Breezy_Pete

As far as I can see, the socket has always been permanently live, unless someone has modified it since leaving factory.

If you go here, click Download this file, then pick the last option that appears it is the official word on all Fabia servicing. MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA "Fabia Inspection and Maintenance.pdf"

Depends what you consider expensive. This would do you for a shade over £30 delivered: Audi/VW VAG approved Quantum Platinum Plus Oil - 5 Litres 5w 40 5w-40 505 spec | eBay rated to 505 00 and 505 01.

So for the next change pick one where you can see one or both. May be written 505.01, 507.00, or with spaces instead of the dots. 505 01, 507 00. Nothing else matters.

I've only ever tried it with microsoft browsers, so I can't help, sorry.

Hello Kate and welcome. 🙂 Which engine type has the car got?

Take one off and look at the part number that's probably on the back?

So juvenile, the pair of you.

Keener lawyers over there.

It's a mk2 anyway, not a mk1, and really you want to be posting in the classifieds if you're trying to sell. For the electric window(s), probably a 50/50 between wiring damage in the door bellows or motor module failure with it being an early mk2.

Read the linked article here and make up your own mind if it's worth coding. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499676-battery-causing-various-errors/?do=findComment&comment=5607340

Sounds like good money for scrap, I'd keep it simple and take that.

Can't see an equivalent on mk3. There may be a part number on the one you do have? Unlikely to be available from anywhere except a Skoda dealer, so maybe just contact one?

Oh, sorry, I don't know much about recent models. See if the equivalent part on the last mk3 looks the same?

You forgot yourself. 🤣

Body section of ETKA, start here https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB

Power steering fluid will be tricky. Your car has electromechanical steering, not electro-hydraulic.

It's specifically mentioned in the abstract of the article you linked. Yes you could say that whatever paint is used the same contact may remove it, but surely less so, the better the paint job and the better the paint? I'm certain that many modern springs show rust far quicker than pre-millenium ones, not just in obvious contact zones. ...phosphate layer and painting around the contact zone were worn out due to contact and friction and resulted in corrosion and corrosion pits induced local stress concentration.

Depends how old the Octy is. The newer it is, the shorter the time, probably. 😁

I'd be trying a cheap secondhand one from ebay, as these things are usually pretty reliable. This one for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364029742427?epid=652374197&hash=item54c1dd0d5b:g:LQwAAOSwgs1jWof6&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoNn2k8OmCPO2x9Mf%2FD%2F3q1LE%2BltUMQDZ3dzq9CSvc5xJEEfg%2F3hiCUvtq%2BJF5wSLSuQwWydY8NpI3ugGqD%2FnNuBmWvU49tob6473s7S9LWjNwupQpz91JIsgDaFR7gq%2BwkTBujE7CAa9%2BNRy8xX5RJOGJ%2BX8leBPbvyw0e6L1gs6h2iDawM%2FI%2FMGryZokyL9E9%2F%2FHhe%2B8lPEtdyUeUahYu8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6KP9f6DYQ

Also important to have the car dead level front-to-back and side-to-side. How much came out when you drained it?

You probably realise this, but it will have to come from a car with steering wheel on the same side as yours, and probably from one with same engine type.

X relay switches off various current/power consumers that might be switched on during starter motor operation, to maximise energy availability for the starter.

I don't think it matters what order you undo the fasteners, but definitely have some assistants to stabilise it once the hinge is removed, while you focus on fitting the new one.

Where did you take it for the MOT? Seems no harm in naming and shaming if you don't plan to try to get them to rectify anything?