Breezy_Pete

I can see its value as a distinctive marker, but in this case I think a little dribble of water in to the hole in front of the fuel filler cap would be decisive enough. Your story reminds me of a yachting 'fail' from many years ago. The owner/skipper (not me!) was concerned about bilge water arriving without explanation in the fairly new-to-him cruiser-racer that we'd taken down to the med in a staged race, stopping at various fun ports along the way. Had it taken out of the water at some mediterranean port and insisted that the stern gland get replaced as it was all he could think of, even though the boatyard said it was fine. Spent a fair bit on the job cause he was in a hurry and then asked us crew to give it a washdown and polish while it was still out of the water... Shortly after washing the decks, water was found in the bilges once more. Turns out that for reasons unknown some of the deck drainage went into the frickin boat instead of out of it. Simply not clever.

Why milk not just water?

Fit correct fuse, drive a few yards/metres and the lights will go out.

That'll be why you're getting that warning! 40A stripfuse needed there in position 6. No idea what your garage were up to*. Halfords do a selection pack of appropriate ones, I believe. *do you know/trust them? Could be deliberate?

Exactly that, I think.

It'll be the first of those numbers, and yes, superseded as shown here: https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/1t0413031hl.html#replacements

6th from left (looking from in front of car into engine bay). 1st from right of the strip fuses. Don't trust garage; check, measure, photograph. Never seen that fault code not be the strip fuse. In this circumstance they don't 'blow', they crack, sometimes almost invisibly, so if they did replace a blown/melted one, it probably wasn't the ABS one.

No, try the 6th one. Take a well lit, sharply focussed photo of it.

Remove any/all screws securing it to any part of the engine and then pull, probably rather hard. If you can tell me your engine code I may be able to find an image that'll help.

Cam belts are often on a time or mileage schedule (whichever comes first), so probably done on age previously. Not sure that 'load' in this fault code is the same as that relating to alternator DFM wire. Think it's engine load instead.

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/9/915-915000/

One of your photos shows the part number of the tray, starting with 5Z0, which appears to be incorrect for your engine code. The number you quote seems right for BMD, 6Q0915331D. Not sure which other bits, maybe you don't need any others? Is the fuse carrying part physically broken also? There will be a part number printed somewhere on that, see what you find.

The battery tray has been destroyed. It is supposed to fix down in three places, yours has at least two fixing points torn out. The drain is to direct any acid that comes out of a leaking battery onto the ground, via a rubber hose, instead of onto metal parts. Maxidot is a rare fitment, most mk1 Fabias are just like yours, warning lights only in that area. Radiator thermoswitch brings the fan on at a coolant temperature of 96 or 98, can't remember exactly.

Hmm, that sounds like very useful information, thanks @Tech1e. Been chasing a clunk on the LHS of ours for ages now, never thought of this item.

For some reason, I find that you have to loosen the clutch bleed screw a lot further than a typical brake caliper one before any fluid starts to flow.

Tube will be detachable, yes; and I doubt you would need to drain any oil to do so.

Have you changed the engine air filter since acquiring the car? Is there any history of cambelt change ever? It would at least be worth getting VCDS lite (free download from Ross-tech) and a suitable cable interface (<£20). That would probably give you more and better fault info, and potentially, with a 99USD upgrade to 'registered' status, the ability to do things like throttle body adaptation, amongst many other things.

Drive it normally, rather than 'I'm in a big hurry' and you will do no harm at all. Worse to leave it idling, waiting for it to warm up.

Drive it 20 seconds after starting it.

I seem to remember genuine nuts of that part number take a 22 mm spanner, but most aftermarket ones supplied with shocks tend to be 21mm (or it might be the other way round!). @Franky89 have you done this job before? Do you know the shocks to be in good condition or recent? Checked the springs for missing bits at top or bottom?

Yeah, the mounts don't come with nuts, it's new shocks that tend to.

People are generally replacing shocks and/or springs if they go into that area on cars of this age (unless previously replaced) and the new non-genuine shocks generally come with nuts, but I guess you are meaning item 5 here?: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2008-608/4/411-411000/ N 10401801 I'm sure lots of people do re-use them without disaster following, but it's not recommended.

Are you sure? These look decidedly non-electronic to me: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2001-225/1/130-130070/

Does that visible Torx-head screw release the connector/bulb mount? If so you might be able to graft in a non-damaged one from a scrapyard car.

I think if it is definitely a 1.4l petrol it is belt driven. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/roomster/ro/2006-481/1/ Can see 1.2s and 1.6s with chains, but not 1.4s.