Breezy_Pete

What year was your Fabia built @tbuccetti? There are two different types of window motor modules, the changeover was sometime between July and October 2004 I believe, They aren't interchangeable due to different connector arrangements, and different communications, CAN-based on earlier cars with modules having part numbers starting 6Q, LIN-based on the later cars with modules of part number 6Y...

The clips (which are rivetted to/ part of the pads so hard not to change with the pads!) were probably just a lot less shiny on the old pads, so not so noticeable. Good news is they've put that one in the right place, as an outer pad. There are subtle differences between clips on inner and outer. This image shows an inner pad on the left, and an outer on the right.

The HVAC module is on the convenience CAN bus isn't it? I don't know my way round a Yeti, but that ought to be close by?

When was the car made?

The main power fuse (and the contacts in the fusebox) for the passenger window module would be good to check if not already examined.

Don't think it'll help actually. A 54-reg mk1 is likely to have the system where the two (driver's and passenger side) modules communicate with one another, but nothing central, including the diagnostics. Effectively invisible to VCDS. @Jamesmaher63, it's not clear to me whether you previously replaced the driver's side regulator (wires and mechanism) or motor module? Please clarify. It also sounds like you may just need to reset the one-touch function on driver's side as it is actually moving the window? I wonder if the single comms wire from driver's side module to passenger side one is busted? The result of sep's suggested test will be useful info.

Phone a UK VW/Skoda dealer for a price. Should be ballpark 50p each, e.g. Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Glide Piece 6N0609589 - LLLParts

If the springs on the car are the factory originals they will have a sequence of paint marks on them. This is the key to working out the part number.

@TruckbusUK If you follow the ebay link I posted earlier, you'll see that genuine batteries are indeed sometimes Exide branded. Another example here, with VWAG engraved near the negative post and the VWAG part number top right. REMK UP CITIGO AKUMULATOR 1S0915105A 59Ah 320A EFB - 7651917745 - oficjalne archiwum Allegro Maybe the OP could look at his negative (battery!) post and see if it has a date code engraved on the top like in the 2nd image of that latest link?

I think it may be just you, worked fine for me two seconds ago.

My personal opinion is that if the replacement is also an EFB type, and the capacity (Ah) figure is the same or similar, coding will be inessential.

Wait, this sentence seems to have a contradiction in it. I've italicised the two bits that conflict. An EFB is a start stop type of battery, albeit the cheaper version.

Does it not say "EFB" somewhere not far from the +ve terminal, like the one in this image: Genuine Volkswagen Battery 640 Amp 1S0915105A for sale online | eBay

Mend the broken ones, or all. Lots of kits on ebay.

One or more busted wires in the door bellows, surely.

Steering pump/reservoir is shown in the yellow box here. Access is good with front bumper removed. The main permanent power connector is the one with the two fat wires in the middle, red goes up to one of the strip fuses in the fuseholder above battery, brown earth wire goes to the stud arrowed in brown.

When you say low oil light, is that a yellow warning light? MK1 Fabias sold in the UK market didn't get oil level sensors, so they're not much discussed here.

Service message just a coincidence, I think, as long as you don't mean a low oil pressure red light? CV joint and whole driveshaft part numbers can be found on this page. Filter by engine code ASY in the 'data model' column. View on computer, not phone to see all of the info: drive shaft; for manual gearbox - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2002 year] (7zap.com) Inner (and outer?) CV joints appear to the same part number on the ASY as on both of the 1.2 engine codes AWY, AZQ.

Oh, for some reason I'd got the idea it had just had this service very recently.

Ask the place that did the service. Was any fuel treatment included on the invoice?

The ECU may well have survived, yes. What might have happened is the melting of wires to do with the shorted ignition coil may have damaged the bit of loom that carries the power to the oxygen sensors too, if they are bundled together at some point. Is that a photo of a secondhand loom off ebay or similar? Where are you based?

Photo? Sounds like you may need to replace the engine loom. 😢

Did you completely remove the lips on the inside surfaces of the drums while they were off? If not, do that, then slacken off the handbrake cable at the equaliser bar, then 'pre-adjust' the adjuster wedges on both sides until you can only just get each drum back on. That should get the adjustment about even on both sides. Can't be done while there's a lip.

Fuse 9 powers the heaters in the two oxygen sensors, which will be grounded by the ECU. Fuse 52 (not 54 that's left dipped beam headlamp) is the ignition coils' 12V supply, and also a switched 12V feed to the engine ECU. Is any of the wiring to the ignition coils visibly burnt?

I think the wiring is approx as follows, but without engine code I can't be sure. Pin 1 at connector - N/C switch connection to engine ECU Pin 2 earth to hall sender electronics Pin 3 N/O switch (the one that indirectly controls brake lights) connection to engine ECU or BCM depending on date made etc. Pin 4 (main relay) switched power feed from engine bay fuse 22 The two switches are shown as both being operated by the hall sensor electronics, like this: