Breezy_Pete

UK market cars didn't get oil level warning sensors, so presumably what you saw was a red light and sonic warning, which is related to oil pressure, not level. Pressure switch is on the front of the head of the engine, close to the EGR valve, with a green plastic body (from memory), examine for oiliness, particularly within the single-wire electrical connector, as this has come 'through' the switch as the diaphragm fails, if you find such contamination. Wire breakage is another possibility.

BBZ engine MAP sensor and PCV valve positions shown with red and blue arrows respectively:

LCD display means Climatronic, which has the electronic module instead of the resistor pack to control fan speed. 6Q2907521A for RHD car, much more expensive than the resistor version. Not sure how to diagnose with certainty that this part is the problem, rather than the fan itself or even a sensor or the control unit. Climatronic has its own built in self-diagnostics - I believe - so maybe google or ask here how to run that and see if it can tell you anything useful.

This looks like a repair loom for the job? Trim for the Glowplugs Škoda 038971782C (skoda-parts.com) Shipping cost may be high from that site though, so not necessarily the place to get one from.

My favourite type of fix, a free one!

Double-check the door open microswitch functions by leaving the lights on, remove ignition key and open driver's door. See if you get a warning tone 'lights left on'?

I think you'll find the part number as indicated here, possibly minus the SK3 suffix (not always printed on the part number label, in my experience of other VAG models). Eyeball confirmation would be wise before spending.

I wouldn't have thought a motor module change would need removal of that panel? A secondhand module with identical full part number, from a car of same age should be OK, I would've thought. What age is the car?

Grand tour of local scrapyards seems like your only option, sadly; hoping to find a 'not too long ago replaced with new' one of these sensors. Or a new old stock one surfacing.

Sounds believable to be honest. Are you 100% sure the sensor is what's wrong?

You could test that hypothesis by unplugging the cable that goes to it and see if the same symptoms return.

That's why I asked this question:

Maybe try to find a secondhand (or new aftermarket?) LHD one going reasonably cheaply on e.g. ebay.de to experiment with? Definitely look at images first though, it may simply not fit.

Looking at images of the 6q2 vs 6q1 parts may give clues about whether they can physically be mounted the same.

I'm afraid your choices appear to be gambling on a secondhand part from scrappie/ebay, or hoping that the only difference between the LHD and RHD versions is the cable length. I'd not like to pioneer that route myself - certainly not on a £200 new one, but it could be that extending the cable of a LHD one may work? Beyond that you could replace whole rack with new style and fit the 'non-captive cable' sensor plus connecting loom. Lots of cost and effort.

Do you want to retain/fix the alarm, or would you happy without it? Finding and removing the sounder will solve the problem if you're not bothered. I think there's no chance it'll be anything to do with the car battery.

2006 ETKA page relevantly cropped and highlighted. 3rd digit is what differentiates LHD/RHD, various other different characters for petrol/diesel/automatic/manual. I suspect a 56-plate vRS is going to have the 6Q2721503H variant, penultimate in list of '15' s.

Yes, except the word 'just' has no right to be in that last sentence. Big, awkward job, especially so the first few times you do it, and easy to cause new problems if things don't go perfectly.

Any chance the car has travelled a little sideways into a kerb in the last two weeks?

I didn't find any obvious problem with the one you kindly sent me Ryan. Didn't get round to trying it in my car, and realistically that may never happen.

Private sale or dealer?

I don't think the noise matters to anything except your ears, but I suppose it might seize up completely one day. Bearing is cheap, labour to get to it - not at all cheap (same as for fitting new clutch, hence waiting til then). You have bigger fish to fry. Maybe another reason in favour of ditching this car?

Fit a new release bearing if/when you ever need a new clutch.

Ta.

Just out of curiosity @JGrindel how do you know that the parts aren't the other way round, DPF first, cat after?