Breezy_Pete

I've watched and enjoyed the first three already. Third one just now has finally motivated me to strip down the box that's been sitting outside my shed for a couple of years. Like the fella's attitude and delivery, is it you @AJR77?

It might be an option listed on the build data sticker on the boot floor. Can you post a photo of that sticker? The code may well start QN followed by a number. Handbooks tend to describe every option that might be fitted, usually with a * for non-standard items.

The engines I've looked at and linked you to on ETKA are CTHD and CTHE. Are you viewing this on a phone? Sometimes that results in some missing columns of information, important ones like the part codes!

If I'd known that technique on Friday when I did Polo's OSF I'd've just got the missis to sit on the front wing for a minute while I got some straps on it.

If you don't believe ETKA information about crankshafts and conrods being the same between CTHD and CTHE engines, I can't help you.

On those same two pages I linked above, the connecting rods are shown as the same part numbers too. So the same items. I did find an exhaust camshaft part number difference though, between CTHD and CTHE. I think what you've quoted there is talking about CAVE/CTHE differences. I think there should be a comma where the word 'of' is. " The modified version, CTHE "

If I look up CTHD for Golf and CTHE for Fabia I see the same part number for crankshaft (well, from Feb 2011 onwards in Fabia). Haven't checked any other parts, but someone else may be kind enough? crankshaft; conrod; bearings - Golf/Variant/4Motion(GOLF) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com) crankshaft; conrod; bearings - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com) My Czech reading skills are poor, but are you sure that isn't talking about differences between CAVE and CTHE engines?

Where did you read this?

Really... got a link to show your information source? Are you talking about the same Britoil as the OP? What Skoda do you drive?

I very rarely drink out of wineboxes actually. Portion size is a bit large... (Except on special occasions)

The 5W40 I bought recently came in same cube box with a 'winebox-like' thick plastic bladder inside it. Saves on plastic I guess. Haven't used it yet so can't comment on how easy it is to pour out of that arrangement, but when I looked inside I thought "that'll be OK".

Are there definitely physical component differences, not just software/mapping? If there were physical differences, you'd kinda expect that sticker to be specific and include the fourth letter of the code?

Here I think:

Quantum is a VW group owned spares brand, as I understand it, not an oil manufacturer. Quantum oil is currently manufactured by Fuchs, I believe. Used to be Castrol for a while if I remember rightly. It's good value from ebay, and obviously is approved to the various VW specs. I've used little else in the last five or so years.

Yep

Relay carrier below the e-box, apparently, position 1.

I think this is a good idea, yes. It will localise the problem to either the battery or a parasitic drain. Once it's clear whether or not the battery can hold a charge on its own, it'll be easier to find out what else may be going on. What I'd do is disconnect the battery from the car, just the earth lead will do, then put the charger on the battery for as long as it says it's doing something. Then disconnect the charger and wait a couple of hours. Now measure battery voltage (which should hopefully be around 12.6, but a little temperature dependent so note the ambient temperature during the measurement. If it gets nowhere near this voltage try applying the charger again, patience may be rewarded on this. You cna reverse some battery degradation with persistent charging. Wait a day or two and remeasure, or check it once a day over a few days. Anything to see if it's staying 'up' when not connected to the car. 14.1 is a little lower than optimal for charging from the alternator, so it may be worth cleaning up some earth connections while the battery negative is disconnected. Main engine to chassis one, both ends of, would be my first choice.

There's something very wrong with your voltage readings. Meter or operator, dunno which; try a new battery in the meter if it isn't recent.

Use vacuum extraction to remove oil via dipstick tube in future, or attempt thread repair, or change sump.

The designed function (legal requirement) isn't to remove a maintenance need, but to give a heads-up about an emergent, dangerous tyre deflation situation. As such it doesn't need to have accuracy with respect to actual tyre pressure. The wheel size and tyre size/width/aspect ratio/load rating/temperature will all have impacts on the relationship between rolling radius and tyre pressure, so the pressure change required to give a warning is fairly irrelevant. As with a lot of these mandated safety systems, over-reliance on them ("no need to check tyre pressures any more, the car looks after that for me") will be foolish.

There's some lockdown viewing! Thanks.

The car will charge the battery as and when it needs it, as long as it actually gets used. (Easily checked with a multimeter measuring volts across the battery, anything equal to or less than the 'off' voltage is clearly not charging the battery, anything higher clearly is). A member whose username escapes me just now did some logs of voltage and current on his car recently, and it was clear that the car varied the charging voltage according to how the battery was at the start of a journey, and how the system voltage behaved during the journey, as well as doing the high voltage charging 'spikes' during overrun etc.

Fingers crossed for you.

Have you tried giving that section surrounding the cluster a gentlish tug towards the steering wheel, from the bottom edge?

There aren't any sensors. It works by magic using the wheel speed sensors (ABS).