Breezy_Pete

Thin brown wire with yellow stripe, going to pin 4 of the 28-way connector at the a-pillar. It's much more likely to be a broken wire or lock module than a dirty connection, so I doubt contact cleaner will help, but nothing to lose if you have some. If it's only one or two broken wires I would repair rather than replace loom. Wires breaking here is an extremely common fault in the mk2, so someone will guide you through loom repair or replacement if it is necessary.

Ah, that's good info. Check for broken wires in the A-pillar to driver's door rubber boot if you haven't already. The relevant wire is possibly broken. What year is the car? If not, it's probably a fault with the doo lock module 'door open' microswitch, or the soldering of the connector to the circuit board inside the module. Replacement lock is the quickest fix.

Does the interior lighting still work when opening door?

Hmm, seems like they've got a spring inside that can break: FABIA III 2737 - Throttle Actuator (G186) P1558 00 [167] - Electrical Malfunction | Ross-Tech Forums I'd be tempted to give GSF or similar a ring and see what they can supply in the way of aftermarket. The genuine ones will be crazy expensive from a dealer, and have apparently been engineered poorly.

Do you have EPC or other fault lights lit? What fault codes?

I won't be reading any more of your posts. Waste of time. Bye.

The things you mention @nta16 aren't anything to do with the engine ECU, fairly obviously. There is no MAF on a 1.2 HTP engine. No Fabia with its original factory fit radio needs a code entering anywhere after a battery disconnect/reconnect, to the best of my knowledge. Have you actually tried this thing yourself?

A deeper dive into the microswitch in the latch that came off our 175k mile car on Saturday suggests it's an electrical contact failure rather than a mechanical/wear issue with the microswitch mechanicals. Comparison of the 'on' resistance of new and old microswitches (with a cheap multimeter): New - less than 0.2 Ohms Old - around 8 Ohms Teardown revealed a really tiny contact patch between moving and static parts, with a sooty and uneven/worn surface on both sides. Easier to see (with a microscope) than to photograph, but here's a best effort at it. The goldy coloured bar is the moving contact, the round blackened patch visible on the more silvery static contact. So nothing to be gained by cleaning and re-lubing the microswitch/cam externally, in my opinion.

Not me, the OP asked about that in his first post. "Also, what is a healthy number of instant consumption when the engine is at operating temperature and idling? Mine usually displays 0.6 l/h. However, when I switch off the low beam it goes down to 0.5 l/h. When the judder is occurring, the instant idle consumption typically goes from 0.3-0.5 l/h, a more unsteady. " Don't forget to give him your spiel about 'over complicated and intrusive software'; I'm sure that'll be useful. 😁

The hyperlinks on that site don't work (probably because it is pirated info), but the 'next page' and 'previous page' buttons do. You may be able to get where you want to that way. I would pull off the 'cap' (item 7) shown on that page from the handle and try moving the little serrated plastic plug to a looser setting, i.e. further in on the 'ladder' of possible positions. If that doesn't work, try going the other way, if it isn't already at an extreme.

Presumably the car has radio remote central locking? In which case either of the two part numbers 5th and 6th from last in the long list of 'item 1's here should be OK: lock cylinder sets - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) View on a computer rather than phone and you should be able to see all the info, including part numbers 3B2837016AB, and 5J2837016. the latter superseded the former so either should fit. A third equivalent part number appears to be 3B2837016Q, probably the predecessor of the -AB part: Front Right Door Lock Škoda 5J2837016 (skoda-parts.com) (look at the boxes to the right of "Skoda part number".

I suspect item 2 here hasn't been refitted to the handle in the correct position. But as the body shop 'broke' it I'd be inclined to take it back there for them to 'unbreak'.

The thread is about an engine judder, and possible fuel consumption issues. I personally prefer to try to remain relevant.

4. Lamps, reflectors and electrical equipment - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) 4.5.1. Presence, condition and operation You only need to inspect: front fog lamps fitted to vehicles first used on or after 1 March 2018 the 1 rear fog lamp which must be fitted to the centre or offside of vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1980

That poster's engine ECU does have a permanent supply. 😉

You may not have read the link I posted, or confused me with Nige?

@Jamie1991 grab a helper to make it easy, then try this method: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495243-quick-and-dirty-parasitic-current-measurement/

Don't be worried, but don't expect it to do much either. Your engine ECU has no permanent power feed; so every time you take the keys out of the ignition it is unpowered just as much as if you disconnected the battery. Have you thought about looking at the misfire info that VCDS may be able to tell you about, as I mentioned upthread?

As with so many other things in car world, engine code should tell you the answer. Go to the link in my signature if you don't know how/where to find this. Scrutinising years 2008-2010 inclusive for Roomster, the only mention of particulate filters in the 'fuel, exhaust, cooling' area of ETKA is for engine codes BMS and BLS, of which the former is a 1.4l engine, the latter a 1.9. e.g. for 2009 fuel, exhaust, cooling Roomster (RO) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) I don't see any mentions of any alternative exhausts for BMS engines without particulate filter on the same page either, which seems conclusive. If the car has a BMS engine, it'll have a DPF, if not, it won't.

Unnecessary in the same way that having two lighthouses marking one headland would be.

@Mavver choose the side of the hill that the car will roll down forwards, i.e. the downslope. 🙂

Try cleaning the holder that the battery sits in. I had similar problems recently that turned out to just be a little corrosion at the contact points.

I can only repeat what I said on 18th October "Would need to know the last 8 numbers of the car's VIN to be sure (or you could check if they are in the range 54421760 - 64648255)"

There may be a plastic locking mechanism that stops contacts going inward or outward until it is moved aside. Only accessible with connector unplugged, probably. Sorry, I didn't think of that earlier.

@pixelovski Your engine uses (grey) coolant temperature sensor part number 06A 919 501A, same as all other mk1 Fabias. I would be tempted to just chuck a new one in to see if it changes matters.