Breezy_Pete

As an aside, it'll be worthwhile checking that your breather system isn't blocked somewhere causing excess pressure in the crankcase, leading to this leakage. If there is such a blockage or malfunction, other leaks will probably appear if not sorted. There's no obvious (to me) other reason why an undisturbed o-ring should start leaking in a low pressure application like this. I suppose if the sensor has been changed at some point, and the o-ring not changed with it, that would be an unsurprising cause of the leak.

Looks like you'll need item 1 from here which is the o-ring: switches and senders on engine - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com) PN - 038103196 You don't mention what year or engine code your 1.6 FSI is, but I'll take a stab at this being the right one. Can check again armed with that extra data if it isn't that. See my signature if the term 'engine code' is a mystery to you.

It's done. 😁 That video was perfect and made that bit extremely easy to sort out. I was so chuffed that he'd made the vid that I sought out a phone number for him and called to thank him. Some free publicity to add to the video link: web address - dutchbikeshop.co.uk, Tel: 01903 730089, based Littlehampton, Sussex. He will be getting any future business to do with this bike for sure. Took me a while to figure out putting back and adjusting some of the other bits like the chain tensioner/wheel centraliser bits, and the flipping 3-piece plastic chainguard. It is a 7-speed version as yours above Lee. A few photos of the closing stages.

We will never know obviously implies that we don't already know!

Depends what that thrashing and abuse is, versus what the algorithm gives a damn about. We'll almost certainly never know.

There's no pressure sensor, but simply a pressure switch (open circuit when pressure is below threshold, short to ground when above). Test the warning system by unplugging the single wire connection and driving the car, expect red warning light above 1500rpm if not before. Location:

Could be informative to get @Aspman's latest thoughts on his heat pump installation as unit prices are heading skywards.

Sensor in the sump just measures level and temperature of the oil. It can probably feed into an algorithm that infers things about probable oil condition using oil temperature, ambient temperature, total run-time since last change and journey durations, I guess. Probably rather a crude 'guestimate' though.

Salvation is at hand: 🕺

This may be a key picture, which I should have hit up youtube with yesterday: Apparently it's a Shimano Nexus system.

I was fixing a rear wheel puncture on my partner's bike yesterday, and opted to replace the inner tube rather than patch. This meant I had to remove the rear wheel, which was much more of a mission than I'm used to. It has hub brake of some sort on one side, which I did managed to disconnect the cable of, and this gearchange thing on the chain/other side. There was probably a way to disco the cable and leave it in place, but I thought I'd dive in and start undoing/removing the bits and pieces with the yellow markings on. This went well in terms of disassembly... ...but had me close to tears when I went to try and refit it afterwards. The image is with things just loosely in place, not locked in properly. Had to put it away unfixed before it had me smashing things up! Anyone got experience of this type of thing, or even know what the gear system is called, please? It's a Dutch city-type bike I believe - won in a competition - haven't got the name of it on me, but can ask the missus to have a look in the shed if helpful.

Sorry for slow response, was out and about by the time this came through. As far as I can see this wire is only to do with the electric mirror heating and adjustment switch, so I'm a little surprised that its breakage caused a window motor problem. It comes from the onboard supply control unit (above acc pedal on RHD), connector XP3 pin 1 and terminates at the 10 way connector of the mirror adjustment switch, pin 1. What can happen with window motors that are on the blink is that depowering them for a while and then reconnecting the main permanent 12V feed can kickstart them back into proper operation, temporarily. You may have done this incidentally while fixing that wire break? I hope this isn't what you have seen, as that may result in disappointment again soon, but at first glance that seems likely to me. Edit: unless...there's a chance that you mis-remembered and it was actually a black/blue wire, in which case that would explain the problem, as that's an ignition 12V feed that acts as on 'wake up' input to the window motor module.

Which of the connectors at the a-pillar and what pin number? Photo? Sounds like good progress though, well done.

The battery management system will almost certainly figure out all that it needs to without any coding, it may just take a little longer than it would with the coding input. See this post and the link within: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499676-battery-causing-various-errors/?do=findComment&comment=5607340

I suspect the position of the module is very similar, but see if UrbanPanzer's info makes more sense than mine. It should do, but the diagram doesn't look awesomely clear to me.

Your assumption seems correct to me.

In the Fabia guides section there is a guide for changing the aircon evaporator temperature sensor. Find it and read. To get to that sensor you have to remove, or at least move the CCM it's up above clutch pedal on RHD cars.

Agreed, but knowing the motor trade, they'll battle to avoid any cost to themselves.

Assuming the latch with microswitch is in the moving/tailgate part, it could also be a wire between that microswitch and the BCM, broken in between moving tailgate and body?

Not sure, I searched my document for 'torch' and 'flashlight' and found reference to neither, so suspect it is a feature newer than the diagrams I have.

I think your wiring loom will be very incompatible with such an item.

I don't have latest diagrams for Superb so it may have changed, but the microswitch for the luggage compartment lighting is within the 'rear lid lock unit' F256 on the ones I do have. Such microswitches can fail either mechanically or electrically, although your car seems very young to have suffered such a 'wear and tear' problem.

Fair enough. Would've been clearer if I'd written "on the same circuit board".

Isn't that exactly what I said? Or is this a Greenline?

CAN gateway will be a sub-module of the vehicle voltage control unit above accelerator pedal on that age of Fabia, I think, same as on mk1.