Breezy_Pete

The 10 minute operation followed by sleeping is what is supposed to happen after ignition is switched off, provided that doors sre kept shut. This suggests that that the 'ignition on' feed from fuse 11 to the black/blue wire on the smaller plug (assuming 6Y1959801 module part type) is not being correctly maintained for some reason. I wonder if the loom repair has crossed over a couple of similar-coloured wires? Measure this black/blue feed for 12V relative to the thick brown wire in the other connector with ignition on. Or bring the car to Highworth and I should be able to figure it out for you.

Yep Test with whatever you have available 🙂

Thick brown is earth. Thick red is permanent 12V. Blue/red will be a switched 12V, only there when engine on. Other wire will be control signal from engine ECU.

Very unlikely.

Check fuse 11 if you haven't already. Was the replacement window motor an exact part number match? (Listing photos?)

Excellent.

Yes, in a word.

I haven't swapped the better turbo in yet. Next month is my plan. I did log some data, but wasn't really sure what 'correct behaviour ' looks like. I'm fairly confident that a turbo that has done about 120 thousand miles less should be better.

Relay is on driver's side, I think, above accelerator pedal somewhere if RHD.

Did you find the relay? Could be sometimes sticking/welding its contacts.

Yes

Does the radiator fan come on shortly after switching on A/C and asking for cold air? [Try on driveway with bonnet open for visibility, but keep fingers well clear].

I don't think there is one. There is a heat exchanger on the back of the engine block that sometimes leaks on the BXW, I seem to remember. A search on keywords like BXW and coolant leak may find threads.

Just a reply, there is a 20 post qualification thing as an anti-spam measure before you can PM a member. You should be able to now.

Make one more post and you'll be able to message me with the VIN. I can tell you. Won't be instant though, I'm at the vets.

It never is, as far as I know.

Phone them with your VIN at hand and get them to work it out. If they can't, get a refund and go somewhere else!

You probably know this @kokosal , but the inner and outer pads are different, and can rattle if an outer pad is fitted in the inner/piston side. The retaining clips are different. I've marked on your image (you don't say which pad was from where) which are inners and which are outers. Check that you have correct outer pads on both sides, that should guarantee that there isn't a positioning mistake. Here's an image of mine showing the difference in clips:

No, it's just a plastic dust cap I think. I guess there's a screw-out bit behind it that lets the dryer cartridge be inserted during build of the condenser.

Can just about squeeze my arm down in here and feel that it has come off the bottom of the condenser dryer. Can't get it to screw back in, either way. Not sure if it has maybe sheared off from a longer plastic thread originally. Would be bumper off to get a proper look, and not sure it's worth it. Condenser was new last summer, and no way is that cap any sort of gas seal.

This is at the front, wondering about maybe off top of A/C dryer. Will have a look in a sec.

I was doing a brake service just now, and spotted something that looked out of place. Could have fallen to where it was found from within engine bay, I think. Might be just road debris that's flicked up and lodged there? It's plastic, has a very short screw thread on the back. Last photo shows where it was found just between arch liner and lowest point of red bumper plastic.

It's easy to spend quite a bit of effort and cash replacing suspension bits only to eventually notice that an exhaust heatshield has corroded off one or two of its fixings somewhere near the front.

You might be able to get the left strut out without disconnecting the driveshaft. Worth trying, maybe?

Borrow a 3/4" sq breaker bar and adaptor to 1/2". Or 3/4" socket too.