Breezy_Pete

Not sure about the NCT, but for MOT I don't believe it's a fail if the windows don't work, just a matter of whether they open it for convenience of reaching in from outside while testing stuff, and then whether it goes back up again or not. Best of luck tomorrow, talking of smoke, any concerns about emissions?

There are a few connectors, but you probably don't need to undo them for a looksee. The effort-saving trick is to pull the rubber boot off the a-pillar with the white plastic frame it fits to. (I've failed to do this in the photo below). You do this by squeezing front and back vertical edges inwards; ideally simultaneously, but if that's not achievable, focus on getting the front (nearest front of car) edge free first, as then the rear (nearest back of car) edge is relatively accessible and easy. If the rubber boot comes away from that frame, be sure to get the frame out before refitting things, as it's much easier to refit boot to frame out of situ, rather than in situ. The frame has four catches, two each side, you can see one on the right side of this photo:

@prt57 I finally got round to sorting this on the Fabia, and this info from you was super-helpful, so thanks again. I initially bought a spare catch from ebay with the idea of researching replacement microswitches with the original catch on the bench, hoping the replacement catch would work at least for a while. I bought a suffix M part which turned out to be a mistake, as that appears to be a pared down version to suit a car without boot light; so no microswitch in the relevant position! Oops... 😆 Then I got to measuring the spot it fits in, and trying to figure out what would go there. Eventually settled on a DJ1G-AG29 which I ordered from Aliexpress. It fits, it appears to work, though I'll give it a few weeks in service before being really confident o fits reliability. It's even marked Cherry, but with slightly different other markings from the one you photographed upthread, and the one I've just found in the original latch, these new ones have A5 31 written on instead of the A4 27 on ours, and 4A 24 on yours. Can't get too excited about trying to work out what these mean, one pair of digits is probably a date-code. I lubed the cam that actuates it with a bit of grease, to help things along. It's really a straightforward repair; hardest part is getting the bloody boot trim panel back on right, that's just horrible with all those trim clips and not really able to see. Don't forget to pass the little fabric loop through the slot either, if you ever use it to pull the tailgate down. Anyhow, I'll 're-microswitch' the now spare original latch (6Y0 827 601H) and make it available to anyone who wants a fixed one, maybe with an exchange price option as I bought a few spare switches with that in mind. Have you kept your old one @prt57? I'd be glad to send you a microswitch FOC if you wanted it.

Check wiring in bellows between a-pillar and door.

Yep, that's all you should need to code in. Good price that.

Cool, well done. There is a relay inside which could be changed, but unless you're pretty handy with soldering/de-soldering it would be trickier than a module swap. Get one with exactly the same part number as you plan to (it doesn't really matter what car it was first used in), but before removing the old one do a scan of it with VCDS to read the coding. You're looking for something like "Coding: 25754" though the number may be different. I might actually have a spare of that part number, I could look for if you like.

Please confirm that you have checked or replaced fuse 4 (10 Amps). Not sure if when you say "I have power going into..." you mean on the specific relevant wire from this fuse. It's red/green and goes in on pin 4 of the same brown 6-way connector as the feed to the lights comes out of. Have you got standard interior light bulbs, not some LED replacements? The coding is trivial if you do need to replace it, but obviously it's good to check every other possibility first.

Heavy tint that won't pass test?

If you had a spare clamp do you reckon you could reattach it through the grommet hole? Or by making that hole bigger until you could? Or cut a hole lower down to retrieve the dropped bit through?

Yes, I think that's the right position. Can you not just push the new crimp/wire into that orifice? It should latch into the connector around the same time it mates with its opposite gender partner in the other half of the connector; I would think?

Part of the negative clamp, not battery, relax.

Any difference to the exhaust smell?

Must cost a fortune in fuel (to run the car all the time). No sleeping for you? 😁

The type in the photo appears to be 357972771 (e.g. 1 Pin Plug 357972771 for VW Audi Wiring Plug Sensor Connector | eBay), but that may not be what yours looks like.

Not sure, sorry. Photograph existing one both sides looking for part number when photo is blown up? That part number when put in ebay search returns stuff that looks different (to the photo you posted at least).

Yep, that's the wire of doom... Depinning the connector, soldering a suitably thick wire onto the crimp, refitting, then joining new and old wires robustly and waterproofing is the 'free' way to repair. Access is the challenge for the joining bit.

ASZ is what he meant, I think.

Disconnect the solenoid plug (thinnest wire going to starter) and give it a gentle pull before you go down the route of changing the starter, might save yourself an unnecessary job if the wire parts. Wire tends to break at the cable entry of the connector, but gets intermittent before it fully parts (due to high resistance connection with corroded strands). Also came across one recently on a Polo forum where it broke at the point that the single wire exits the loom, further from starter. For window motor ills, check A-pillar bellows wiring, fuse 11 if you didn't already, and possibly my signature links.

Does the car have DSG transmission? The thermostat associated with that seems to be a common fault, leading to low temperatures, I think. I personally wouldn't expect anything put in the fuel tank to make any improvement to a blocked DPF. Reviews may be written by manufacturer of snake-oil.

Not sure the viewing eyes are worth much to be honest. I'd expect the fuse tray to be quite easy to lift off enough with the two or three clips unlatched?

Ah, I see. You'd have to unclip and lift the fuse section away a bit to see.

Part number usually on top face, or does felt cover that too?

Is there a part number on the top of the original? One that matches one on this page (view on computer, not phone to be sure of seeing all info): fuse socket - Roomster(RO) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com)

3 pieces I think, 1st one from reservoir to engine side of firewall just near ABS module (under engine ECU). Pushfit connection there, most likely unfitted. 2nd piece runs from there to somewhere at the rear of the cabin on left (UK nearside); on hatchback it's just under the plastic trim that the left rear seatbelt sits on when unused. Same sort of pushfit connection, strapped in with wiring loom. 3rd piece from there to outlet. That's all based on hatchback experience, rear end stuff differs a little I think, as outlet is up with high level brake light I seem to remember (comes out of wiper spindle on hatchback). Strong screenwash required to prevent the expansion associated with freezing from popping these pushfits apart, at this time of year anyhoo.

@freddyuk you don't appear to have answered @ApertureS about how you measured the parasitic current? Did you just measure it once there may be an intermittent fault? Grab an assistant and try it this way, if it's not how you did previously https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495243-quick-and-dirty-parasitic-current-measurement/?tab=comments#comment-5557920