Breezy_Pete

Not sure what the other part number you quoted is, the one ending 752J. Possibly just the metal plate minus the window regulator bits?

Take the spark plugs out tomorrow before running the engine and shine a torch down each of the holes, looking to see if any of the piston crowns look wet.

What device are you using to read the fault codes? Use it to clear them. Any that return will relate to the real problem(s) - but maybe not directly.

What area do you live in Raky?

Stop blaming sensors and stop unplugging them. Map sensor and intake air temperature sensor are in the same housing. In fact, the small bead that is just visible in your photos of the MAP sensor is actually the IAT sensor. This is why unplugging the 4-way connector from the MAP caused two new fault codes P0107 P0113. The other P0322 came from unplugging the crank sensor, the 3-way connector. See what's going on with your engine coolant first.

Yes, the one on the 3-potter can be very hard going, especially once the alloy of the block has furred up nicely around it and 'glued' it in place.

Considering both of my Polos must have that arrangement, and I carry a spare crank sensor in the underseat box of my daily, I should've got there a bit sooner. Crank sensors never seem to give any trouble, in my defence.

Aha! VEM Crankshaft Pulse Sensor V10-72-1270 FOR Polo Fabia I Golf Bora Lupo Octavia | eBay

1st one of those is consistent with crank sensor having been unplugged, and MAP sensor unplugging will have generated the other 2. Is there maybe a long captive lead on the BBZ crank sensor that means the plug/socket is up near the MAP sensor??

Hello

Crank sensor and connector for (dummy) vehicle speed sensor on differential are both 3-pin, I think, and on that leg of the engine loom.

Well spotted, but according to this page also equivalent. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y1837462-power-window-mechanism-front-right-6024.html All 4 of the part numbers near the top of that page should be interchangeable.

The 462 part appears to be the correct number according to this page https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/8/837/837060

I'm not sure what that 3-way connector in your pictures is from, maybe knock sensor? That's somewhere under the inlet manifold.

Ever-tighter particulates and NOx emissions targets have made fuel economy more and more difficult to achieve, especially with diesels. Shame really, cos obviously (real world) CO2 output goes up as fuel economy worsens.

@Murdockman you seem to be talking about the mk1 Fabia console bushes, which @26DIPP might be needing but only if his daughter's mk2 is a very early one, they changed to the style Carlston showed very early in the mk2 history. Chassis numbers either side of the change are shown in the titles of the first two diagrams here front axle, steering Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com)

Pretty sure I read somewhere - probably on Brisky - that the flushing involves a large number of iterations of fill, run around, drain.

Wonder if much of it is made in Ukraine?

Yes, I tend to agree sep, and had intended to say that, but failed.

Possibility that Screwfix are adjusting their prices 'cos of an error, stock may return at a higher price? How long has it been 'super-cheap'? Or is the Toolstation price a lot more than the going rate? Doesn't seem that much to me, £2.20 per litre? How long would 10l last?

Nice work.

Not sure what Screwfix were/are charging, but I tend to use Toolstation as an equivalent outlet for hardware: Redex AdBlue 10L | Toolstation

UK market cars didn't get oil level warning sensors, so presumably what you saw was a red light and sonic warning, which is related to oil pressure, not level. Pressure switch is on the front of the head of the engine, close to the EGR valve, with a green plastic body (from memory), examine for oiliness, particularly within the single-wire electrical connector, as this has come 'through' the switch as the diaphragm fails, if you find such contamination. Wire breakage is another possibility.

BBZ engine MAP sensor and PCV valve positions shown with red and blue arrows respectively:

LCD display means Climatronic, which has the electronic module instead of the resistor pack to control fan speed. 6Q2907521A for RHD car, much more expensive than the resistor version. Not sure how to diagnose with certainty that this part is the problem, rather than the fan itself or even a sensor or the control unit. Climatronic has its own built in self-diagnostics - I believe - so maybe google or ask here how to run that and see if it can tell you anything useful.