Breezy_Pete

@drifter1949 are you familiar/well practiced at undoing the latches on these type of connectors? There's a 'knack' to it that's not completely obvious.

It's come to my attention that if your control unit has a part number ending in F, as found in some or all early mk2 Fabias, a different relay will be fitted, unlike the one in my photos. According to a couple of folk who have fixed their mk2s, expect to find an Omron G8NW-2U 12V DC fitted.

I missed this when posted. Glad you got it fixed @sti5300, and thanks for adding the info about the different relay. I shall add a bit to my 'wiper relay replacement' how-to accordingly.

Sorry, missed an important detail - With VCDS.

Touch/click on the three dots in the top right corner of the post you wish to report and you will see this option appear. (For the benefit of anyone unaware of such details.)

Info is probably available in a measuring block of the instrument cluster, module 17.

May well be some truth in that, but unfortunately that's just the sort of polarising thing that'll 'trigger' someone and cause this thread to descend into just what the OP was describing.

OP should check whether that little orange engine lights up in the instrument cluster at ignition on.

This may be of some relevance, depending on how you get on with the stalk. Removing plug from onboard power module - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA If you do have VCDS, you can probably observe the stalk inputs to the onboard supply control unit (Central electronics, module 09) in real time in measuring blocks rather than pulling the steering wheel off.

Do you have VCDS (Lite) and a suitable cable?

It's a good point from @J.R., ECUs themselves tend to be massively reliable, as long as moisture hasn't got into their connectors.

I think the diagram in the catalogue is a little off, as the switch appears to mount on the underside (or a jaunty 45° angle maybe) of the MC when you look at listings like this Датчик включения стопсигнала VAG 8P0698459B для Skoda Yeti 2009-2018 в Москве (euroauto.ru). It's a brake light switch though, no hydraulic connections to be seen. Brake Light Switch Škoda 5G0698459 (skoda-parts.com) A fella changing one on a LHD Golf here,

You need to have a Freedom membership to sell stuff on here. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

According to the parts catalogue, for an ASV engine built on or after 1st August 2003 the engine ECU will be part number 038 906 012 HC:

Think it's a hall effect sensor on the MC.

I think @Stewartasb may be correct.

See edit above for pinout info for shorting test.

(Dual) Relay is inside BCM. Short pins 3 and 4 of connector XP4 (with it still plugged in, just poke a conductor into the back of those two wire-entries). Wipers should start going at normal speed and not stop until you remove this short.

What year is the car? There may well be a relay involved, within the onboard supply control unit. Bypass this with a cunningly applied festive paperclip to test motor. I'll hunt down a recent thread with pinout details.

Using the blower at setting 4 draws a good deal of current; approx. 20 Amps. I once measured this and was surprised how much it really is. It may simply be that now you are able to use the lower speeds, you're putting less total average load on the electrical system, so the alternator is able to keep up? See if the improved situation persists. Your ##'s need refining by the way. 12.0 is a pretty low battery reading, but 12.6 is pretty good. 14.0V is a bit low for an alternator output but 14.4V is nice and will charge much faster.

No. 10 here? (view on computer, not phone to see all info) LLLParts

Sump plug removed after sucking out the oil at places that failed to read the "or" in the instructions...

Neat idea, thanks for sharing.

That's a new one! 🤣 I'm not overly convinced by OHME's story to be fair, if the charger is indeed outputting 7kW, and the car is only drawing 3.8, then 3.2 kW is mysteriously 'going missing' somewhere, which is improbable to say the least. What they probably mean to say is that they are unaware of any reason that 7kW should not be drawn from the wall box, if the impedance at the car end of the charging cable allowed that much current to flow. I'm very willing to believe that the car is the problem, rather than the wall box, but the explanation by OHME is not great.

Which manufacturer made them, and what are their part numbers?