Breezy_Pete

PR code 9U1 also seems relevant, with wear sensor.

Front brake PR code for this car is 1LN. That should help disambiguate, I think.

Did the crank sensor come out without a struggle? Or are you not there yet?

No, in car.

Probably easier to take the intake manifold off to gain access from topside. On ours it wasn't helped by the white furry corrosion of the block's alloy, including down the hole that the crank sensor and crank locking pin go. Took ages to clean it out enough to get the pin fully in, even after manifold was out the way.

Are you sure it has power steering fluid? I'd have thought it would be electromechanical.

Wow, that was a bad blockage in the oil pick-up!

Typically, on earlier simpler models with A/C, the thermoswitch would only carry the relay coil current for each of the relays within fan control module (low and full speed) that drive the fan, so tends not to fail often at all. Thin wiring to it more likely to break/ fail than thermoswitch itself. Can't see any equivalent to this arrangement in citigo diagrams though. For non-A/C citigo it uses just one of its dual switches directly in series with rad fan 12V supply.

@MobileChicane I'm looking at wiring info for the fan control module, trying and failing to see how the radiator thermoswitch is involved on an A/C equipped Citigo of this vintage. You may find that either there physically isn't one, or that it isn't wired up. Not sure. Parts catalogue suggests it's there though.

Since the car has A/C, a quick and easy test of radiator fan operation is to run engine and demand minimum temperature with A/C switched on, bonnet open. That's assuming the A/C is actually operable/cooling successfully. At the sort of ambient temperatures we currently have, the radiator fan should start up at low speed within a pretty short time. Keep fingers away while waiting to see! I was just looking at wiring info, and the resistor for low speed fan operation appears not to be within the fan motor, but instead at a 3-way connector pair where 3 wires become 2. When the resistors were housed inside the fan motor assembly they were a bit infamous for failing, leaving only high speed operation thereafter.

Yes, the slots for the locking tools on the ends of the camshafts are not central. The locking tools only fit and are able to be screwed in properly when they're at the compression stroke TDC. Off the top of my head I can't recall if that's with slots horizontal and above centreline of camshaft, or below. A quick look at the actual or pics of the locking tools should reveal which it is.

No, it was in early 2021.

I would certainly expect radiator fan action in that case. May be able to offer fuse info tomorrow, but hopefully covered in owner's manual.

Is the 115 definitely coolant temperature rather than oil temperature?

One question that's puzzling me slightly. If the indicated temperature is 90, what makes you think the engine is overheating? Is there loss of coolant? Some external temperature measurement method?

Can you see how many wires go into the central (motor) part of the fan? 2, 3, more? If it's three, that would suggest it's the relatively simple two-speed fan design whose low speed may have failed, leaving just the full speed option. May need a phone camera operated 'blind' to investigate wiring, and definitely best attempted when engine is off and cold.

It varies, but the last one I bought was £290 delivered, with just 16k miles on it. Most will probably cost a bit more. 😁

I'll start a message exchange with you, you'll be able to reply. 🙂

Home now, so could look stuff up.

Fair enough. If you have any further trouble, it's probably not too hard to get to the source of these wires beyond the holes in body and tailgate, and replace the sections which go through the bellows, with splices in areas that don't flex when the tailgate is moved.

I'm not convinced that super-thick black wire is an original part of this car. Might be a 'this is all I had' repair bodge previously. Can you not take the tailgate trim off and see where it goes to?

Yes, probably the only temperature sensor, communicating initially with engine ECU, but then that data being shared to other modules like the dash panel. There is often a thermoswitch, in or near the radiator that controls the radiator fans, but gives no numerical temperature to any modules. I can look up more info about your car if you share reg or VIN. But not just now, about to be driving for a while.

Have you bought that part that you've shown on deutsche-parts.co.uk? Which part number did it match, the original -AN or the superseding -BA? The end fittings all look fairly straightforward to me, from what I can see, so probably a pretty easy fitment.

EGR operation actually tends to increase particulate emissions (which is measured at MOT; the only emissions measure for diesel cars), but it decreases nasty, poisonous NOx emissions (which isn't measured at MOT). Sounds like your car is emitting a whole lot more of something when EGR is active, so you're probably doing everyone a favour by temporarily disabling it; but yes, do it subtly, and don't whatever you do discuss illegal stuff on the internet! 😆 Get the fault diagnosed properly, then you should be able to re-instate the factory emissions set-up. White smoke on diesels is unburnt fuel, I think? That should be a clue, but I know next to nothing about diesels and what goes wrong with them.