Breezy_Pete

Good stuff. The fact that there were no hiccups with the emissions test suggests that the flexi was what was leading to the fault code/light, I should think. If those console bushes have not been done previously, they've lasted remarkably long, 20 years!

Actually, surprisingly perhaps, it doesn't matter if it's on, so don't worry too much. Just screenshot this and point it out to the tester if they try to fail your car for EML on. Your car is too old for the EML to be testable:

Your electric windows are independent of any central control, only communicating between themselves (drivers and passenger side modules). On mk2 Fabias the most likely failure is wire breakage in the rubber bellows between front doors and A-pillars. If you've not checked both of those yet, that should be your first step. Does the car have radio remote central locking or only 'key in door' version? If the latter, a problem with window motor module on driver's side can affect central locking too. No idea about seatbelt warning.

Might be worth trying one of these repair kits: vw lock barrel repair kit: Search Result | eBay

Two screws to remove to pull that cylinder out a little and see if there's any sign of leakage at the business end. If the problem hasn't happened again since the 'foot hook' I'd be inclined not to investigate further until it does though.

Leave the thread alone if it doesn't interest you, muppet.

Wait and hope for 'Crasher' to reply, he's in the trade, so will have far more knowledge and experience of the options than I do.

Dunno. If you had a known good head that they could swap on that would save a bunch of time, toing and froing etc, but I suspect they will be hard to find in guaranteed good condition.

That doesn't surprise me. @Crasher might be kind enough to offer a view on relative costs of head refurb versus engine swap labour costs. I know that 'back in the day' there used to be repair kits for the 3-potters including whole new head, cat etc, for not that much money, not sure if that's true of the BZG generation?

Well, change the coolant and see if things improve. Much easier than changing the gasket!

No, I mean they think the refurb will be more expensive than to swap in another engine. Maybe they just don't fancy the refurb job. Much easier to swap in another engine, in my opinion. Having just looked at the going rate for BZGs on ebay I'm a bit surprised by how much they go for (~£600+). There must be tons of them in scrapyards by now.

Very dependent on local labour costs, so at least you're in the right half of the country. The fact that the garage suggested replacing engine rather than refurbishing the head is probably a clue though.

You could get a quote for head refurb, but it will be a lot of money I fear.

So that's looking upwards towards the head/block joint? Looks like you need a new gasket if it is.

Where?

I've been expecting this news, sadly. Was this diagnosed by compression testing? Fitting a new engine is only really economically viable if you can do it yourself, and even then is a gamble unless you know the history of the donor car.

Have you been using any fuel additives? Everything you need to know about lambda sensors - Garagewire "Fuel/Engine Additive Contamination Similar to anti-freeze, the sensor nose will be contaminated with white or red deposits."

Well done. Let's hope this sensor lasts longer than the last one. What did the removed one look like? Any obvious damage/dirtiness?

1KJ for 286mm rears is there in the first row. Front brake PR codes likely not to be there, so much so that I won't bother double-checking.

@rainford if a battery is EFB or AGM it is usually quite clearly marked as such on the top face. Can you post a photo of the top?

P0171 is 'too lean' fault code I think, so most likely a vacuum leak somewhere. See if there's a little port/vent on the top rim of the PCV valve near the oil filler cap. Stick a finger over it with engine running and see if anything changes. How many miles on the car?

Hmm, the shape of both bits looks quite different to me, making me think that what you have there probably is aftermarket, hence the lack of useful markings (and value).

I'll dig out some photos in a bit of one I got fixed with a new flexi. Can't remember if there are any markings visible but the shapes may show similarities/differences.

Well if you're not sure if the female thread is actually damaged, you should find that out first, just use the other (undamaged?) guide pin as a tester to see if it goes in OK and tightens up without slipping. The repair kits exist because this is such a common knob-up caused by failing to get the caliper back in position properly before starting to do up the guide pins.