Breezy_Pete

Yeah, I've seen a couple of those too. Great service to other owners really.

Resistance/Ohms, lowest range. Black meter probe on batt negative post, other probe on each pin of loom connector in turn. Hope to see a very low number for a healthy glowplug.

If you unplug the connector from the module you should be able to measure from each of the 4 relevant pins to get a resistance reading (to chassis/batt-neg) for each plug. That's where I'd start, as it may simply be that you have a number of duff glow plugs. The wire colours coming away from the 4 pins are all black/purple according to the diagrams, and the pins may be numbered 4/G4, 3/G3 etc. Also check strip fuse number 6 over the battery.

Part number of the genuine earth cable for your car appears to be 6Q0 971 235B. This will be very expensive new, but may well be very affordable secondhand on ebay etc.

I would strongly advise you to get this repaired better before doing anything much else. This looks like a very, very amateur repair, and will not be doing the electrical/charging system of this car any favours at all.

Some interesting questions there. I expect the guide rails are indeed faced with a PTFE-like material. They do still wear though, I changed the chain and associated hardware on our 1.2 HTP mk1 Fabia this summer, and there was wear on all of these plastics. Wear on the guide rail on the driven/taught side of the chain seems most relevant as that probably has more impact on the crank/cam timing correlation than the actual elongation of the chain. Having said that, the simplex chain on our car seems much more likely to carve channels as there are only two contact points, compared with several on your 'fancier' chain which will load any given point/line on the plastic less. I don't seem to have a photo of the wear on that rail to hand, but here are some channels carved at the point directly opposite the tensioner, on the other rail; probably the highest side loading point. Less significant for cam/crank timing I think Do you have access to VCDS? I came across some measuring blocks that tell you something about cam/crank correlation, and give permissible value ranges.. I took some data from these before the chain kit change, and the numbers were towards the top end of these ranges, from memory. I've yet to repeat to see if things are now different. 3rd and 4th field of measuring block 12 are specified respectively thus: No. of the crankshaft gear for camshaft pressure change low - high 11) 85…91 No. of the crankshaft gear for camshaft pressure change high - low 11) 25…31 Note 11 is defined as: "If the value is outside the tolerance and if fault 16725 or 17748 has been stored in the fault memory, the voltage [sic] of the timing chain must be checked (on engines with high mileage)." I have no idea what those numbers mean in real physical terms. The chain at 175000 miles had very, very little elongation compared with the new: However, when trying to insert the crank locking pin with the cam locking ones already in, it wasn't possible with the chain on, and probing about with an Allen key instead of the locking tool suggested that the slot in the flywheel it's supposed to engage in was about 4 or 5mm advanced relative to where it needed to be for the tool to fit. That's not necessarily much of an angular error though, as the crank sensor position is towards the outer edge of the flywheel (I've not done the sums on that). I've always tended towards genuine oil filters, as they don't cost significantly more in the grand scheme of things. With the low annual mileage you do, presumably a good proportion of that is rather short journeys? How short?

You're welcome. Please let us know what you find. Why are you doing the test, just for interest, or as part of a fault finding investigation?

Did you remove the hubs in order to replace the shoes? Maybe try swapping the drums side to side and see if the fault follows the drum or stays on the same side?

That's how I read it, yes.

It will be absolutely fine.

OK, well to the best of my knowledge there are two quite different approaches possible within erWin. Under the 'Vehicle specific information' tab, you can input your VIN, get the car data for your car (as a pdf download) and look up pretty much any info specifically about your particular car. But apart from the car data, most of that info is only available in viewable or printable form, page by page. Even with print to pdf, this can make large-scale data gathering time-consuming and thus expensive. You can also view TPIs in this area. On the other hand, under the 'Individual vehicle information' tab you can download everything you can see as pdfs. This includes the Self Study Programmes as well as everything available maintenance/repair/circuit diagram-wise but for models (e.g. mk1 Fabia) as opposed to info tailored/filtered for your specific vehicle. Obviously, given a good bandwidth connection this allows downloading and saving of a hell of a lot more info per hour of 'flat rate' paid. In fact I don't think I've ever timed out of the hour (7 Euros plus tax) before I've run out of ideas as to what I want to download next. I guess the best approach is probably to start in the latter area, download everything that looks useful or interesting, then pop into the vehicle-specific area to see what additional, more targeted info you can glean/save/print there.

Output connection of compressor also leaking a fair bit, I've just discovered, from below. As luck would have it, the three points identified so far all use the same o-ring 8e0260749, of which I have four.

What information are you trying to get?

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/brake_systems/abs_adr_tcs_edl_esp/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_esp/removing_and_installing_sensor_unit_for_espg419/

I think it would have to be. The sensor on the rack is only turn rate, not turn 'amount'.

I'm looking for a member somewhere within (say) 70 mile radius of Abingdon, Oxfordshire with the facilities and knowledge to legally empty an A/C system; then recharge it a little while later. (After I've had a little time to change a couple of O-rings). I could've sworn someone up Birmingham(?) way mentioned reasonably recently that they'd acquired such a machine but I can't remember who it was, or which thread it was where it was mentioned. Can anyone else remember or point me in the right direction? System is in a 2005 Mk1 Fabia that has been recharged only twice in its lifetime to the best of my knowledge. Once about 8 years ago shortly after acquiring the vehicle, when the mobile fella said he thought it quite possible it had never been done before, then again approx. 18 months ago at a local tyre/exhaust place. Neither time was any comment made about leaks, and both times it performed very well afterwards. The first time, dye was added. At the same time as a major engine refurb last month, the system stopped working to any significant degree; though I had noticed it getting noisy at switch on and switch off which tends to go with reduced pressures in my limited experience. Hasn't been long enough since the last recharge for this to be simply 'normal' leakage. I initially thought I'd spotted a candidate leak at the top connection to the condenser, as the pipework leading away from the joint looked a little damp/grubby. Last night I had a go with a UV torch and think I've seen a much more significant leak at the joint where the high pressure line meets the expansion valve. I'm thinking the green tint is the dye. I'm reluctant to go to a garage, as I think I'll end up getting stung for two aircon 'visits' once to discharge the system, then again to refill, on the basis that they won't be able to do it all in one go if I'm tinkering with O-rings part way through the process.

This is what I can find: Compression pressures: New: 10…15 bar. Wear limit: 7 bar. Maximum permissible difference between all cylinders: 3 bar What figures have you seen, or have you not done the test yet?

Yep. That page I linked shows it for 2008 RHD Fabia. Except you typed it wrongly. 6Q2 901 129. You snuck an extra zero in there.

I posted the part number about an hour ago.

Photos would help, but first, is that three or four wires you're describing? If three, is it brown/blue, or blue/red that you mean? According to the wiring diagrams I'm looking at the steering angle sensor has three wires, a black, a brown and a green. Coming from pins 1, 2 & 3 respectively at the pump/module. This is a picture of the three connectors at the pump (on a 9N Polo but should be much the same) you can see the angle sensor cable going off on its own. Which driveshaft broke?!

Isn't it a separate loom for the angle sensor? Part 18B here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2008-608/4/423-423040/#18B 6Q2901129 for RHD cars.

Might be worth a look on here @ejstubbs; to see if there's any internal info about this issue in the testers community. https://forums.motester.co.uk/ You don't have to be an MOT tester to post on there. Relevant section of the test manual is here: section 4.10. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment

Look at 5L0798116; no idea if it's right.

Please let us know the outcome, hope it goes well.

Doors not opening from the outside after 'intervention' can be simply down to the little 'stepped peg' that links handle to lock going back in the wrong position. I'll add a photo later if it's not obvious what I'm referring to.