Breezy_Pete

Yes, and yes, I'd join it in somewhere closer to the wheel, just making sure to waterproof well. Or just bodge it better as you say.

What for?

Front right sensor (G45) to pins 6 and 18 of ABS module connector:

Straight to the ABS module under the ECU, I think, but will check any sec. £73 for a connector with a length of wire on it sounds mad. I'd be surprised if you/we can't find a connector that does come with wire tails pre-installed, which you could just extend as necessary with something like 0.5mm pond cable (similar rubbery outer to the OEM cable).

Shouldn't be a problem now that you've eliminated the root cause of the vibration Kharl. The genuine one does appear to be a bolt: Screw M8x50 genuine part N0195433 (skoda-parts.com) Correctly tightened in this application I wouldn't think there's much difference.

Thought you might.

Have you checked fuse 10?

Is it the one I showed above that we have been discussing this whole time?

I think this one:

I don't think I would expect it to rattle.

Why not wait for something to turn up cheaper? Any old bodge job of fixing up the current one will be fine. Air metering happens downstream in the manifold, so it really doesn't matter if that pipe isn't 100% airtight.

Is it item 12 here that you seek? LLLParts If so you want 5J0129684. Scrapyard/ebay seems the obvious place to look rather than buying new though. 5129684 5J0129684

Fuse 13 is before the reversing light switch in the circuit, so its output is 12V any time the ignition is on. Is that OK?

This part is not clear at all to me, still. Photo?

Try disconnecting the two-way connector that goes onto the reversing light switch on the gearbox. Short the two contacts of the loom connector with a piece of wire and see if the problem still persists. I think you may discover one of two things by trying this: 1. The wiring to the reverse light switch connector is damaged and almost broken, or if there is no sign of that 2. The reverse light switch is worn out and a replacement may enable the function you are attempting.

M8 thread or larger? TMB and I both suggested the one that's 50mm long on Tuesday, item 24 in the ETKA diagram connecting and mounting parts for alternator; pol... Fabia (FAB) 2002 year Skoda EUROPA 903050 (7zap.com)?

Alternator rotation is clockwise as viewed from the pulley end.

RHD headlights all have part numbers beginning 6Y2 rather than 6Y1 of the LHD ones, see here: individual parts; ============================== - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com) This link may be easier to interpret. LLLParts

Masquerading as a UK local site, but actually Berlin based.

Some part numbering info that I have recently, I think, understood. There is much more info on this label than just in the 9-digit VW group part number at the top of the label. The key thing to note about that 6Yx95980x number is that on passenger side modules, the 3rd and 9th digit are always different, on driver's side modules they are always the same. Suffix A after the 9th digit indicates a module made for a car with all four windows electric With reference to this photo, and the colour coding I've added to the bottom line, here is my best understanding so far of what this info means, and most or all of the variants you may see. The green box identifies the brand the module was made/programmed for. Always either SK for Skoda, or VW for Volkswagen. The three-numeral section underlined in orange is model identification. 240 for VW Polo and Skoda Fabia Mk1; 250 for Skoda Fabia Mk2, 258 for Skoda Roomster, and 750 for VW Transporter. The two letters underlined in blue are always either DD or PD. As far as I can see this always means Driver's Door and Passenger Door respectively. There may be a numeral 2 or 4 in between these two letters, 4 meaning 4-doors all with electric windows, but the 2 is often omitted (treated as the default?). The last two characters underlined in red (RS or LS) indicate whether the module was made for a Right-Hand Drive car or Left-Hand Drive. "Right Steering" or "Left Steering" Hope this proves useful, comments welcome. Cheers, Pete

Maybe item 24 in the link I posted then? Simultaneous posting Lee. 😁

Item 20 here, I guess? LLLParts There's a lot of difference between the two lengths you were told, can't you estimate which is right? Rubbish diagram, unlike the reality I think?

Too tight it would probably break while being tightened, too loose could cause fatigue fracture of the bolt if there's movement possible in the joint.

Radial wobble, not end float, I think?

Hmm, that's possibly related.