Breezy_Pete

Here's a little annotated image of the wires I think it would be great to check from 29-way connector to 8-way lock connector. The ones in the pink box possibly the most critical in terms of the lock mechanism telling the control electronics where it's at. Abbreviations from German colour names as follows ge = yellow, gr = grey, gn = green, li = lilac/purple, ws = white, br = brown, bl = blue The earth wire from pin 7 at the lock goes to pin 29, shown on previous page of diagrams.

Yes.

Do you have a multimeter you could use to test continuity/resistance of the wires from that connector to the lock connector? Will do you a little table of point to point pin numbers and wire colours a little later. It's going to be the first set of pin numbers I mentioned above, before doubts crept in. Will add in the lock end connector info.

Pinout diagrams:

Radiator fans will not be triggered into action if the compressor is not compressing the refrigerant due to a mechanical failure.

I doubt your car actually has a clutched system, so this observation may suggest that the correct diagnosis will be one of these failures:

Connector may not have wires in every positions, but there should be 29 possible wire placements. Not sure what the window motor looks like if you have the other version.

No, these would almost certainly be broken (if they are) within the rubber boot/bellows between door and a-pillar, so unclipping this at the a-pillar to be able to inspect is the way forward. The boot terminates wrapped around a white plastic frame at the pillar, and it's ideal if you can remove the boot with this white frame still attached to it. You certainly want to reattach it before refitting as it's dead easy to fit boot to frame when frame isn't inserted into the a-pillar, but bloody awkward to get on properly when it is. If that makes any sense at all! The frame is held in place against the metalwork with four plastic ramp catches, two on each vertical edge. in theory, squeezing front and back vertical edges simultaneously towards each other will release boot plus frame, but access is limited unless you have tiny hands. Image of catches on one side of frame:

6Y0 959 855 looks to be the passenger door window switch for mk1, the mk2 has a different part number.

Sounds as though you definitely need a replacement for the passenger side switch, not sure about drivers side yet. I doubt that mk2 Fabia ones will be drop-in replacements.

Look for broken wires between A-pillar and door, I think as a first step. Don't be surprised if you find a blue/yellow or violet/yellow one busted. They are the drive wires to the dc motor (not solenoid) within the lock. They go through the white connector pair at the a-pillar.

Sounds odd. First thing I would be tempted to do is check the part number of the motor module fitted on driver's side. Photo of the Skoda part number label would be ideal. It ought to be a 6Y2959802 with SK240DDRS as the bottom line of the label if original. If you can get a photo that includes the Temic part label too on the electronics housing, that would be good to see if the date codes match approximately, in case you have a hybridised thing.

On further scrutiny it seems I was being very hazy-sighted earlier. For the version with a 29-pin connector, yes door control unit is combined with window motor on the door. If you don't have that version, the lock module connects to a 23-way connector on what is known as "Central locking and anti-theft alarm system control unit", located behind dash panel. The wires going via a 10-way connector at the A-pillar.

Pins 1* (blue/yellow wire) and 11* (lilac/yellow wire) of the 29-way connector at the door control unit are the ones going to the motor within the lock, I'd imagine from a dual changeover relay within the control unit. The microswitches that send mechanism position info from lock to module are wired to pins 5* and 28* of module, so confirming their integrity seems wise. *ooh, hang on, pin numbers may be all wrong. Seems to be a few variants. Might be pins 6 and 13 at door module 23-way connector to motor in lock, same colours as above. Pins 12 and 15 at door module receive the position inputs from lock, these wires are grey/yellow and green/yellow respectively. Apologies for messy info, one or other of those sets of pin numbers probably applies to your car, got myself confused. If it's a 23-way connector at the door control unit** it'll be the latter pin numbers, if 29-way, the first ones. **no, to a control unit behind dash somewhere, see my next post below.

Exchange stock update. The following motor modules are packed and ready for rapid dispatch, all for RHD cars: Fabia Mk1 - 6Y2959802 Fabia Mk2 - 6Y1959801 Roomster - 6Y1959801 Polo 9N/9N3 - 6Y1959801 (just front elec windows) Polo 9N/9N3 - 6Y1959801A (all 4 elec windows) Transporter T5 - 6Y1959801 I had a bit of a play installing all (but 1) of the physically mountable units in my 9N3 Polo, and confirmed that a 6Y1959801 from a Roomster does not work properly in a Polo, the up/down controls are reversed, and with one-touch operation programmed the window doesn't go all the way up when requested (apporx 30mm shy). I suspect a Fabia mk2 unit will do similar, will check later and add info. Edit: yes, up/down reversed and doesn't make it all the way up when one-touch programmed. Polo and Transporter modules do seem to be interchangeable with each other according to yesterday's fitment of a T5 module in a 9N3 Polo, although I haven't access to a T5 to try a Polo motor in it. If anyone reading has put a replacement motor from a Polo in a T5 and knows if one-touch operation works properly, I'd be grateful to hear about it. Polo modules are distinguished by having VW240xxxx as the bottom line of the part number label, T5 modules have VW750xxxx instead. If anyone's curiosity is piqued by the above observation about one-touch closure not working with the mismatched Roomster/Polo situation, I'd be glad of someone putting a tape measure up the rear edge of their Roomster (and Fabia mk2) drivers door window to compare the glass height between seals with that of a 9N3 Polo (which I'll add to this post later) edit: 445mm, on 5-door 9N3 Polo. Pete

Yep, Ah is actually less critical than the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) figure in terms of getting a diesel going, so if all else is equal between a couple of candidates you're considering, pick the one with the higher CCA figure. Bear in mind that there are multiple 'standards' for measuring this which result in different figures so ensure you compare ones with the same authority e.g. DIN.

Diesel or petrol engine? If the former, then something towards the top of that Ah range, if petrol less critical.

A quick look at wiring diagram says the Golf4 set-up is quite a bit different to what I'm used to, so the lock motor control is going to be local to the 'driver's door control unit'; presumably where any relevant relay is. There is a central convenience control unit somewhere, but the door locks don't have any wires going directly to that, so presume that is mainly doing RF remote receiving and alarm related stuff. Tempted to acquire a cheap ebay door control unit of this type for educational purposes. Does the car have electric fold-in mirrors?

I haven't delved into mk4 golf electrics, but on Polo 9N and Fabia there are separate relay coils/contact sets for each door, so I wouldn't rule out relays yet. Will look at circuits and parts listings tomorrow. What year is the car? Sorry, dumb question, you said 1998 in the first post.

Haven't fully digested that story, but I would suggest that the current supplied to the motor may be reduced if the relevant relay(s) in the central convenience module have 'tired' contact surfaces. Dirty/corroded contacts between connector pins on the way to the lock could have additional losses. That reduced current might affect the behaviour of the motor and lock mechanism. I'll have a better read of your info in the morning. Changing out a few relays may be well worth doing before buying and trying any more locks.

Good shout, looks like the tip of a screw coming through the bracket to the left of the other one. Wondered what that was when I first looked, but didn't put two and two together. Thanks goodness one of us has a useful answer.

T45 Torx bit plus plenty of lever arm, I'd think?

Looking at a few of the parts diagrams here, the answer appears to be no. LLLParts

Did find o-ring, it's been around in a drawer for a few years but you can have it for postage plus a couple of quid if you want. PM me if you like.

I'm not familiar with the breather system in your engine, sorry. I might have a spare sensor o-ring in my shed though, will look shortly.