Breezy_Pete

I think that 100mA drop in consumption when you hear the click maybe means the problem isn't anything to do with the interior light relay. There might still be a fault in the control unit, but several other units might be the cause too. I think, but don't know, that the parking aid control unit will be behind some trim in the trunk/boot area. That sounds like a good thing to disconnect to see if that alters the behaviour.

When you say voltage regulator, do you mean "vehicle voltage control module" as mentioned on that fuse diagram? If not, what? There is a voltage regulator within your alternator, which keeps the system voltage at about 14.5V as far as possible while the engine is running. If "vehicle voltage control module" is what you mean, it's the same thing that you are calling Comfort Module, and controls much of the equipment in and beyond the cabin, such as interior lighting, windscreen wipers, direction indicators, horn, etc. How are you measuring the parasitic drain through fuse 22? Current measurement with meter in place of fuse, or (mV) voltage measurement across the fuse with it in place? The latter is better as it doesn't require interruption of the circuit. It's normal for the interior light relay (inside Comfort module) to remain energised for some time (default 30 minutes I think?) even after the lights go off, so you need to measure the current after that 30 minutes. In my experience this still shuts off OK with the door open to allow access to the fusebox. Just don't close and then re-open the door. Have you replaced any bulbs in the cabin (or elsewhere) with LED types?

@GL0337, any luck?

1. Fix the servo pipe. 2. Move coilpacks between cylinders 1 and 3 (swap positions). 3. Drive for long enough to see either a) problems all gone and no codes come back, or b) misfires logged but now on cyl 1 - replace that one coilpack which was on cyl 3, now on 1, or c) misfires return on cyl 3. Time to compression test.

Diagnostic for ours, not his.

^ Interesting (though a tad depressing for the OP). The driver's side reg on ours made a loud noise a while back that the missus thought might be a problem; but it's been working OK since. I've been slow to investigate out in the cold, especially as it's a rivetted on assembly carrier, of course. I guess that noise was probably one of these plastic brackets giving way. Either the front half or the rear half of the window might be able to be jiggled up/down more easily by hand than the other half, if there's a broken runner, as a diagnostic?

Safer bet to get me to fix his original or send him an exchange pre-fixed one these days @Bertie90 (since I figured out how); and generally cheaper. They don't often come up that cheap, and most ebay sellers won't know how to test them thoroughly.

That's me. Thanks for the mention @gilroom.

Very good point xman. Have you owned the car from new @Raker?

Not familiar with Octy 2 systems but could try to have a look at some diagrams tomorrow and maybe come up with some suggestions. All Skoda wiring diagrams are available to download as massive pdf files via erWin Skoda. Can be downloaded comfortably within an hour with lots else, which would cost you 7 euros plus tax. I've explained on here many, many times how to get to these downloadable pdfs, e.g. here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491660-wiring-diagrams/?do=findComment&comment=5522236

Shaking my head in bewilderment at the diagnosis plus labour time.

I should think fitting might take getting on for 5 minutes...They sh/would probably do an adaptation of the engine ECU subsequently which would add another 3 minutes.

Part number is written along the hard plastic sections.

Interesting. Please let us know the outcome. Any other owners with CHZC-code (1.0 110bhp) engines in Fabias of similar age want to have a look at the throttle body part number on theirs?? I think it's easy to see on top surface, just near electrical connector, right @Raker?

Post some pics of the old plugs for interest, please.

Sounds very expensive. £20-30 ish I would've thought.

Erwin doesn't include parts info AFAIK.

I'd avoid such outlets based on their search engines often being as good (not!) as ECP's, and that they are Berlin based so returns of mis-supplied goods can be painful/expensive. Weirdly, the only reference I can see in ETKA to that part number you've found is on the CHYx series engines, so a double-check of your engine code would be good, e.g. see this page, item 8 LLLParts There may well be bad data in ETKA, of course. Other-weirdly is that when I just navigated a different way to that same part number on the LLL site, it's cheaper than when I looked earlier!: Volkswagen / Seat / Skoda Throttle Valve Control Element 04C133062D - LLLParts May be an idea to give them a bell and talk to a human. I suppose there's the faintest possibility that ETKA is right, your car should have the suffix-C part, and they mis-built a suffix-D onto it!

@Irishpitman77 maybe the above posts can assist you? I have (RHD) Roomster units ready to go as exchanges if you wanted to go down that route. Comment relates to this enquiry: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/501441-front-electric-window-issues-still/

Is the driver's side motor module one with 6Y1959801 part number? Was fuse 11 one of the ones you checked/replaced; if not do so.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/category/car-parts/search/04c133062d Still a mad price, but better than your dealer, if they honour it.

I had a browse of that linked, highlighted document but it's long and I'm tired. Everyone on the road is safest to assume that no-one else knows the rules and be suitably wary. Had to look up what a 'parallel crossing' might be. Don't think I've ever seen one.

And mine in recognition. Might be a Dxxx engine code though, in which case possibly different. @Raker are you still there?

I think it might be 04C133062C but without engine code it's tricky. Better price here if it is that one Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Throttle Valve Control Element 04C133062C - LLLParts

What part number is it and what number did they quote for?