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Breezy_Pete

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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. Actually, I'm not sure those pictured part numbers are necessarily helpful, as they seem to be just casting part numbers for that half of the gearbox case, rather than part number of the whole complete gearbox. So there may be overlap between casting numbers and different gearbox codes. Better to go by code.
  2. This listing shows a cross-reference between the part number in your listing and gearbox code GRZ, which is used on 1.4-engined cars rather than 1.2. So it'll physically fit, I think, but the ratios may be non-ideal. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-POLO-GEARBOX-5-SPEED-MANUAL-1-4-PETROL-CODE-GRZ/333150379704?hash=item4d914f5eb8:g:R2sAAOSw3gJZHuvQ
  3. Ask the seller if he/she can find the equivalent code on the sticker of the vehicle that's come out of. It might be an idea to ask what year that's from and the mileage on that car's odometer, while you're at it.
  4. Yes, I believe they are. And that makes me realise another difference between the hub carrier parts that suit 256mm and 239mm brake set-ups. The suffix-AC and -AG & -T parts here respectively: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2010-608/4/407-407011/ On 239mm set-up there are actual bolts holding the calipers on, through steel 'guide sleeves', and those bolts - items 4 &5 - are M8 (6mm hex bit to undo). https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2010-608/6/615-615015/ On 256mm there are guide pins - items 2, 3 - instead, which are the ones with the M9 thread (7mm hex bit to undo): https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2010-608/6/615-615016/ So the threads will be M9 on the -AC hub carriers and M8 on the -AG & -T, as well as the pad carrier bits being a bit further out on the 256mm. Anyone know what the difference is between 1LB and 1LM 239mm brake PR codes?
  5. Not sure if we were ever talking about the front bush, as labelled here?, but I think we're now referring to the front bolt, here? As I mentioned (on Oct 8th above) as the source of trouble for the next removal if bolts are reused. Note: this is a left (UK Nearside) wishbone and the front of the car would be at the left of the picture, rear of the car to the right.
  6. ^ There is no problem. Crankcase pressure is slightly below atmospheric when the PCV system is working correctly.
  7. A rear (front) wishbone)?
  8. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation system connects crankcase to intake via a valve on the back of the block. The outlet of the valve connects just below the throttle body into the inlet manifold. (A convoluted plastic hose) The valve cover connection is a very narrow bore so only lets a small amount of air in relative to the oil cap opening.
  9. Depends on whether the 1.2 had 256mm disc brakes, like yours I expect, or 239mm in which case no good. Various options exist for the repairing those threads. I think a fella called @mrgf explored this territory fairly recently and successfully.
  10. Yeah, so get a fuse part number N 10424905 in position 2 and move the cable plus nut across from position 3.
  11. Hmm, not too clear but it looks like you may be able to fit a single fuse in that vacant spot, second from the top in your pic, then move the wire from the failed fuse onto there. Various different values available as item 37: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/citigo/cit/2014-727/9/937-937000/ Which one has gone?
  12. I'll have a look at the parts catalogue in a sec, but I have a nasty feeling that the answer is you don't, you have to replace that whole thing. Unless...which one has failed and does it happen to be the same fuse value as the unused end one at bottom of shot?
  13. What if your next wife wants children though? Or the one after that?
  14. Date of manufacture of the car or the engine? A dealer should be able to tell you the former. For the latter, there may be a date on the upper cambelt cover data sticker?
  15. Just to clarify, when you say "take it to the dealer" do you mean drive it? I don't think you should do that, for your own safety and that of other road users. Phone and get them to collect the vehicle.
  16. What/which do you mean by 'rear consol bolt'? The only bolts that need releasing to remove the wishbone are the balljoint M8 trio and the front M12 horizontal bolt that goes through subframe, wishbone front bush and then into the console.
  17. Hmm, OK. Is it loud screech like you get when you go to leave the car without having turned off the lights?
  18. I tried to get my missus to consider a Roomy recently to replace the now 15 year old Fabia. She has to carry a fair bit of kit around for work, which packs out the Fabia, but would be much easier in a Roomster. I think if I had cocked up the recent engine/clutch work we may well have gone down that route. (And one of the prime selection criteria for the Fabia was "I really like that red colour" so...). Sorry to bother you again @Tech1e, but if the overlap between Mk1 and Mk2 Fabias' central electrics control units goes to MY10, does that mean VCDS Lite and third-party cables will work on those cars? I guess you've never had to work with with such downmarket tools though?! Any early Mk2 owners tried that diagnostic kit with success?
  19. Centralise the indicator stalk and see if it goes away.
  20. Have a look at what colour wires you have going to the offside cluster. On earlier versions (all I have wiring info for) the wire colour to the reversing light bulbs is black/blue on both sides. So if there is a black/blue on the offside there probably should be a working bulb there.
  21. I don't share your confidence in that. Sounds a bit like those vague statements about how "a huge breakthrough in battery technology is just around the corner". Electric heating is already - and always has been - 100% efficient, and I imagine electric A/C systems are pretty close to 'as good as it gets'. Fundamental physics/thermodynamics limitations get right in the way of "I'm sure we'll see more and more efficient..."
  22. I was thinking there might be a part-number sticker visible without much or any disassembly, if you're lucky. What year car, which engine type (or ideally code), climatic or climatronic A/C?
  23. Has the operation of the coolant pump been established as being OK? (Forgive me please for not going back right through this thread to see if this has been discussed)..

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