Breezy_Pete

How did the towbar get wired in? Have you got the towing indicator light confirmation on the dash going?

Factory fit battery part numbers, and descriptions, for 2015 mk3s here: LLLParts

The ignition switched (Kl15) supply to the pump module is from a 5 amp fuse (cabin fuse 16) so I think that would blow if there was a short inside. The Kl30 fuse is the strip fuse in the battery fuseholder, but a problem with that wouldn't interfere with any other systems, like the engine as far as I can see. See if you can increase the frequency of failure by adding a Kl15 load, say by switching on the rear wiper. Edit, no, that won't do, it seems to be fed from the 75x rail, not Kl15. Does the car have heated seats? That looks to be fed from Kl15.

Please let us know when you find/solve the problem.

I'd whack another on there if it were me just to rule it in/out, only a few quid. Whereabouts are you?

Not sure it'll be relevant, but as far as I can see these are the various power feeds to the circuitboard that aren't just straight in and out of a relay dedicated to that item, e.g. wipers: a permanent 12V power feed from cabin fuse 22 via the red-yellow wire at XP2/1, a 'key in ignition' (T86s) switched feed from fuse 19, into XS4/2, an ignition on (T75) feed into XS4/11, an ignition on (T15) straight from ignition switch to XS4/12 and another permanent 12V feed from engine bay fuse 11 into XS4/5. It almost looks like a more global electrical problem to me, like an ignition switch 'iffyness'.

This caught my eye today, the 1's making the spacing look unusual:

Maybe this set-up doesn't require any such adaptation? Are they not pressure sensors, rather than pressure switches? i.e. they actually output numbers

Cos it's generally only a small fraction of the full list, maybe a fifth, or even a tenth Ken.

So? Who's forcing you to click and read?

Stop clicking on the thread, duh.

I just tried Nige's link out of curiosity, and at a glance the only difference to what a Skoda dealer emailed me is that this has a production date where the dealer version only had a delivery date. Quite a significant difference in this case, made on 16/11/04, delivered 01/03/05. PDF link was sent within half an hour of purchase.

Where does the wiring diagram you are looking at show as the origin of the 58b power rail? I guess the light switch? If so see if it is is present there when the switch is on, then keep following it to wherever it goes next. The number-plate lights on the rear of the car may be powered from the same fuse, so see if they work or not.

You may or may not know, but that site isn't UK based despite the Web address. Will likely be shipped from Berlin, which seems wasteful and problematic if a return were required.

No, the adjuster for the backlighting brightness, near the exterior lighting switch.

Grab a spare dimmer thumbwheel bit from a scrappy. I think there's some electronics behind it that may have failed. Edit: that's after checking that it hasn't just got knocked round to a very dim setting!

Might be just worth checking that none of the pins at the a-pillar/ door connection got bent while removing and replacing the plugs, and that the new plug is fully seated after doing so. Not unheard of for weird problems to be just down to a plug that's not fully 'home'. If you can be without use of the car for a few days I'd be happy to try to rework your original loom bits if you were to pull it all out and post to me. Don't suppose you're anywhere near Oxfordshire? PM if interested.

Do you still have the old plug cut from the loom to fit the repair section?

3t1 part number would be for a LHD car, no?

Some rough ideas of prices here: LLLParts No idea why things get twice as expensive from 01/04/2010!

Loving the username by the way. 😁

Have you read the loom part number off its label? What is it?

I think something like this is what was being referred to: skoda door loom repair: Search Result | eBay

Seems most likely to me that you've got a couple of wires swapped compared to the original loom. Might be a case of measuring connectivity between main door connector and each of the destination connectors to try to find what's not right. I'll try to give you some pointers on this later.

One function of the clutch switch is to disengage cruise control if that is fitted and active. Not sure if there are other functions, but there probably are because it is still fitted on cars that left the factory without CC.