Breezy_Pete

I've always believed you! 😁

If you meant to write fuse, then yes, please do inspect. Take a photo and post it here if unsure of its condition. Trouble with engine speed (crank angle) sensor could well be related to starting/running problems. Inspect wiring near connector as a first step. Down behind oil cooler, I think.

Could it be worth checking that the VIN is the same everywhere it's written/stamped on vehicle, documentation, in firmware within control modules?

Is there a date code anywhere visible on the radiator fan that might indicate that it was/wasn't fitted during factory build?

How strange.

I agree. I agree, but maybe only after resolving the 00898, if a fault external to the HVAC module can be found for that. The system may start behaving correctly despite showing those relay errors.

For the power steering, it's probably a good idea to have a very close look at the strip fuse for it in the fusebox on top of the battery. These can crack, sometimes almost invisibly, leading to intermittent connection of the main power feed to the pump motor. In your car it's in position 5 of the strip fuses (1-6, left to right as viewed from in front of the car looking into the engine bay). Exact fault numbers may be useful if you still have the info, or the OBD tool?

In the implementation where there is a separate fan control module, the engine ECU doesn't have any (direct) dealings with it though. Inputs are either from radiator thermoswitch(es) or HVAC module. No data to it from anywhere. The version the OP has, without fan control module, the converse is true, all control is direct from engine ECU on the blue/yellow wire, as I understand it. (PWM signal, I think, from memory) It'll be nice to learn from this thread, assuming the problem does get resolved. I have confidence that Ruben will triumph.

The pictures in this listing make me think yours doesn't look right. I don't see how your cams could be rotated simultaneously in the same direction to achieve the position shown where that locking tool would fit in? Did you use such a tool? Qiilu Car Engine Timing Tool Camshaft Locking Tool Kit for 1.4/1.6 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

The way I read the scan in the OP, it's the HVAC module that's saying there's relay faults, not the engine ECU? From within module 08, or from within module 01? Having just looked at ETKA pages for 2010/2011 there's nothing to indicate the existence of suffix -B modules with any 'choice' of software/firmware pre-programming. That suggests my idea about differently programmed modules with the same part number to suit different fan configurations is very doubtful, I think.

I wonder if there is a software version in suffix B units that suit J279/J513 applications, and a different software version that suits the 'module in fan' version? And you have a suffix B HVAC module with the first of those software variants. The mis-match between dates of wiring diagram changes and ETKA part number changes seems to suggest that this might be what's going on? Almost that it must? If it was as simple as "suffix - C/D suits the module inside fan, suffix B suits separate fan control module" then the dates just can't be made to work.

Just leave the charger set on Normal. Although AGM batteries can be charged faster at higher voltage than wet batteries, they don't have to be.

There's a screenshot of two of those for £33 delivered in the third post of this thread. Link 2x5L Mannol 5W-30 C3 vw 504 00 / 507 00 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil Longlife 3 5056511600579 | eBay

A Skoda dealer should be able to order it for you. This UK based company claim they can get you one, but it seems crazy to buy from here and have shipped all the way to Czech. Skoda Ball Joint 5E9803902A - LLLParts At that price I would be keen to find one in a scrapyard!

Will look forward to attempting some assistance in the mk1 Fabia subforum.

See this post, make your own mind up based on what's written in the banner link: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499676-battery-causing-various-errors/?do=findComment&comment=5607340

If you fit a non-AGM/EFB battery you should disconnect the battery monitor signal connector from the battery negative post. The alternator should then revert to a fixed voltage output that should be OK for a conventional 'wet' battery. No

Flocking baaa-stew-ards!

Yes I probably would still avoid it to be honest. There's a reason the chain had problems, there's a reason the seller is getting rid of it, there's a reason it seems like a 'good deal'. I wouldn't want to become involved with such a vehicle.

I personally would treat a chain replacement on a 1.2/12V as a big 'avoid' red flag. 120 000km or before (when exactly, do you know?) is very early to have had chain trouble, so it suggests that maintenance of the engine throughout its life has been questionable.

Not ideal, cos it's much more expensive than a normal KKL cable, and it will have pirated software probably. VCDS Lite is a free download from ross-tech.com and a suitable cable is usually max £20. Cable example from reliable supplier: VW Audi Seat Skoda USB Interface for VCDS Lite - for most VAG cars 1996-2003 (gendan.co.uk)

I'd be hunting round the aux belt run carefully with a mechanic's stethoscope if I were you, trying to locate the noise source. Guess the compressor has had it, and that probably means game over for the A\C. Lucky (?) summer's almost over.

Does it still function to provide cold air?

Very likely, yes. Keep an eye on it; there may be a charging fault, or there may be a parasitic drain on the battery from some connected item with a fault. Or it may just be normal. Probably a good illustration of why they removed the state of charge display later; caused too much anxiety. In a minor fit of pedantry, the battery isn't coded to the car, the car is coded to the battery. There is nothing at all inside the battery that could harbour a code.

Is it the earlier type with motor modules with part numbers starting 6Q, or the later where they start with 6Y? 2004 was the changeover year. Have you examined the wiring in the bellows between door and a-pillar, both sides?