Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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Cool, well done. There is a relay inside which could be changed, but unless you're pretty handy with soldering/de-soldering it would be trickier than a module swap. Get one with exactly the same part number as you plan to (it doesn't really matter what car it was first used in), but before removing the old one do a scan of it with VCDS to read the coding. You're looking for something like "Coding: 25754" though the number may be different. I might actually have a spare of that part number, I could look for if you like.
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Please confirm that you have checked or replaced fuse 4 (10 Amps). Not sure if when you say "I have power going into..." you mean on the specific relevant wire from this fuse. It's red/green and goes in on pin 4 of the same brown 6-way connector as the feed to the lights comes out of. Have you got standard interior light bulbs, not some LED replacements? The coding is trivial if you do need to replace it, but obviously it's good to check every other possibility first.
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Heavy tint that won't pass test?
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If you had a spare clamp do you reckon you could reattach it through the grommet hole? Or by making that hole bigger until you could? Or cut a hole lower down to retrieve the dropped bit through?
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Yes, I think that's the right position. Can you not just push the new crimp/wire into that orifice? It should latch into the connector around the same time it mates with its opposite gender partner in the other half of the connector; I would think?
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Part of the negative clamp, not battery, relax.
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Any difference to the exhaust smell?
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Must cost a fortune in fuel (to run the car all the time). No sleeping for you? 😁
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The type in the photo appears to be 357972771 (e.g. 1 Pin Plug 357972771 for VW Audi Wiring Plug Sensor Connector | eBay), but that may not be what yours looks like.
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Not sure, sorry. Photograph existing one both sides looking for part number when photo is blown up? That part number when put in ebay search returns stuff that looks different (to the photo you posted at least).
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Yep, that's the wire of doom... Depinning the connector, soldering a suitably thick wire onto the crimp, refitting, then joining new and old wires robustly and waterproofing is the 'free' way to repair. Access is the challenge for the joining bit.
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ASZ is what he meant, I think.
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Disconnect the solenoid plug (thinnest wire going to starter) and give it a gentle pull before you go down the route of changing the starter, might save yourself an unnecessary job if the wire parts. Wire tends to break at the cable entry of the connector, but gets intermittent before it fully parts (due to high resistance connection with corroded strands). Also came across one recently on a Polo forum where it broke at the point that the single wire exits the loom, further from starter. For window motor ills, check A-pillar bellows wiring, fuse 11 if you didn't already, and possibly my signature links.
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Does the car have DSG transmission? The thermostat associated with that seems to be a common fault, leading to low temperatures, I think. I personally wouldn't expect anything put in the fuel tank to make any improvement to a blocked DPF. Reviews may be written by manufacturer of snake-oil.
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Not sure the viewing eyes are worth much to be honest. I'd expect the fuse tray to be quite easy to lift off enough with the two or three clips unlatched?
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Ah, I see. You'd have to unclip and lift the fuse section away a bit to see.
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Part number usually on top face, or does felt cover that too?
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Is there a part number on the top of the original? One that matches one on this page (view on computer, not phone to be sure of seeing all info): fuse socket - Roomster(RO) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com)
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3 pieces I think, 1st one from reservoir to engine side of firewall just near ABS module (under engine ECU). Pushfit connection there, most likely unfitted. 2nd piece runs from there to somewhere at the rear of the cabin on left (UK nearside); on hatchback it's just under the plastic trim that the left rear seatbelt sits on when unused. Same sort of pushfit connection, strapped in with wiring loom. 3rd piece from there to outlet. That's all based on hatchback experience, rear end stuff differs a little I think, as outlet is up with high level brake light I seem to remember (comes out of wiper spindle on hatchback). Strong screenwash required to prevent the expansion associated with freezing from popping these pushfits apart, at this time of year anyhoo.
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@freddyuk you don't appear to have answered @ApertureS about how you measured the parasitic current? Did you just measure it once there may be an intermittent fault? Grab an assistant and try it this way, if it's not how you did previously https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495243-quick-and-dirty-parasitic-current-measurement/?tab=comments#comment-5557920
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During the 1 hour you get for your 7 euros, you could download all the wiring diagram pdfs for every model of Skoda ever documented on erWin I should think (with a good web connection). How complete do you need?! There are just 4 circuit documents that cover all Fabia mk2s, so start with those; then download anything else of interest. Use "Individual vehicle information" tab, then "repair info" choice.
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T11b/6 (red 11-way) plug seems correct for your engine. Plenty of options for picking up a terminal 15 ignition switched feed. The black/yellow wire from fuse 14 to t11c/2 (blue 11 way at firewall) for example. It also tees off to the ECU relay.
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Oil pressure warning is a red light not amber, I think. Oil level warning can be an amber light, check the wiring and connections to the level/temperature sensor in the sump. I assume the level is not low?
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The evaporator temperature sensor will ensure the N280 compressor valve is at its minimum if it reads at or below 0°C, so no cooling will occur. Don't necessarily expect to hear magnetic clutches clicking on modern Skoda systems, most models have a variable displacement system regulated by a proportional solenoid valve, N280; effectively 'always on', albeit only at a duty cycle of a few percent when not required to produce any cooling. If yours is a model with a magnetic clutch they do apparently have an outside temperature switch that will disable the system below 2° and not re-enable until 5°C.
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Still think the flexi leak may be your problem, you didn't do anything about that, did you? in my experience, unless you unmount the pipe at one end at least, you can't really see how broken/leaky the flexi is.
