Breezy_Pete

I'd say you need the kufatec wire and the original wire to both connect to the brake pedal switch connector. That's being used as the fused power source from fuse 28. Neither cruise nor original function of the brake pedal switch will work if the blue/red isn't connected.

Whichever type you buy, check whether or not the gaskets that seal it against the engine block are included. Would be annoying to assume they are, and then have to shop again if they aren't.

Interesting how different the aftermarket versus genuine price is on the full housings! Seems to have gone through a fair few revisions too, looking at the part numbers listed in grey near the top: Oil Filter Holder European Union 03L115389H (skoda-parts.com)

I think some recent versions have two EGR systems, high and low pressure. Lucky owners...😆

If the EGR was fed from post-DPF they wouldn't clog up with with soot like they do, I think? Not sure on such a recent engine/car to be honest.

I'm reasonably sure that any time the engine cuts out, for whatever reason, the battery light comes on. So blaming the alternator or battery seems to be excessively hasty guesses as to what may be amiss. Have you changed the crank sensor yet?

I reckon they might cave in quite quickly. 🤞

TKW describes how to have both brake and accelerator active quite early on page 1.

Have you tried just disconnecting (and blocking) the vac hose from the top of the EGR valve? That'll stop the valve ever opening. Not sure if it'll give a fault light on a 2002 ATD, easy to find out.

Cheers. 👍

Do you mind me asking if you have anything to declare in relation to electricity generation or supply? There's no denying that with high adoption of EVs and a charging/discharging system controllable centrally the National Grid and electricity generation/supply in general gets an incredible benefit.

Parts diagram and item numbers here: LLLParts Looking up all the possible item 8's (3V9827550 /A/B/C) on autodoc suggests they are all just under 600mm long. Do you have item 52 for each side? Those appear to be part of the gas-strut version, which may well not be present on your car?

Check the service booklet for a copy of the boot sticker.

Yes. One theory is that regulations to reduce harmful substances has resulted in paints that fail to protect the underlying metal surface so well as in 'days of old'. Once corrosion starts through/under the paint layer, the likelihood of cracks starting is greatly increased.

I very much doubt the same applies to a Yeti, but this is the 2-second coding change required on Polo 9N/Mk1 Fabia platform: VW Polo (9N) Central Electronics - Ross-Tech Wiki Can be done with VCDS Lite, probably even the unregistered version.

I believe so, yes. It's not showing you how to do trailer coupling wiring, it's showing how it's done from the factory. Do you mean the A5, A6 etc? They aren't connectors, they are inline splices in the loom(s).

The factory 'trailer coupling' wiring is as shown here: The various connections to the trailer light socket just tee off the feeds to the existing rear bulbs. 13-pin socket wiring is shown, 7-pin is obviously simpler and probably what most people will do on a car of this age. The function of the bypass modules that gives you a beeping in time with the direction indicators being used is actually built in to the Fabia electronics as a visual display of trailer-board indicator action, you just have to enable it by adding 1 to the coding of the onboard supply control unit, using VCDS. This is what it looks like (on my Polo) once you do this (and have a non-LED lighting board connected): 20220930_090155.mp4

Could potentially rule in/out the EGR cooler by bypassing it temporarily so coolant flow doesn't go through it.

You don't even need a bypass relay. Will explain a little later today.

I believe I have read reports of that being fixed by replacing the main ECU relay (#1 in e-box). You said in your first post that the relays had been checked, but I think it would be good to try another relay in that position. Is there another with the same number on the top of it that you could swap from another position?

Did you make notes of what the errors were?

A good example of why everyone with any interest in their car should know their engine code. Makes it easy to look at relevant parts diagrams. See link in my signature (view on computer, not phone) if you don't know what an engine code is or how to find it.

No.

Last time I made a similar knob-up it was the other way round, tried to measure volts straight across the battery with the meter probe in the 20A current socket. Big phut! Fuse inside the meter and a neighbouring bit of track both blew! 😁

Is it that your red meter cable needs to be in one of the left hand sockets? Top (10A) one recommended initially.