Breezy_Pete

That suggests the front one is trying to richen the mixture because the back one's reading lean. What if you keep your foot on the gas and hold it at about 2000rpm, say?

Not good, I think. What was the Bosch (or other) part number of it?

Has the melting compromised any of the smaller wires, or just the fuse end of the thick one? If just that, I'd be tempted to get a replacement made just for that. 25mm² conductor area cable, not much longer than the original, and I suspect a 6mm ring crimp at fuse end, 8mm at alt end (**check these**). Needs a good/appropriate crimp tool, so probably better to get one made for you at a good motor factors or via ebay (e.g. 170 Amp 25mm² Battery Power Cable Starter Earth Custom Made Car Auto Connection | eBay). Can just disconnect and tie off the original at both ends, and strap the new wire to the old loom with tyraps. New whole loom may be unavailable or expensive; 2nd-hand may be degraded. There's probably a part number on a label on the loom somewhere? If not you could work it out from here, by finding out your engine code (see right hand highlighted column) and reading off the appropriate part number in the other highlighted column.

Sorry, typo in my previous post which I'll go back and correct. NJ is mk3 Fabia F is MY 2015, so manufactured after mid-2014, before mid 2015.

Blue/yellow and violet/yellow wires in positions 4, 3 of the white 6-way connector at the A-pillar drive the motor in the door lock. Don't forget to check fuse 11 for the windows, as well as the main power feeds.

Agreed, Tayna (not tanya, but it redirects) may well be able to deliver one to you next day for only just over half of that £111.

7th and 8th characters of the VIN should correspond to the 5J etc. I'm not sure which model 6V is (must be mk4, I guess), but 5J is mk2, NJ is mk3. CUS- 'Motorcode' engine is found in mk3s, but not mk2s according to wikipedia, for what that's worth: Škoda Fabia - Wikipedia 10th character of VIN is an encoding of Model Year, which may help establish construction time.

Check the soft rubber connecting pieces in the PCV valve outlet hose. That connects through to the inlet mani so can be a big vac leak if rotted out like on this BMD in a Polo. No EGR as xman says. Sep could be right; borescope would probably see damaged valve edges if present.

But the OP isn't saying he's bothered about being able to see where he's going; he needs the car to look cool and modern to others, or himself if he walks around it with the lights on. Total mystery to me, but it seems to be a very common affliction.

In cabin I think. Starter relay 1 is in position 2.2 on relay holder underneath Onboard Supply Control Unit Starter relay 2 in position 2.1 on relay holder above Onboard Supply Control Unit Different positions in cars built from May 2013, working on it. Same pos for relay 1, this for relay 2: Starter relay 2 in position 3.1 on relay holder above Onboard Supply Control Unit

2 relays, in series, positions 2 and 3 in wherever the relays are on a Superb 2, E-box under bonnet? Might be worth giving either/both a tap when the car's next misbehaving.

Kharl, try this page: Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk1 > Engine > 1.9/47 SDI Engine, Fuel Injection > Fuel preparation system Diesel injection > Exhaust gas recirculation system > Piping diagram for exhaust gas recirculation (workshop-manuals.com)

Likely to suffer overcharging if used in a conventional fixed-voltage charging system. See article about AGMs at battery university.com BU-201a: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) - Battery University

You need a diode in that feed I believe, so better to repair the original wire which may be broken, as opposed to shorted. Not sure how it routes in a Favorit but someone like @RicardoM may be able to assist with that.

Our Fabia's original 12-valve motor made it to just over 175000 miles, with in all honesty a driver with very little mechanical sympathy during our ownership. I've yet to strip it down to confirm, but my impression is that it was the bottom end that wore out, and that would fit with it being driven without great care about which gear was actually appropriate at any given time. Edit: it also had a serious clutch fault during its last months, that I was very slow to understand, which can only have hastened its demise. Obviously if it's given good oil regularly, and not driven on too many short journeys where it doesn't get up to temperature, it will help any engine last longer. I suspect there is a fault to be found on yours @Auxiliary; do you have VCDS? The freeware version should let you look at measuring blocks of the engine ECU where you could perhaps scrutinise the misfire counters for each cylinder and see if the numbers increase with the judders, which seems likely. I can't remember if they give you an individual cylinder breakdown of that stuff, but I suspect so? It might be useful to see if they are random or focussed on one cylinder. (Or there aren't any at all)

Guess you meant 5W40?

I bought a replacement tyre for my box trailer last summer. It was an online purchase through a local outlet, and cheap, but I was a little disappointed to find it was 7 years old. Seems absolutely fine though, so I wouldn't necessarily conclude that age is the problem with your Avons. More likely to be a 'cost saving' change to materials used, knowing the world in 2022 (and 2016).

Cool. Consider upgrading to Freedom membership as a thank you to the forum, please.

Check the blue wire. (They're usually blue, the excitation wire)

Download for 7 euros plus tax at erWin Skoda.

Yes, 1 wire does, the other appears to come directly from fuse 28, so it could well be worth checking that. Engine code would help me check info better, Also look at characters 7 and 8 of VIN to see whether mk2 or mk3; the former is 5J.

Probably, yeah.

Inspect the wiring that goes to it. And the connectors at valve and ECU end in case of water ingress.

Yeah, but the new one should sit at 0.45-ish.

Did you fix the exhaust leak at the flexi? Expect the new sensor to sit at about 0.45V, as per this official info: