well be lid features. Wasn't recent so memory is vague. Once the lid is off, each whole connector block is held in by one central T30 torx screw.

There are clips holding each of those lids on, or do you mean the metal panel between scuttle and engine? I'll try to find a pic or two of a lid.

Could also be worth having a good look locally, near battery, to see if there are any areas of wiring abrasion/damage, before getting to the scuttle. Best of luck tomorrow.

Good opportunity to give it all a clean out. Go gently with the trim at the bottom of the windscreen (and getting the wiper arms off come to that, do you have a puller?). That trim comes off upward, perpendicular to the glass, pic:

Just to confirm, fuse 10 on the battery fuseholder, not in the cabin? That wire goes through the firewall behind the wiper motor, bottom left (12 way) connector of the left group (as viewed from engine bay), pin 6. Connector labelled P. Seems much more likely the wire is damaged in the engine bay than the cabin, but worth a look while you've got trim off to see if there's anything obvious near the XS4 connector.

You did reconnect the thin black wire to battery neg first? If so, pull that blade fuse #10 on the battery fuseholder and buzz that wire out to pin 5? No need for ignition to be on, all the battery fuses convey permanent supplies.

See if 5 to 8 measures batt volts (with battery fully connected).

It looks like you're one column out in where the probe is, to me? Try the one to the right of the one that photo shows the probe in.

If you could get test meter probes up the wire entries of the relevant pins with it in-situ, and measure battery voltage, it would suggest both wires are intact. If you don't see batt voltage, try again with a different earth point for the meter, to test whether that skinny earth is at fault. This is the connector at the onboard supply control unit, but it's physically mounted with wires downward, unlike in the image. As we look at it here, pin 1 is top left, descending in columns of 3, so pin 5 is second column middle row, pin 8 third column middle.

That wire ends up at pin 8 of the connector marked XS4 on the onboard supply control unit under the dashboard, above accelerator pedal. Worth also checking a fuse in the battery fuseholder that may be relevant, it is one of the blade fuses to the right of the strip fuses (hiding under a black plastic cover), fuse number 10 (5 amp), this has a wire that ends up at pin 5 of the same connector of that control unit.

You've posted in the mk1 Fabia section, is that deliberate? If so, what year is the Fabia, please?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then reconnecting?

I think he probably meant USB lead, as shown alongside it in the Gendan pic?

Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Body > Body Work > Front door, central locking > Front door > Removing and installing the door (workshop-manuals.com) If you try this, make sure you have an assistant available, doors are heavy, and aligning during refitting is much easier if someone else has the weight.

I've not had hands on/in situ experience of repair on a mk2, but on a mk1 it's surprisingly easy to take the whole door off, improving access enormously. I think from what I've read, you can get the loom out via door car off, plus removing the loudspeaker? Others with hands-on experience will be able to better advise.

I misread your initial post and thought the motor was working one way (but not the other). It uses the same two wires for each direction, just by swapping the polarity, so I thought they must be OK. But re-reading, I see that the only time the driver's door is locking or unlocking is when the key is doing it directly, mechanically. Not 100% sure but that may be the only broken wire, and things should work as intended once repaired. Fingers crossed.

There might be more than one bust wire, I guess. Photos would help, if you can get that connector latch open for better view/access (be brave).

Are you sure it isn't pin 2? Re-reading your symptoms, the wire that's not working is one of the motor power wires which is purple/yellow, and comes from/goes to pin 2 of the connector.

That'll be the one. The wiring diagrams are sometimes confusing with wire colours on LHD vs RHD mirrored things like door looms. Pin number says it's the right wire.

I think that rules out a problem with the lock module, and points towards the wire I mentioned above, the thin green/yellow one between a-pillar connector and door. Goes to pin 3 of the a-pillar connector. This is how the numbering goes, looking at the mating face of the door loom plug:

The signal from the lock unit which says "key is turned" goes via the electric window motor module. What I've suggested is a way to establish if that signal is actually getting out of the lock module as far as the window motor module. If it does cause the window to open, turn the key the other way and check that it also closes. This isn't the same signal as I was referring to in my second post, that one goes directly to the central convenience module. Yep. Photograph any broken wires for identification purposes, please. Very common fault on mk2 Fabia.

There's a thin green/yellow wire in the bundle that goes between door and A-pillar that conveys the lock's status to the central convenience unit; I wonder if that's broken? Have you done any inspection of these wires?

The receiver for the key fob signal is central, in the central convenience control unit behind the dash, the locks are dumb electromechanical devices - just a motor and a few microswitches. Does the car have electric windows? If so, can you get them to go down by turning and holding the key turned clockwise in the door lock starting with a locked door?

Nice work, and love the scrawping word, perfect.

I suspect something is draining the battery when not in use, and there may also be a bad connection somewhere in the charging circuit. When the car is idling, and you're seeing only 13v or so across the battery, try measuring voltage between the body of the alternator (scratch through any oxide on the surface) and battery negative terminal. If there's any significant voltage there, it would tend to support the earlier comment about a poor earth connection. (By measuring the voltage drop between those points, you're indirectly measuring the resistance of the earth wiring and its connection points; a low voltage means low resistance connectivity, and vice versa). If there's hardly any difference indicated by that measurement, try instead between alternator output post (where the thick wire attaches) and battery positive terminal, for the other half of the wiring. Let us know those two numbers, as that will check both current paths (out and back to the alternator) and also, by adding all the numbers up, what the actual output voltage is at the alternator at idle.