Breezy_Pete

Sorry, didn't see this post until now. I'll message you so you can reply to me with the complete number.

Well that should be easy enough to sort if it were to start leaking.

Consider getting one of the little LED-display voltmeters that plug into the accessory socket and give you a continuous readout of the battery voltage whilst on the move. Then you can get a feel for what the voltage ranges between and peaks at (probably on the over-run).

Fixed voltage charging is a thing of the past. All sorts of factors will influence the output voltage which the alternator is commanded to produce, so it's no longer straightforward to assess whether an alternator is underperforming or not.

I see what you mean. The single hose for ours seemed pricey at £35 or so inc. VAT. 😆 Is the hose at the back maybe the brake servo vac hose?

Ours is a 1.2 petrol. On the TDI diesels, the higher pressure stuff is only from tandem pump to injectors, I think, which is internal to head?

See photo and link added to my previous post just now, if you want to gamble on cheap generic fuel hose. If you'd like me to look up genuine part numbers (and prices) for your car, let me know the VIN.

Have they received comment at an MOT? As with rubber brake hoses, superficial damage may look dangerous, but if you look at a cross-section of the hose structure, there's an outer rubber layer, then some braiding reinforcement, then an inner rubber layer. It's this inner layer and the braid that provide all the strength and fluid containment. A few years back I changed engines on our Fabia. Had a leak from the original (175k old) hose to the fuel rail when reconnected, so I bought a length of suitably rated fuel hose 'by the meter' from GSF. A couple of years later I did have an MOT advisory* for it. This brand new hose had degraded incredibly fast. Ended up buying a genuine Skoda replacement instead. Edit: according to a previous post/pic on here, this was 18 months after purchase! *May have just been a verbal observation actually. I remember the tester saying he (privately on own vehicles) struggled and failed to find a supplier of hose that didn't go that way, lately.

Lots of rain during the day yesterday, then hard freeze last night. All five doors frozen shut this morning 😆. Luke warm water had to be poured around the perimeter of each to free them. Engine then wasn't very eager to start. Gummi pflege will be generously applied on Saturday.

I've been reading this forum for a fair few years now, and problems caused by blocked fuel filters on petrol engined cars are not something that ever seems to happen. Lots of people change them and cause themselves problems by fitting ones with wrongly rated pressure regulators, and some people cause leaks. Virtually no-one ever solves a problem by changing one.

Skoda have probably 'value engineered' the fuel pump to fail sooner than they did, so you'll get a new filter then. I just changed the one on our 2005 mk1 Fabia earlier this year at approx 212000 miles. I would imagine new ones for 2020 cars will not be designed to last that distance.

I don't think it was ever on a service schedule even when you could get to it.

I think the OP would have found it if it was fitted in the obvious place. 🙂

Opening the fuel tank on a petrol car is quite dangerous, and should only be done if absolutely essential. You are wise to not dare.

For a 2020 car, looks like last item 3 here, 6C0919051G: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts At 5 years old, unless you've done about 150k miles (~240k km) already, I'd forget about it.

Probably integrated with the fuel pump inside the tank. Why do you want to know?

Don't think there will be a MAF on this engine.

This hose.

The crankcase ventilation system is probably not working correctly. There's a test you can do to check one pathway. Find the thin rubber air hose that connects to the underside of the large air hose next to the airbox. Disconnect it so that you can check if there is any suction on it. Start the engine and let it run until the idle speed drops to normal, check with a fingertip if there is any suction.

The VIN will be the best start towards helping you with this. I'll start a private message conversation with you so that you don't have to put it on public view.

And I'll keep saying it as long as you keep posting those instructions, to avoid the understandable source of potential confusion.

Not forgetting the important "or" in the left hand column. Never did say suck oil out and remove drain plug.

If you pay a little money for a Freedom membership, you'll have a lot more if not unlimited capacity. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

Skoda don't sell it as a complete thing with motor, but as far as I can see, for RHD cars The motor is 5J2 955 113 A The main bit of the mechanism is 5J2 955 605 B Note the 3rd character is 2 for both of the above, not negotiable. The linkages are 5J0 955 325 for right hand side, 5J0 955 326 for left hand side (both as viewed from driving position).

A 5w30 or 0w30 meeting the 504 spec will be fine.