Breezy_Pete

@domhnall will very likely be able to answer this for you.

Edited. Out of date info, sorry.

Brown/white and brown/yellow for G17 ambient temp sensor on a 2005 Fabia.

All the petrol engine variants except for the 2.0 will be smaller connection pipe diameter, the vRS one is bigger at 55mm. Any non-vRS diesel one should be OK though, except estate/hatch will have different versions too, I think.

Which fuse do you mean? There appear to be 3 fuses associated with the fan control module, a 10 amp one in the cabin fusebox, position 16, a 30 amp blade fuse in the battery-top holder (position 3a) for slow speed fans and a 40 amp strip fuse (middle position of the five) for radiator fan full speed. Have you checked all three? Were the replacement fans you fitted new or used items? Have you checked that the connectors and their contacts which connect to the fan control module are unaffected by the spilt acid?

May be worth measuring the resistance of the other two solenoids while you're waiting, if you haven't already. This to test that your meter is reading reasonably, and also to guard against an error in the workshop manual whereby they've swapped a couple of numbers/ranges. Pins 1-2 (N239) and 4-6 (N18). Guess you have the suggested ranges for those already in the manual?

No Ken, sep was referring to the hot/cold blend flap, hence cycling the heat control to exercise/unstick it. I would suggest using VCDS Lite to scan the HVAC module for fault codes. One relating to V68 temperature control flap motor would be confirmatory.

From memory crank sensor on the 1.9 diesels is low down on front face of engine block, right hand side as you look from front bumper into bay. Where was the thing you changed and what part number was it? Tucked in somewhere behind oil filter housing/ oil cooler apparently.

Fault code was for crank sensor, wasn't it?, is that what you changed? See e.g. Engine not starting - Fuel issue - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Wow, love it when people put such great resources out there.

I understand your purist wish to have everything 'just so' and OEM, but if you're already going to be fitting secondhand relay holders, why not just extract the pins/wires that come with them, bin the large ones and replace, re-use the 6.3mm ones by either connecting onto the existing wire, or cutting that back close to the crimp and soldering onto your loom. They're only going to be carrying, what, 50mA of coil current or something, sub-critical. Nice to get a full list of parts required for anyone interested though.

Ah, OK. 🙂

Are both of the 'real' relays the same contact pattern as each other (or simply the same part)? I had it in my head that one was smaller, with 4-off 1/4" spade contacts (like the RHS relay in my photo), but if so how do they both fit that same relay socket?

You'd be welcome to any of these bits should they be useful. The left two relays are equivalent I think, pins are oriented opposite just to show what's written on each. Connector looks to be the only genuine bit, but it's the male pin part from the heater, not the loom.

I've probably got one of each relay in a box in the shed, but from memory, at least one of them has the whopping 3/8"/ 9.5 mm wide main contact terminals, then 6.3mm for the coil contacts.

1/4" spade receptacles sounds about right 10 PLAT STECKHÜLSE 6,3 mm 1,5-2,5 ² N 103 197 01 similaire à 000 979 236 E relais PIN EUR 7,50 - PicClick FR

Fair enough, easier and cheaper than I had expected.

That might be your solution here then Stewart, 'cos that way you can get a better angle to start them going in, without the subframe in the way, by the look of it. Just be aware that front alignment will be affected if the consoles don't get refitted to the chassis in the same position as they were when they came off. There's 5mm of slop in the two mounting holes of each console-to-chassis.

Look along the hard plastic sections and you'll probably find its part number, you can see the part number of the one that crosses it "03F 133 366 C" look for something in that same format on the one that's got the leak but starting 6R rather than 03. Hope to find a part number that matches one of the ones on here: vacuum hoses for brake servo - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com) More commonly known as the brake servo. Your leaky hose is important for its correct function.

Pics? (Of the bush/insert/console) I think the wishbone pin is parallel not tapered?, but maybe worth a measure in case there is a slight taper, and your bushes/inserts are the wrong way round for this?

Thread that we could now answer: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/217059-fuel-gauge-drops-under-hard-corneringbraking/ 😁 Interesting that he mentions hard cornering too. Presumably the cluster could get 4 individual wheel speeds instead of, or as well as the average of them from the ABS module's broadcasts. Reasonably sure I haven't noticed fuel gauge being affected when cornering hard. Aiming to have a quick look at the float travel orientation in my tank in the near future, it might be a compound angle, with a bit of fore and aft and side to side, I guess. Then if speed was constant but level changing improbably fast, output to the gauge stepper could be suppressed on the basis "must be cornering"? Edit: A quick look at the top of my fuel pump today versus ebay pics suggests the float does indeed pivot on an axis about 45° off the car centreline.

Any corrosion on the 'pin' section of the 'bones?

Just given you a groan for your 'BS' post @J.R., since you don't seem inclined to apologise to BilTecknik for it.

This table says adaptations are 'limited unless registered' but that doesn't necessarily sound like a definite 'no it won't'. Functions - Ross-Tech Wiki

VCDS lite will do it, but can't remember off the top of my head whether it would need to be registered. I keep meaning to download it onto another laptop and not register it on that one so I can try things like this with/without. I've come across very few things that the registered version of lite won't do, on this platform.