Breezy_Pete

The ECU may well have survived, yes. What might have happened is the melting of wires to do with the shorted ignition coil may have damaged the bit of loom that carries the power to the oxygen sensors too, if they are bundled together at some point. Is that a photo of a secondhand loom off ebay or similar? Where are you based?

Photo? Sounds like you may need to replace the engine loom. 😢

Did you completely remove the lips on the inside surfaces of the drums while they were off? If not, do that, then slacken off the handbrake cable at the equaliser bar, then 'pre-adjust' the adjuster wedges on both sides until you can only just get each drum back on. That should get the adjustment about even on both sides. Can't be done while there's a lip.

Fuse 9 powers the heaters in the two oxygen sensors, which will be grounded by the ECU. Fuse 52 (not 54 that's left dipped beam headlamp) is the ignition coils' 12V supply, and also a switched 12V feed to the engine ECU. Is any of the wiring to the ignition coils visibly burnt?

I think the wiring is approx as follows, but without engine code I can't be sure. Pin 1 at connector - N/C switch connection to engine ECU Pin 2 earth to hall sender electronics Pin 3 N/O switch (the one that indirectly controls brake lights) connection to engine ECU or BCM depending on date made etc. Pin 4 (main relay) switched power feed from engine bay fuse 22 The two switches are shown as both being operated by the hall sensor electronics, like this:

Whilst unplugging and inspecting connectors, also look at the loom sections that go to each, hunting for possible wire abrasions on metalwork that they pass.

A wire (intermittently) shorting on some engine metalwork is my guess.

The grey/white wire going to pin 5 of the 28 way pillar connector is the one to repair for the window fault.

They'd certainly struggle to make them worse! But that (suffix HG) newer part may not have all the features you need, or it might, I don't know. Someone with an up-to-date legit copy of ETKA who might look up by your VIN number is your only hope really. How many wires are busted on yours?

Working back the other way from the HG part shows a few equivalents but not your number https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0971120hg-electrical-wiring-installation-bundle-for-door-35047.html

I find this site pretty useful for listing part number equivalences, in (often multiple) boxes to the right of where it says Skoda part number. No such alternatives shown for your number: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0971120bl-electrical-wiring-installation-bundle-for-diver-s-door-21827.html

Link? Please. 🙂 I ordered a cheap 6q1937049F from Lithuania yesterday, out of curiosity about the physical differences from earlier suffixes.

Sounds like a good garage. Where have you seen this stated? Does the car have a hardcopy service book? If so have a look in there to see what the various services at various milages consist of.

That oil could have come from absolutely anywhere on the engine, so don't assume sump gasket. A common fault on the 1.2 TSI is a broken off breather valve, see guide here: 1.2TSI Crankcase Breather Hose One Way Valve Replacement Guide - Skoda Rapid Guides - BRISKODA

The oil sensor connector may have been damaged so that it doesn't seal properly when mated to the sensor. Try pulling it off (gently) without disengaging the latch, and see if it just pulls off. Although oil itself is a good electrical insulator, engine oil loaded with contaminants like soot and moisture may be quite a good conductor, I guess.

Hmm, Can you show a photo of where this fuse is, and please confirm that we're talking about the 2010 Superb listed in your profile? Ah, just seen in one of your posts that it may be a 2016 car? That would make more sense of why you're in the mk3 Superb subforum? If so time to update profile. I have no info about such a recent car sadly. Agree with this, but it could be that "engine components" in the above list includes the level/temp sensor. Probably a coincidence that there is an oil leak and this fuse blowing though.

I have a feeling this relay will substitute OK for the G8NW-2U that seems to be fitted in the suffix F modules: G8NW-2L-ASDC12 Omron Electronics | Mouser United Kingdom The coil resistance is higher but that may not be an issue. Did you say you'd ordered a spare relay @26DIPP, if so was it an exact part number match (I've seen such on ebay from China)? Might buy a few anyway as there's something else I want to order from Mouser.

Simple, quick test to do before anything else: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/401778-battery-light-and-associated-problems/

Is this a 30 or 20 Amp fuse? If so it appears to be related to the ABS module, at first glance? What if anything can your owners manual tell you about this fuse?

At a guess, I'd say that it means, "this part number can be used to replace any of the following part numbers". I don't think the converse can be assumed.

I am near certain the QA was just clumsy fingers on keyboard. Ask the garage that fitted it to check what they bought.

@Tech1e would be the man to confirm, but I think the 6q2... versions are lower spec than the others. Will you have a go at relay swap in the original?

It's a bit of a minefield trying to work out what's what. Have a look at this page, on a computer rather than phone, and see how many different sensors are shown in the exhaust system: LLLParts If the one you need happens to be the first temperature sensor nearest the engine, first item 3 then it looks to be the same for both of the engine codes you mention, plus one or two others. The comment above that is telling though - Before parts order, physical inspection of old part necessary Before parts order, physical inspection of old part necessary

Ah, sorry, for some unknown reason I thought you meant DPF pressure sensor, which is generally viewable under the bonnet from above. Is it a temperature sensor you need instead? If so, which one, there's usually a few?

Can you not read the part number off the existing sensor?